Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • Reverb Stealth has dumped it's oil!
  • strike
    Free Member

    After noticing my Reverb Stealth has been sagging a bit over the past couple of rides and not returning as sharply, I removed it to find oil coming out from the bottom (not via the hose connector – but around the circlip).

    Can I repair this myself by getting a full rebuild kit?

    Is there a specific rebuild kit (it’s a 2013 Reverb Stealth 150mm)? I’ve seen a service kit labeled ‘Reverb Stealth A2’ – I’m assuming this will work?

    Thanks-in-advance

    BoardinBob
    Full Member

    Just send it for a service. The service kit is expensive enough, plus the additional special tools needed, to justify letting tf, loco, flotec etc do it. Flotec will do it for £50

    strike
    Free Member

    If it’s the correct kit (looks to be), Bike-Discount.de have the full rebuild kit for around £22, plus I actually like working on my own kit! I have stripped down my Reverb before, so have the tools required. However, thanks for the tip.

    muddy9mtb
    Full Member

    whats that a reverb going wrong? hmmm that doesn’t sound at all like a “reverb” 😯 (just had mine back returned under warranty) aka sarcasm.
    When did you buy this, there is a 2 year warranty on sram stuff so hopefully you can take it to a lbs and they can return it for you. Personally I wouldn’t bother repairing it myself…have you seen the 4 part service guide supplied by sram on youtube (….no way….) [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxgUK3gC_Fk[/video]

    that’s 4 PARTS! and has many, many tools…

    strike
    Free Member

    4months out of the 2 year warranty but in that time I’ve had NO issues. When I stripped mine down last year, I followed the .pdf file and the only ‘special’ tool I had to source was an oil height tool.

    warpcow
    Free Member

    Also being fairly intimately acquainted with the insides of a Reverb, I reckon it shouldn’t be a problem to fix it with a full service. It’s either going to be the IFP or the plunger itself, and the inner seal head. Maybe a bit of all three, but it’s really just o-rings and maybe a glide-ring or two.

    Those 4 videos take up a massive amount of time explaining how not to be an idiot before actually getting into what is a pretty basic piece of equipment. I’ve done a full service with none of the specific tools (step by step instruction on mtbr, but it’s pretty self-explanatory if you think how a Reverb actually works) and it’s fine.

    muddy9mtb
    Full Member

    i think they did it to put punters off having tried to watch all of them without nodding off. but at least they’ve put them up for lucky punters to have a go 8)

    CalamityJames
    Free Member

    I have also noticed a fair amount of oil sitting at the bottom of my reverb near the valve. It hasn’t been sagging but slowly loses performance after a couple of months (slow to return etc). Can keep it going with a bleed and topping up air so tempted to run it until it becomes unusable then send off for a service.

    strike
    Free Member

    It was daunting taking the Reverb apart for the first time BUT not as hard as you may think and the SRAM instructions are excellent.

    Hob-Nob
    Free Member

    Mine did this last summer, I noticed all seeping out of the drain hole in the bottom of my BB, so it was well & truely knackered.

    It’s under warranty so it went back to SRAM.

    Something to do with the main seal inside they told me.

    extremenik
    Free Member

    I too have the tools and stripped down normal reverbs a few times.

    However, now having a stealth have looked at the Sram manual on line and you do set the oil height differently and need another tool to take the excess oil out, prior to connecting the hose to the head.

    If you find where to get one let me know!

    strike
    Free Member

    The Reverb Stealth uses less special tools than the standard Reverb (AFAIK). If you google oil height tool there are plenty to choose from, however, I made up my own – it’s not hard to do when you see how simple the ones you can buy are!

    extremenik
    Free Member

    I’m talking about the tool to take the last bit of oil out prior to attaching the hose.

    delibury
    Full Member

    I just use a bit of 1/8″ tubing attached to the bleed syringe. Mark the right height with a marker pen, shove it in and suck easy.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

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