Always loved my Burgtec pedals, been running hope F20 for a while now, never really gotten on with them, but they are not ‘bad’ likely I will give the composite Burgtecs ago shortly as my hopes are due a service/bearing change

The answer is Burgtec Penthouse mk4.

My Superstar pedals have been terrific. They’re looking a little worn in now but have taken 8+ years of abuse in their stride. And amazingly only 1 change of bearings.

Just bought the composite Burtecs for a try a short while ago. Not fitted yet though.

I’m a big fan of composite pedals. Very little reason I can see to buy alloy these days?

I have two pairs of nano’s that need servicing. I’ve yet to be able to find a socket of the correct width/length for the outboard nut. Anyone recommend me somethihg?

I do like Nano’s, cheap and last a long time.
I also like my One-Ups but they are pretty big and tend to get clattered by my clumsiness
Might go composite next.

Nanos here too, “tuning” the pins to give a more concave feel. I regard pedals as a consumable, but the current pairs have lasted a few years now with only bushing replacement, the odd new pin and a couple of fresh axles after heavy hits on rocks.

Tried some plastic Nano clones and they were OK, but the current Nanos with the through pins just work well for bashing into rocks and stuff.

Is this what you need Alex?
https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/nano-pedal-service-tool.htm

I got a mini-socket off ebay for same job, think it’s a 9mm.

DMR VAULTS +1

I’ve tried a huge amount of flats.

My favourites are:

DMR Vault – massive platform, all the grips. Most grip of any pedal. A bit fat, not by loads. Sealing is terrible, so they need servicing regular, which is super easy, but a pain. ~17mm thick

Burgtec Penthouse – super grippy, not as grippy as Vaults, bearings are amazing, super tight. Come in awesome colours. ~16mm thick

Raceface Atlas – very grippy, super slim, light. Stock bearings are awful, but if you replace them they are amazing. ~13mm thick

Hope F20 – seals are amazing, bearings are brilliant, tough. No concavity, but can be faked out by removing pins. Not the grippest. ~16mm

My all-time favourite would be specialized Boomslang. Super thin, light, super grippy. But… You can’t really service them properly, even with the propriety tool. So can’t recommend them, unless you’re happy to spend like £120 and throw them away in a couple of months.

Vaults are good but I’ve got sick of the bushing rattle, it’s a change bushing every 6 months relube every 3 for me and I’m a bit sick of it! The sealing arrangement is rubbish so im not surprised the grease gets washed out.

The superstar nano-x Evo pedals I have are ok, the nut uses standard thread to screw onto the axle so I’ve had the driveside pedal fall off a couple of times.

I’m thinking either stamp 1 (composite) or oneup composite will be my next pedals. I like the sealing on the stamps (especially since every pedal had the same spares and it’s available in every bike shop!) I have been impressed with the design of oneup stuff recently

Yeah, the Stamps are pretty good. Grease port for when they get some play. And the pins are very grippy grub screws.

Chainreaction have a BIG10 code that gets a further 10% of Stamps at the moment

Apologies for the thread hijack, but Rickon and Tracey – how’ve you got on (or not) with servicing the Boomslangs? Reason I ask is because the bearings in mine have just started to feel dry and notchy, and I don’t want to run them into the ground.

I was wondering about dropping the pedals in at my local Specialized dealer for them to regrease/service – main thing that’s putting me off is flaky reputation of local dealer (JEJames), and I’d service them myself if I had the tool.

We have the tool so no problems. I don’t think JE James have the tool, they didn’t when I asked.
There is a guy on line who gets into them without the tool but didn’t want to risk it.

Hi Tracey, that’s really helpful – thank you (saved me a wasted journey to JEJ!).  Somewhere in the depths of my garage/workshop, I’m sure I have some of the needle nosed pliers he uses:))

Thats ok. I have the pliers as well but didn’t want to mess up.

Hmm, just tried the needle nosed pliers, and flipping heck, those bearing caps do not want to move.  Looks like I’ll have to have a word with the fellas at 18 Bikes and see if they have a suitable tool in their box😄

Dont think anything other than the proper tool will shift it then

Personally, I find the burgtec penthouse pedals sit far too close to the crank arm… causing your feet to rub the crank arm.

