Riding Rigid – Any tips?
Fat tyres obviously!
Other than that, raising the front end might help, making it easier for you to klift the wheel over stuff.
I used to race downhill on rigid forks, obviously i was last man down every time, assuming i made it down. I took every measure i could short of surgery to reduce arm pump, skinny grips, brake levers close to the bars and wide bars. I still came last every time, but enjoyed it.Posted 8 years agojackalMember
Line choice becomes a bit more crucial.Posted 8 years ago
Fit some decent riser bars, maybe bigger tyres.
Don't keep as much weight over the front as you haven't got the sus there to plough through it for you.
Oh and 'try' and be smooth.
stick with it you'll be a better rider for it.
I started out a cheap-ish HT which was fine, did the job. After a couple of years I upgraded to a titanium bike which was fully rigid (with titanium forks). First race I did I was pre-riding the course and crashing down a rocky descent, bike bouncing horribly at every rock, me with brakes full on wondering why my amazing new bike was so rubbish!
Then I realised that if I did the counter-intuitive thing of letting the brakes off, I was much faster and smoother.
It takes a lot of learning but you do soon pick up at least the basic technique of it and it makes you a much better rider when you get back to front or full suspension.Posted 8 years agojonathanSubscriber
The current fork is steal, would swapping to a carbon rigid fork make much difference?
Not necessarily – some steel forks are stiff, and some are more forgiving. And the same goes for carbon forks really.
My top 3 tips are:
1. Big tyresPosted 8 years ago
3. Keep steering at all timesKevaMember
you just have to 'ride' the bike alot more and look more carefully where the front wheel is going. Lift up to go over stuff, find little gaps inbetween obstacles to steer through etc. It's more work that's all. I can ride rigid at pretty much the same speed just end up a bit more knackered at the end.
KevPosted 8 years agoAdamMMember
Comments above have covered the on-the-bike stuff, but it will also help if you do some off-the-bike strengthening exercises to build up your arms. The stronger your arms are (forearms in particular) the easier it will be to grip the bars, reducing arm pump, etc and making riding rigid more comfortable.Posted 8 years ago
Just got a Kona Unit 2-9 29er rigid after riding a 26" converted single speed with a suspension fork for the last 12 months. I said I would try riding rigid for a while to see if I can get used to it but struggling a bit, any one got any tips other than to stick a suspension fork on it?
Can generally ride everything I would on a suspension fork just a hell of a lot slower, is it just a matter of time and getting used to it?Posted 8 years agohazeiiMember
A carbon fork will definitely save you a bit; same as anything flexy on the front end will (suspension forks, big low pressure tyres, wide twangy and/or carbon bars etc – the 29" wheeel will already be helping).
But to my way of thinking, the main thing is to read the trail ahead; nothing like a seriously stiff front end to act as an incentive to this!Posted 8 years agoTi29erMember
You've made 2x huge changes in one go.
It's taken me most of the year to get the best from a move to 29ers.
I can't believe the difference it's made to evey ride.
But I tried a CF rigid front end and saw no benefit what so ever.
Then I asked myself: Why run rigid forks?
Now have an 80mm Fox front end from eBay and it's a delight on every ride.
Ditch the rigid forks, they'll give your body a work out / pounding you simply don't benefit from in any way, you'll be slower on anything rocky or gnarly or bumpy in fact anything XC (!), your shoulders, hands, wrists, chest will not thank you at all for the pounding you'll be receiveing.
Unless you ride very smooth trails then get them on eBay asap and do yourself a favour!
ps – I only spent one day, 6hrs, with rigid forks on a magazine shoot and never again. On the 2nd shoot we were shod with suspension on the front end, and that's all the experience I have as such.
But welcome the world of 29ers – prepared to be re-engaged by mountain biking as you'd hardly credit it! Every ride, every trail is like riding it anew. The other tip is RRalf 2.25's a revelation, huge, and they look clown-esque I agree, but brilliant.Posted 8 years agoCountZeroMember
Ignore those harping on about not keeping the bike rigid. Get some carbon forks and bars, they'll damp out the high-frequency buzz that numbs your hands, plus making the front nice and light for lifting over stuff. I have a rigid singlespeed with O-O carbon forks and carbon bars that I've been riding for a couple of years, preceeded by a converted Handjob with steel rigid forks and the same bars, and the difference is significant. And I do ride suspension as well, a hardtail with 160mm forks, and a Remedy 66 with 145mm Nixons, and the rigid SS is the bike I'd keep if I could only have one. I'd prefer 650b wheels, but I don't think the Inbred frame will accept them, tho' the forks will. Give it some time, use nice fat tyres, like 2.3's, well padded gloves and some thicker grips, like ODI Mushrooms, or the Rogues. The wagon-wheels will certainly help rolling over rocky stuff.Posted 8 years agoSinglespeedpunkMember
I would say that a WTB Stout 2.3 at low pressure is a great help. Line choice becomes more critical and being able to ride light on the bike help. I have my bikes (both rigid 29ers) set up so I am "draped over the bike" in a relaxed position…don't go for the head down XC race position or the DH all the weight on the saddle set ups.
SSPPosted 8 years agoplumberMember
I first bought on of the on one invreds at 299 for a laugh – ended up really enjoying it
Then bought one on the 853 limited edition SS inbreds and on one carbon forks – blinged it with a bit of hope and CK – it is the bike I ride most because it is the most fun, I even ride it the most since my move to Canadia – I hope it will be with me for a long time to come
Ride fast – I have 2.1 trailrakers at 40 pps – not problem at all
PlumPosted 8 years agoepicsteveMember
Just back from riding the same trails on my rigid Inbred tonight as I did on the Soul with suspension forks last night.
The main difference I find is that I need to be more precise with the placing of the front wheel with the rigid bike, and in particular make sure that any obstacles are hit straight on.
My Inbred has quite narrow tyres (Fire XC Pro 1.8's) on but I prefer it like that.Posted 8 years ago
Here's the biggest rigid fork secret: *whispers* It's actually not that hard, but everyone will think you're hard/mad for doing it. *whispers*
I should probably try a bike with a suspension fork at some point, but I've survived the last 16 years or so with rigid forks so I don't really see the need.Posted 8 years agothe_flying_scotsmanMember
I rode a fully rigid SS for years. Granted, it did have a titanium fork which smoothed out a little of the trail buzz. You learn to ride a little differently; picking the right line becomes much more important, but you'll learn fast. Steering is very, very precise, the bike goes exactly where you point it. As for being slower, I tend to disagree – A few of my mates who ride full bouncers have found out that rigid can be at least as fast.Posted 8 years ago
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