Replacing bearings in HT2 bottom brackets…
The bearings/top hats in my XTR cups are finally shot, despite numerous re-greases!
I’m running them with FSA Moto SS cranks – perusing the net would suggest these cranks won’t work, but the spindle is 24mm, and the bearing ID (with top hat) is 24mm) and they DO work…
However, it’s time to replace the bearings and wondered what the consensus was on enduro bearings (without the top hat) Vs cheaper bearings?
And reliable sources (web links etc) would be appreciated too!
DrPPosted 4 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
My enduro bearings were terrible, lasted less well than a deore (which was also pretty terrible tbh). I don’t like disposable stuff but it just makes more sense to buy a newXT, on all fronts.
Another good option is to get a Gusset EXT24 (or there’s a Token equivalent, I forget the name)- not too expensive, easily servicable and takes a standard bearing. Just need to be careful not to damage the cups as they’re not available separately.Posted 4 years agochakapingSubscriber
Anyone else had bother removing the XTR bearings?
XT ones come out no bother, but the XTR I tried was too tight to get out with a screwdriver and mallet.
Trying to get some use out of my growing collection of working drive side bearings – since it’s always the NDS that fails first.Posted 4 years agome1tdownMember
I use trailbright BBs, they have better than average splash guard and I’ve always assumed it was water getting in that was ruining the bearing. When the bearing dies I replace it with another standard size one with extra grease.
Having said that their website is down, maybe they’ve gone out of business!Posted 4 years agojimsmithMember
I’ve done xtr with an old steel bmx seat post. it was inch and not micro adjust, so no clamp at all the thin bit fits nicely in the bearing, made a wooden clamp for the vice. they are pressed in v tight. I also destroy non drive way before the drive side usually. worked fine but replacements are pretty cheap now it’s true…Posted 4 years ago
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