Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • Recommend me a front through axle
  • Premier Icon pembo6
    Full Member

    My standard Rockshox quick release maxle lite is shite. The quick release part is soft as cheese and already bending (I can temporarily fix by filing the bent bits down).

    It’s for a 2018 Pike 15×110

    I quite like the stealth ones but I have to take the front wheel off every ride, so I reckon the hex key will round out real quick!

    WhAt other good options are there? That don’t cost too much.
    Thanks.

    Premier Icon sirromj
    Full Member

    THE torque for maxle stealth isn’t high enough that rounding of hex keys should occur. 13nm max. Easy to go way above that by hand. edit: I mean with a small hex key in the hand rather than ratchet with lots of leverage.

    Premier Icon mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Yep the stealth is a 6mm so hard to round off. Simple and works well.

    Premier Icon Poopscoop
    Full Member

    As above, the Stealth is great.

    Premier Icon Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    What are you doing to ‘bend’ it? 🤔

    Premier Icon otsdr
    Free Member

    I thought all ‘new’ Pikes have the Maxle Ultimate, can’t see how you’d bend that.

    Premier Icon pembo6
    Full Member

    Thanks all. Looks like I’ll be getting a stealth.
    Im not bending the actual axle. It’s the thin alloy cam(?) bit that the quick release goes into. I’ve heard a lot of people complain about it bending. I’m not torquing it hard and it as still gets bent.

    Premier Icon patagonian
    Full Member

    That sounds like the old version which they have fixed, I think we need pictures……

    Premier Icon pembo6
    Full Member

    It’s one of these
    http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/maxle-lite

    The edges of the quick release start to round off with very little pressure.

    I might try one of the Brand X axles with the “twist lever” through axle.

    Premier Icon geex
    Free Member

    Ah… those little edges?
    Sounds like you’re either doing it up too tight or not seating the open lever in position properly before tightening or loosening it. Probably both TBF.

    Dismantling the lever from the maxle then taking a minute or two with a flat file on the worn edges is all that’s needed to square the surfaces up again nicely for you. Once you’ve done that make sure the maxle is greased and stop doing it up so tightly. The cam (when you close the lever) causes the maxle to expand in the dropout and that’s what stops it opening. The maxle only needs tightened (threaded in) in the fork dropouts tight enough to remove the play from the hub.
    PM me if you can’t be arsed I’ll take the maxle off your hands and do it rather than you binning an otherwise functional part.

    Rock shox really should write detailed instructions for their maxles on a label attached to their maxles. Especially since they have changed the design so often.

    Premier Icon otsdr
    Free Member

    Well, as I said, 2014+ Pikes should have come with the Maxle Ultimate, not Maxle Lite. If you need to remove the wheel very often, you’ll be better off with an Ultimate rather than the Stealth.

    maxle

    Premier Icon kayak23
    Full Member

    I had one of those replaced under warranty. I believe I possess good mechanical sympathy but they are simply not up to the job.

    The new one is way better.

    Premier Icon yourguitarhero
    Free Member

    Yeah, the lite is shite. Ultimate is much better.

    Premier Icon lesgrandepotato
    Full Member

    Kcnc replacement. Light, cheaper, colourful and unbreakable

    Premier Icon patagonian
    Full Member

    I had exactly the same problem and replaced it with the Ultimate which solved the problem, the original is a very poor design and although you can file it back it will keep breaking up around the edge until there is nothing left.
    I also have the Stealth which works well as long as you remember the Allen key!

    Premier Icon reggiegasket
    Free Member

    +1 ultimate

    mtzoom are also good for a light bolt thru. Lot’s of different versions too.

    Premier Icon frogstomp
    Full Member

    Those Maxles are fine but, as Geex indicates, education / knowledge about their correct usage is patchy.

    You shouldn’t need to do them up particularly tight with the collar (just enough to remove bearing play) and then clamp with the lever (if the cam is too loose adjust it with the allen bolt – the step which a lot of people don’t seem to be aware of). Greasing the threads is also worth it to keep them easier to undo.

    The SRAM instructions are here – p16-18. They state “To thread the Maxle into the drop out, rotate the lever clockwise until it stops.”.

    Premier Icon benp1
    Full Member

    My lite rounded off, and then it broke when I was in BPW. The handle feel off. Thankfully I didn’t get a flat in the bikepacking trip that followed in the next two days. Replaced it with the ultimate one and it was fine

    Premier Icon pembo6
    Full Member

    Thanks everyone. Ive not been tightening my lite axle much, but certainly more than others above have described.
    Thanks for the info. I’ll stop overtightening. And eventually get one of the newer versions.

Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)

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