Looking for upgrades for my Scott Gambler DH20, I have a nasty habit of riding as fast as possible and Im prone to wiping out at high speed, so beefy but preferably not too heavy!

What wheels? Been looking at options for maybe MTX-33 or EX721 to replace the Alex Supra BH’s, any suggestions to go on Hope Pro II’s/DT Swiss spokes?

What Forks? Currently has 888 RV’s which Ive been told are a good shock when set up right, I have Fox’s on my other bkes and they seem as good. Was thinking of putting 888 ATA’s on it, maybe 40’s, but cant really justify those at the moment as the RV’s are performing pretty well.

What Crank? Currently has Truvativ Hussevelt DH 1.1 36t, was thinking of putting Saint stuff on it, will this reduce the weight any?

What Drivechain? Has SRAM 5.0 or soemthing, was thinking of replacing this with Saint Shadow kit, will it fit?

What Rear Shox? Currently a Van R coil, is very plush, will replacing with a DHX 5.0 make any difference?

What Bars & Stem? Has some of Scotts own crap on an a Monster integrated stem, super heavy though….

Discuss…… 😀

new frame would probably be a better upgrade 😉

I will kill this one first 😉

You sound alittle confused and want to change ALL the parts on the bike? Is it new?

You’re not going to improve the performance of the forks much without going for some tunned boxxers, older 888s (RC2X) or buying 40’s.

Rear suspension tuning is always well spent money for dh.

I wouldn’t start replacing all the parts on that bike, only when they die. How do you find yourself wiping out a high speed?

it is a scott. it shouldn’t take long.

721 on pro2
Saint cranks
Sram x9 kit
Thomson 4x stem
Easton Bars
fox dhx 5

The bike functions well as it is, Ive thought about just running it on the standard kit it comes with, but its a £1500 frame on a £2000 bike, so inevitably the parts suffer as a result of the build…

Im also minted and want some bling, oh and generally just to put the bike on a diet 😉

I wipe out at high speed beacuse……Im crap

In Reply to: jam bo – Member

“it is a scott. it shouldn’t take long. “

I know, great geometry though…

the only thing you’ve mentioned changing that you’d actually notice is the forks, forget Fox or 888ATAs tho I’d just get a 2008 boxxer team (don’t need to be tuned, out the box they are fine).
as Mr Solomanda said, just replace shit when it busts.

In Reply to: alwyn – Member

Thanks Dude, you recommend 721’s over MTX’s?

speedy_gonzales – Member
The bike functions well as it is, Ive thought about just running it on the standard kit it comes with, but its a £1500 frame on a £2000 bike, so inevitably the parts suffer as a result of the build…

do they ****.. manufacturers profit margin is the only thing that suffers

do they ****.. manufacturers profit margin is the only thing that suffers

Well of course, goes without say, but the parts arent great either!

Seeing as you’ve called yourself minted, my honest opinion is keep it stock, learn your trade and then buy a proper dh bike when you’ve got an idea.

Get yourself down to a good DH spot with a community and ask for advice on riding and kit.

Changing the transmission isn’t going to make you faster or braver.

Getting the suspension right is well worth doing.

Maybe blow some cash on a skills training day, Dirtschool gets my vote.

Having said all that, i’ve put new Saint transmission on my Glory just because i could. I’m still crap.

Seeing as you’ve called yourself minted, my honest opinion is keep it stock, learn your trade and then buy a proper dh bike when you’ve got an idea.

Get yourself down to a good DH spot with a community and ask for advice on riding and kit.

Actually Im pretty quick on a bike, and Im not that crap really, but I do break bikes regularly…

I also ride often at some good venues and have a load of mates who ride too, I thought the intention of forums was to offer feedback and advice?

Just looking for input really, the pro’s and con’s type stuff…

Definitally 721 over mtx. I ran 721’s for years on one wheel. Never needed any fixing. Got a few flat spots but it was used in wales and for dh racing.

Definitally 721 over mtx. I ran 721’s for years on one wheel. Never needed any fixing. Got a few flat spots but it was used in wales and for dh racing.

I hear the 721’s are crimped only with no welding like the MTX’s? Problem is if I order this kit from the likes of CRC, I dont get to look before I buy!!!

Thanks, still cant make a decision mind!! 🙂

When I was reasonably fast at DH I broke shit loads of parts but all my money at the time went on racing, not parts.. oh, that and drugs, alchohol and the inevitable burds.. hmmm 😕
😉

pro2’s DT double butted & Mavic 823’s, stick some UST Minions, HR’s or something else tubeless on, that would be the first thing I’d do!

