The kid (35kg) has totalled his new (end May) Nukeproof Horizon wheel.
A bit disappointing but that’s MTB I suppose.

How bad would it be to reuse the spokes and stick a rim on not made of cheese?

Personally having replaced a rim on a road wheel and the lbs reused the spokes and I then kept snapping spokes one at a time a few months apart for a year I wouldn’t. I’ve re-spoked the same hub and rim with aci dB spokes and haven’t broken a single spoke since (originals were decent pillar butted spokes).

I’ve re-built wheels with 10 year old spokes with no issues. YMMV

As always ‘it depends’… on if there is any damage to the spokes.

If no damage then no issues re-using at all, I’ve got several wheels that are on their 2nd or 3rd rim and at least one road wheel that’s had more 4 or 5 rims (I forget how many) and 2 hubs but is still using the original spokes which must be nearly 20 years old now.

Have done many for customers over the years too with no issues at all, but all predicated on spokes being in good condition and correct length for new rim.

If any of the spokes have deep gouges or bad kinks then best play safe and replace, but even then I’d only replace the damaged ones.

I’ve used old spokes many times to build wheels. Never had an issue. Wouldn’t even hesitate in your case. If it isn’t too badly bent/snapped then you might be able to tape a new rim to the old one and move the spokes over one at a time. Much easier than building from scratch.

1000 miles on a set of arch S1 rims, re-used the spokes when swapping over to arch Mk3. No issues in the past year.

I always reuse spokes, but replace nipples (no particular logic, just that’s what I do). In the OP’s case, you’ll want to check that the rims have the same ERD, otherwise the spoke lengths will be wrong.

If you’re keeping the same hub and lacing then I would re-use the spokes (keeping them in position in the hub) for sure unless any have obvious damage.

Don’t forget though, that if you are replacing the rim and re-using spokes then you’ll need a rim with the same ERD measurement. (At least, within a couple of mm, but it depends on how much leeway in each direction the current configuration has: if the spokes are currently on the short side, ie there is exposed thread as you look into the nipple from the outside of the wheel, then you could get away with a smaller ERD, and if they’re on the long side, ie the spoke is starting to protrude above the nipple, you could go larger. But if you match the ERD you should end up with the same build.)

I’ve rebuilt wheels with 30 year old spokes – provided they’re not bent, crack on!

Right…. so worst case I replace spokes if they are damaged…

I “just happen” to have a Spank Race28 sat unused….
From NukeProof the rim is 562mm and the Spank is 553mm++ so assuming “standard nipples” that would be 557mm?
Sticking that into DT spokecalc
for the NP I get 271.7/270.3
for the spank I get 269.3/267.8
I’m off to measure the nipple head now but sounds close enough?

ERD and “++” – In the past ERD was usually communicated as a calculation including a standard nipple head height, (ERD = Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2x Spoke Bed Wall thickness + 2x Nipple Head Height). However, in recent years many new standards of nipples have been introduced, and nipple head heights vary. For example a standard external nipple has a 2mm head, while a DSN type nipple has a 4mm head.

For this reason, Spank communicates ERD without including nipple head height, so the user can add the exact height of the nipples they have chosen for their build, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2X Spoke Bed Wall Thickness = ERD ++).

If you are using an online spoke calculator, and the ERD value is expected to include nipple head height, then you may need to add the head height of the nipples you have chosen to the spoke length offered.

Bah, just going to try it….
A bit disappointing a “downhill rim” can’t take the weight of a 35kg kid…
To be fair he sends it but the rim is bent in a few places.

To be fair he sends it but…

This, for me, would be a significant factor in deciding whether to reuse spokes.

For the time it’s going to take you to replace / tension etc vs just buying new spokes I’d probably just get new spokes.

Also depends what spokes Nukeproof used – if straight gauge ones then a good time to pick up some double butted ones. They’re meant to give a better ride and less likely to snap as they’ve got more give – I guess the slight weight reduction isn’t much to get excited about though.

If you’ve got loads of time and patience then go for it with the existing spokes. If you’ve got a rim there then tape it to the old one (if not too bent – if it’s really wrecked then defo replace the spokes), reduce the tension on the old spokes so there’s a bit of give in the wheels then move them across from the old rim to the new rim one at a time.

This, for me, would be a significant factor in deciding whether to reuse spokes.

Well, sends it for a kid… he’s running decent pressures and tyres sizes. The rim must just be made out of cheese.

