- Road 1x crankset options
Since I need to change the chainrings on my commuter/pit bike, I’ve persuaded myself it won’t be that much more expensive to put the crankset off my good cx bike on my commuter and then buy a 1by specific crankset for my main cx bike (this is, of course, a total fallacy).
what 1by road crankset options are there beyond SRAM? I can’t find anything else. i’m pretty sure a mtb one would have a wider q-factor, tend to come with too small rings and might have the wrong chainline.Posted 1 year ago
Some cheap square taper stuff, Shimano Metrea (not narrow wide), and much more expensive options like Rotor or Praxis Works.
Yup, MTB cranks will have wider Q factor since they were designed for 73mm BB shells (if we are talking about threaded stuff), and they will usually come with a 32T max chainring. For example for SRAM you can get a 38T direct mount but you will have to buy it separately. If you get a non boost option I think the chain line might be okay. But, I don’t see the point.
Or you could get some kind of Shimano double and convert it with an aftermarket ring like Wolftooth.
I would just go with SRAM. I have Rival 1 and it’s great. You can read some bad stuff about GXP but I haven’t had a problem yet and I love how easy it is to remove or install the cranks.Posted 1 year agojoemmoMember
I’ve been using a SRAM apex chainset as 1x with a NW ring on the outer position for 3 years now, the chainline to the big sprocket isn’t ideal but works fine. After a couple of crappy GXP BB experiences the ones I have now have been OK and you can actually clean & service the bearings yourself if you can be bothered.
The other advantage of SRAM chainsets is that they have conventional spider designs so aftermarket chainrings look better on them – can’t say that for Shimano.Posted 1 year agoTiRedMember
Anything with an Absolute Black narrow wide chainring in either 110 or 130 BCD. I’m running SRAM Red Carbon with a 38T 130 BCD (smallest size that fits this BCD) on my cross bike that also runs on the road. I agree that the symmetric rings look better, but AB do Shimano wonky options too.
I quite like the Rotor Q rings, but you’ll need a chain guide or FD for those – as I found on my TT bike after dropping th chain four times! The K-Edge chain guide is very nice, but not cheap (about three times the price of a used FD!)Posted 1 year ago
The new Apex 1 has asymmetric arms, not sure what’s compatible with it other than it’s own chainrings. I know there are aftermarket asymmetric Shimano chainrings but i’m not sure if they would work with the Apex.
The Rival 1 is regular 5 arm and you can also use direct mount chainrings on the Rival 1.Posted 1 year agoon and onSubscriber
I have three force cx1 cranks running a mix of direct mount and 5-bolt ( depending on the bike )
oldest is about 4.5 years old and is holding up well. I went bb30 crank with a rotor British standard B.B. the oldest has over 7,000 miles on it now – original B.B. bearings.Posted 1 year agoswanny853Subscriber
I was in pretty much the same situation.
Ended up with SRAM because
-widely available direct mount rings
-reasonable aftermarket bottom bracket availability (I wanted a thread together for a press fit shell)
-spider has normal bolt spacing
I wanted Force but couldn’t stomach the price and ended up with Rival.Posted 1 year ago
Cheers, rotor and praxis are out of budget. It will either be apex/rival1 or getting a lighter secondhand shimano crankset and an aftermarket ring. The engineer in me says SRAM as being built for purpose, but then my experience of gxp bb’s has been horrific and I can’t see one lasting a cross season.Posted 1 year ago
Come to the conclusion I can’t justify a new sram crankset so will jsut go for a hope retainer on existing double crankset.
For those that have done this, what the thought on the general suitability of the chainline and is it better fit on inner or outer ring position? I’d think inner assuming the ring isnt too close to chainstay?Posted 1 year agopartyboy1101Member
If you want to run 40t or smaller then an MTB chainset would work fine, I wouldn’t worry too much about Q factor unless you ride for Team Sky.
I run a 40t oval on an SLX chainset with 11-46 cassette on my gtavel bike and have loads of gear range, I dare say you won’t need that much on a CX.Posted 1 year agothisisnotaspoonSubscriber
Come on SRAM, release DUB and 1×12 for road stuff already.
Given the problems the 3T team bikes have had with 1×11 I suspect that it’s probably dead in the water for a generation (of bikes/groupsets, not people). There are drawings out there for an XD-road freehub though, like a normal XD but longer as 11s freehubs are long on road bikes than MTB’s, so no doubt 10t sprockets are coming.
Be interesting to see if that results in a corresponding drop in chainring sizes, I imagine knocking 10% off the chainrings diameter and >5% off the weight would be seen as an improvement.Posted 1 year agozilog6128Subscriber
There are drawings out there for an XD-road freehub though, like a normal XD but longer as 11s freehubs are long on road bikes than MTB’s, so no doubt 10t sprockets are coming.
Is there some boring technical reason why you can’t just make a road cassette for use with a normal XD driver?Posted 1 year ago
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