Is this what you need Alex?
https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/nano-pedal-service-tool.htm

I got a mini-socket off ebay for same job, think it’s a 9mm.

Thanks for that. I borrowed that tool off a mate and it didn’t fit! Need to check which versions he has. I’ll try and find a thin 9mm socket. Well another one, I’ve bought 2, neither of which have been quite long enough.

Vaults and recently upgraded v12s on winter bike to Burgtec Penthouse alloy,

they are easily as good as the vaults and I like that they sit close to the crankarms.
I’ve noticed on the vaults I struggled over the rock garden on pbw above Marsden, maybe tired legs but seem to scrape them here and there

I recommended a mate to upgrade from v12 to vaults he was amazed the difference in grip, if you ride both clipped and flats, spend the money on flats as m520 clips at £20 are as good as the clipped rest

Ps blacks have had both vaults and burgtec well under retail £65-72 just wait for the next 10-15% code

What dark times we live in when cyclists are recommending plastic bushed pedals to each other.

Ever heard of ball bearings? Say no to this plastic bushing nonsense with the higher friction and short lifespan.

Sad but understandable that bike companies will push this inferior design to minimise their cost and follow the thin and shiny pedal trend if enough mugs will buy them. 100 quid for a pedal with a shitty bushing and a tiny cartridge bearing!? (Dmr vaults) if you’re going to peddle such trash you should at least make it cheap.

At least Shimano make a couple of decent ball bearing flat pedals. Not in anodised bling colours though.

How can folk seriously recommend dmr Pedal’s, I have had 2 sets and they both only lasted a few months before bearing destroyed, I would rather use the free pedals you get with a bike to get you going

I noticed someone said they found the Burtec 4’s say too close to the cranks?

My composite ones haven’t arrived yet but I notice from the web that they fit further away from the cranks than the alloy ones.👍

Alloy below.

Cranks always get trashed anyway. Even with my big plates of meat, I’ve never noticed the inward position as an issue. Mibbe different if you’re hen toed or something.

Not sure anyone asked but:

“New bushes (only) are available from a proper bearing supplier easily enough for not much £££”

Can anyone post a link please?

What dark times we live in when cyclists are recommending plastic bushed pedals to each other.

Ever heard of ball bearings? Say no to this plastic bushing nonsense with the higher friction and short lifespan.

Bushings can be better than really small bearings in some applications , see Sram jockey wheels for example . £30 Plastic Nuke Proof’s for me , throw them away when they wear out after a couple of years , seems like decent value to me .

Any tips on servicing DMR V12s? Anywhere to get bearings/bushings cheap? I quite like mine, have regreased them but at 5 years old they probably need a proper service

A pedal axle bearing/bushing sees quite different loads to a jockey wheel. The only arguments for using them in a pedal are cost and overall height.

 The only arguments for using them in a pedal are cost and overall height.

Given the cost of some of these pedals I think we can whittle that down to overall height. Slim pedals with ball bearings tend to put a big bearing in a bulge next to the crank.  This doesn’t bother me but others don’t like it, guess you just have to choose your compromises

Raceface Atlas for me, decent sized platform, good bearings, tough, light and low profile.

Not sure how this happened but I’ve got a pair of Burgtec composite and Stamp 1 composites Large on the way…lol going to send back the set I like the size/look of the least. Not used of course.

Excluded the OneUps as they are

convex

rather than concave and I don’t ride much at all with the pedal in the arch of my foot as they are designed for apparently…. It’s usually a bit further forward so they aren’t for me.

I noticed someone said they found the Burtec 4’s say too close to the cranks?

It’s a valid point, and one to consider, especially if you run carbon cranks, and crank boots. There is basically no space left.

The Composite ones do sit out like a normal pedal. I’m now a few rides into mine, first set of Burgtec pedals I have had in years (because of the closeness to cranks issue) & they are a lovely shape, with loads of grip.

They really do highlight the convex shape of the OneUp pedals on my other bike. which might now be for the spares box.