View this post on Instagram

My @filthyridesmtb jersey is back for a boost session @rogatedh_b1kepark … another meet with @alfiebikes and fantastic meeting @charliebaker_08 … more to come but here is boosting mainline .. got a train with Warner and @deakinator1 as well then met @zimblake on the way to the carpark.. all I’ll say on that is watch @globalmountainbikenetwork for Fred a suicide machine only @zimblake would “ride” #mtb #downhillmtb #kidsmtb #littlerippers #grom #rogate #mainline #sendit #vtt #vttdescente #vttdh #kidsdownhill #b1kepark

A post shared by OlsterMTB (@olstermtb) on Sep 2, 2020 at 3:55am PDT

Sod it…. the Spank Rim I have spare is a 32H and the Nukeproof hub is 28H.
Really seems to be made of cheese… hard to see how a 35kg kid can wreck a wheel sold as Enduro…

View this post on Instagram

Sad last post for a while. My new @nukeproofbikes horizon appears to be not very #nuke-proof I guess I put weight on over #lockdown as I’m now 35kg. Anyone selling a cheap wheel? 27.5/142 I’m still paying my Dad for this wheel @filthyridesmtb @littlerippersmtb #downhillkids #downhillmtb #grom #mtb #vttenduro #vttdescente #enduromtb #kidsmtb #kidsthatshred

A post shared by OlsterMTB (@olstermtb) on Sep 14, 2020 at 5:23am PDT

Ive reused loads of spoke over the years on mtb’s and bmx’s (my bmx wheels take a lot of abuse!)

Top tip when just replacing a rim, get some electrical tape and tape together the spokes where they cross over, go round the whole wheel doing this

Then undo all the spoke nipples then pull the hub and all the spokes away from the rim, the spokes will stay in their upright position

Offer up a new rim making sure you start right at the valve hole and go round refitting the nipples

Been doing it this way since 1992 (Dave Mirra, Ride on bmx vid) makes it so much easier when just replacing a rim

It might be that the original wheel just wasnt very well built in the 1st place, so isnt going to take the abuse a better built wheel with the same components would stand.

I’d reuse the spokes no probs and have done so just recently rebuilding one good wheel for a neighbour out of 2 bad wheels(knackered hub on one, pringled rim on the other).

So it’s either new 28H rim or new 32H hub or steal a hub from some perfectly good 26″ wheels but need to buy all new spokes (the NP is straightpull)?

It might be that the original wheel just wasnt very well built in the 1st place, so isnt going to take the abuse a better built wheel with the same components would stand.

Yeah agreed… I usually redo machine built wheels before riding but figured he’s only 35kg and it was true so why bother. Independent of that though are the dings (again he’s only 35kg the rim looks worse than a 75kg rider just rode Leogang with no tyre)

Just looking at CRC I can get a 28H Race Face Arc 27mm rim for £40 but not sure if they will hold up any better?

Anyone got experience or opinions on the RaceFace Arc ?

I’ve got 2 of them in the garage (been there ages waiting for a damaged wheel!), they seem good enough, but they aren’t full on DH rims, if you’re going to be hammering them then you need to think about inserts and so on, folk complain that they damage them or get flat spots, whilst casing everything hard within a 10 mile radius, then wondering why the rims get damaged.

As for spokes, reuse as many times as you can get away with, just make sure to remove them carefully, i.e. use some penetrator prior to removing the nipples, then give them a little oil on the threads and store away.

Yes but try to keep them in the same “group” i.e leading / trailing inside flange / outside flang

if you’re going to be hammering them then you need to think about inserts and so on, folk complain that they damage them or get flat spots, whilst casing everything hard within a 10 mile radius, then wondering why the rims get damaged

Does the weight not make a big difference?
The kid is only 35kg fully kitted up.

Gwin is 75kg + kit and doubtess the bike is heavier as well yet his non DH rim with no tyre was in better condition after Leogang than my kids rim after 3 months. It’s not only the crack the rims are bent all over the place as well.

As it happens I was out with a mate last week who’s 110kg and smashed his rim. He got a new wheel so I bought his hub and spokes off him for £20 and a bike service and built up the Spank Race28 rim I’d got for £15.

Spokes were a bit long but I had some shorter nipples and I rebuilt it today.
Longer term I’m still looking for a 28H rim…

I always re-use spokes and have never had a failure. CX-Rays are bloody expensive.

I’ve reused a couple of times with no issues.

So reused the spokes and the donor hub and built it yesterday… as straight and round as possible without removing stickers.
Stuck the tyre on it last night and built a dishing tool today. got it pretty close… then straightened it slightly after dishing so all looking good…

Still looking for a 28H rim but not in a rush now.