• This topic has 16 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by P20.
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  • Reverb ~ Complete Home Service/Repair ~ Yes/No??
  • P20
    Full Member

    I need to fettle my Reverb. It has some vertical play, a touch on rotational play and then on Tuesday, I crashed and snapped the barb at the remote end 🙄

    Looking at the SRAM video, any vertical play means you have to send it away for service. Is this the case or with the correct tools can you do it yourself? Its probably worth me buying the tools as there are three bikes with Reverbs in the garage.

    Also is the stealth the same seal kit/tools?

    willber
    Free Member

    Depends how patient u are and if u have access to the ‘full’ service vids n docs. I’d attempt it, but I’m happy to risk it not working out. I still think it would work out cheaper to buy the kits n tools than the cost of a single service. Plus you’ll be able to do others for mates etc – once you’ve done one you’re away. Bike tech really ain’t that complex. Unless you’re talking about indexing the gears on my road bike – lol but that’s another story.

    LoCo
    Free Member

    Full Seal kit a tools will be over £100. Service is £80.
    Also bear in mind they have a 2 year warranty.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    We’ve got a few out of warranty now. I’d be happy to buy the tools myself if the info was out there.

    LoCo
    Free Member

    We can supply the tools for home service stuff (if in stock with supplier)

    howsyourdad1
    Free Member

    When you say vertical play… Do you mean that if you grab the bike by the saddle and pick up the bike the reverb extends slightly?

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    If you get vertical play, check the psi is set to 250. this can be a reason. Chances are if its leaking air then it’ll need a service anyways but its a quick fix to get you through a few rides.

    P20
    Full Member

    It compresses a few mm when I sit on it. It hasn’t been right for a bit, it only works on fast setting.
    Loco, are the the regular and stealth the same seal kit?

    LoCo
    Free Member

    No different kits

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    Mine now has a touch of vertical play – not noticeable riding but it is when moving the bike about. Seems to be linked with losing air, as Once topped up to 250psi it’s OK again. For a bit.

    P20
    Full Member

    Cheers Loco. I am tempted to buy the tools and save in the long run

    racingsnail
    Free Member

    Try here for service instructions

    Edit, that’s for the stealth but check the SRAM sevice side of their site and it should be more there.

    P20
    Full Member

    Cheers racingsnail. Even in there they say it has to be returned. Am I going to die trying this? Has anyone else actually done it?

    reedspeed
    Free Member

    ive done it !,theres a thread on here somewhere ages ago,just followed a clip off youtube..

    lerk
    Free Member

    I’ve done a very nearly full strip (not had to touch a poppet valve yet) a few times now…
    As long as you’re not in a rush, you can do all of the job with only three ‘bespoke’ tools. Tool 1 is a set of plastic vice jaws with an 8(?)mm hole drilled through the joint, you’ll need this to undo the bottom cap from the inner post. Tool 2 is a length of 20mm plastic conduit with a mark measured from one end to the length of drop your post has. Tool 3 is half a dozen tie wraps to pull out the IFP (note: when you strip down the post, before separating the inner post head, compress the air shaft – this moves the IFP to the top of the inner post and makes it a doddle to remove)

    The post bleed kit that is mentioned can be substituted by careful rebuilding and allowing settling time before screwing the inner post back together.
    KS assemble their posts immersed in oil to remove the need to bleed, but just completely filling the inner post, then inserting the IFP, refilling, then inserting the centre shaft part halfway before pushing the IFP down into position then settling the centre shaft.
    Top off the centre shaft then add the piston to close off the centre shaft, pour out the accumulation of oil from the top of the IFP.

    At this point you can either just stick it back together, or leave it for a while so any air rises to the top. (I’ve done a few with just sticking them together with no issue)

    There are two repair kits available, the first at ~£10 has all the seals required if you are just having up/downy issues.
    The second at ~£40 also includes barbs, bushes for rotational problems and a host of other parts which in fairness if you need, the post must have been used as a crampon…

    I actually have a post to do at some point in the near future, so will try and video this process!

    P20
    Full Member

    Cheers Lerk 😀

    P20
    Full Member

    An update!
    I managed to service the standard post with only basic tools and the bleed syringes for the remote. I can see the tools making life a bit easier though, so I’m going to invest.
    And I didn’t die!

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