721s are certainly strong enough for DH use, but if you’re heavy and/or a little hamfisted with your lines/landings, then they will get dinged over time. This doens’t stop them from being usable but they will most likely need replacing sooner than alternatives. The 823 seems to be tougher – I’ve yet to ding mine but I dinged the 721s routinely.

Best upgrades to any DH bike though is shock tuning – send your rear damper off to either Mojo or TF, they will make a big difference to its performance. If you were to change your fork then best value would be a 2008 Boxxer Team. Get them from TF and they will tune them to your weight, style etc before they ship them. There are other equally good forks, but none at this price.

Drive train is niether here nor there. It won’t make a blind bit of difference to the bike’s performance.

I also ride often at some good venues and have a load of mates who ride too, I thought the intention of forums was to offer feedback and advice?

Indeed, my advice is not throw lots of money at a bike that isn’t very good.

seriously mate, if you want the type of advice you’re after I’d go to Ridemonkey.com there are loads of folk there that will tell you that spending £3000 to save a couple of pounds on an already decent DH bike is worthwile, but unless you’re already up there (ie. podiuming in your category at races) it’ll make **** all difference other than it’ll be easier to push back up the hill :p

i would say boxxers also get some nice pedals if your running crap ones and perhaps a couple of sets of descent tyres.

Indeed, my advice is not throw lots of money at a bike that isn’t very good.

You ridden one then?

Thanks for all your comments guys, happy huntin 🙂

Rad!

post the helmet cam footage?

“but its a £1500 frame on a £2000 bike, so inevitably the parts suffer as a result of the build…

Im also minted and want some bling, oh and generally just to put the bike on a diet”

If all that is true, why didn’t you just buy the more expensive DH10 model with the fox 40’s in the first place?

You ridden one then?

No, but going by previous experience of Scott dh bikes and you wanting to change it totally, I can make an educated guess.

I have a nasty habit of riding as fast as possible and Im prone to wiping out at high speed

So spend the cash on a weekends coaching with someone.
Seriously, this will give you a MUCH better return, make you a better, faster rider and save all the crashes.
Way more than some bike bling could ever do.

[/quote]No, but going by previous experience of Scott dh bikes and you wanting to change it totally, I can make an educated guess.

I wouldnt call it educated…

Its a good frame, just not a great spec on the cheaper version… Hence the upgrades

matt – is that the way to do it these days?

😕

DH10 is too expensive, I would have gone for something more ‘ridden’ and well known at that price, i.e. Fully specced Demo or Glory or the likes.

I got the the DH20 new for £1500, so at that price I can afford to spend £500 on bits to lighten it a bit!

Im not minted really just a bit of fun… Actually Im a tight arse, hence me coming on here to try and get myself to spend money on new wheels 😉

Helmetcam footage for y’all…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2QDuZJlW-E

P.S: Matt are you a guide by any chance? LOL

best value upgrad for the forks would be BOSS cartriges surely (might cost nearly as much as boxxers though) but you’d have something a bit special.

Mavics on Pro2’s

2006/7 Marzocchi 888 RC2X fit or Forget reliablilty, if you want newer then its 2009 888 WC on nothing from the 09 or 09 888 range, or Forx 40.
My 888 RC2X are the best dh fork ive owned as the adjustments seem to make an actuall difference.

Easton EA70 bars, in fact easton anywhere you can fit it.

Drive chain – the saint stuff has a good rep, i’d run XT/XTR shifter on XT mechs – mechs brake so no point spending hundreds.

Consider getting the Van R pushed tuned as they are meant to ride very nicely.

Do you even need a downhill bike? Could ride the stuff in that video on a fully rigid bike! 😉

nice 1 happy

Not as quick as yer mates though….

Do you even need a downhill bike? Could ride the stuff in that video on a fully rigid bike! [;)]

Haha, problem with helmet cams, always looks less steep and not nearly as quick as the real deal 😉

Not as quick as yer mates though….

Haha, is that Dan or Paddy?

I’d go for the hope hubs you suggest with the mavic 721’s. You’ll dent them occasionally but they soon straighten with an adjustable spanner. Pretty light too.

Suspension wise is the vanilla r with a piggy back? If so give TF a call and see if they can tune/ideally push tune it for you. If you get a dhx and have it pushed tuned (the best option) then they remove a lot of the adjustability over the vanilla anyway. Forks either boxxers or 40’s. i’ve had both and run 40’s now as I got fed up of breaking boxxers in silly ways.

Control points I’d go for some nice Fli xxl reverse bars from mtb direct, a nice 760mm wide and not too heavy, stem thomson for me – light and strong.

And the new saint cranks should definitely drop some weight over the truvativs and look nice too.

I’ve got a lot of this stuff on my sunday and rate it all.