looking at poss having to do this depending on outcome of warranty issue with my reverb. Online vids look remarkably simple and suggest no bleed required. Is it really that easy ? Only awkward bit looks like cutting out and reinstalling barb.

advice welcome, cheers

I’ve always had to bleed. Many have not.

Either way, it is very easy and a quick job.

If you cut it at the lever end you don’t need to cut out the barb, it’s a threaded one and totally reusable- lower pressure than brakes so doesn’t need the compression fit etc. Quite a nice system.

I’ve done it successfully without a bleed, I am no mechanical geek.

Just follow the video, you’ll be fine. Bear in mid some barbs are threaded and some aren’t so if it doesn’t come out easily, twist it.

Done two, neither needed a bleed.

Old versions aren’t threaded and you need to faff a bit stripping the hose at the barb, but everything in the last couple of years seems to be threaded and are dead easy:

1. Measure once, measure twice. Three times just to be sure. Mark the cut point.
2. Unscrew speed adjuster to slowest setting.
3. Unscrew cable from threaded barb.
4. Cable cutter or even just a sharp Stanley knife will do – chop cable.
5. Screw cable back onto barb.

Job done.

Just make sure you don’t let the cable or lever drip oil and you’ll not need to bleed it.

Iain, its pretty simple.

deadkenny’s steps are spot on, and its not any harder than it looks in the youtube videos.

I used a stanley to cut the hose.

If anything goes wrong you can always borrow my bleed kit!

thanks all

If you do need a bleed, then bleeding just the remote lever takes about two minutes and bleeding the whole thing takes about five.

Old versions aren’t threaded and you need to faff a bit stripping the hose at the barb

That explains it. Have had older versions.

excellent, I wont be undoing anything at post end so would expect just the lever may need a bleed, so will google that one later, cheers.

I got a bleed kit with it but not used so far 🙂