Solid thumbs up from me, so far 🙂

So what’s the downfall with composite pedals then?

I’m seriously lowering my budget and still able to to get some good pedals after reading this thread.

Narrowed it down to the new burgtec composites or superstar nano evo pedals.. any opinions out the 2??

I can have a new pair of riding shoes with the left over cash. It’s a win win situation

I just watched the video of the Boomslang service and I made a pin wrench tool like you would need to service them for my old X-fusion forks. you just need some steel rod of the diameter of the holes.

CRC

Hob Nob

The Composite ones do sit out like a normal pedal. I’m now a few rides into mine, first set of Burgtec pedals I have had in years (because of the closeness to cranks issue) & they are a lovely shape, with loads of grip.

They really do highlight the convex shape of the OneUp pedals on my other bike. which might now be for the spares box.

Solid thumbs up from me, so far

Nice to hear the feedback on the Burtecs comps.

I think in going to be hard pressed to choose between the Burtecs and the Stamp 1’s.🤔

souster4

Member
So what’s the downfall with composite pedals then?

You know what, it’s really hard to find many negatives about composite pedals these days.

Very strong, light, cheaper, don’t show scratches and gouges. Some even say it (being plastic) removes some of the feedback when hit on rocks etc but I can’t vouch for that particular point.

Boomslang pedals really good for grip but cracked the little trapdoor that holds the needle bearing. Specialized dont do this as a spare part so pedal useless now.Burgtec do all parts for penthouse so much better option for me. Using with boost axle as i have big feet. Dont find grip a problem but not as grippy as spesh ones.

I’ve got a new pair of nuke proof plastics in the spares bin. I thought my ss nanos were toast and thier (ss) customer service weren’t playing ball.

Turns out my pedals were fine it was a crank issue identified by my Lbs.

They both use the same axles and bearings though but the plastics are a fair bit lighter.

I’d certainly go plastic in future, purely not to give super star any more business. They are really un helpful if you have questions about thier product quality.

Well….

Got the Penthouse composites…. And the Stamp (large) composites sat in front of me.

A bit surprised with the Stamps! They are NOT concave. The axle is easily above the front and back of the pedal. You could only call them concave if you allow for the pins, which I think is a bit cheeky.

Was fairly sure I was going to keep the Stamps… Not so sure now.

The Penthouses? Smaller pedal obvs, less pins but very concave.👍

So, obviously, all this is based on just looking at them and a bit of measuring not using them… So hardly conclusive! Lol

It’s just that I tend not to like convex pedals so really not to sure which of these to keep now and which to send back.

First world problems,eh?

Hello mattyfez I’m sorry you are having an issue with your nanos, can you tell me more as 99% of problems can be fixed in seconds as they are epically simple to work on. All the spare parts are listed online. If you can tell me the order number I can find out the model/age to give more accurate information

Most of the time if you remove the axle, wipe clean, degrease and maybe push a new bush in they will be as new again. Literally 2 minutes work.

Ok for the person complaining about bushes in pedals, I’ll respond with my perspective as someone who designs, machines and sells tens of thousands of Uk made pedals a year. In a pedal you have to allow for thrust load to hold the body on the axle, if you want a thin pedal your options are limited. You either have a big bearing and bulge at the inside, you have a fat cartridge axle like shimano or you use a bearings and bush system. If you want thin you go for the latter

Bushes are a very good solution as their load rating for their outer diameter is much better than a bearing. At the inner position where bushes are used the axle is about 10mm so a bearing would be 18mm outer diameter probably so you end up with a brick of a pedal 22mm+ thick in the middle.

The second reason is to make a proper 2bearing pedal the accuracy requirements of the pedal body and the axle goes crazy, and the cost will sky rocket. If you use a bush which allows axial tolerance it’s a much more sane way of doing it.

So in conclusion yes we could make a bearing only pedal but nobody would buy a 24mm thick, heavy, £300 pedal. And don’t get me started on the rubbishness of plastic pedals….

That said we have some more pedals in the works once we have finished all the new entry level uk made hubs and wheels

Neil Superstar Components