Need to get a rear wheel for my 135mm fitting frame and wondered if it’s worth getting one with a hub that can be converted to 135×10 if it gives a noticeable difference over the normal qr fitting?
Thanks.

Yeah. It’s a pain in the ass getting in and out.

LOL apart from that……?

I played around with 10mm bolt-in and bolt-through, there was a wee bit of difference but not worth spending money on imo unless you’re desperate to add stiffness. I couldn’t feel any difference between the 2 methods but bolt-in was lighter.

TBH, I thought the bike I was trying it on, my hemlock, worked less well with the stiffer axle (though I’d be lying if I said I was sure it wasn’t all in my head). But I’m not that convinced that stiffer = better in general and I think most people are.

I’ve noticed the difference in forks by going to bolt through. It is a lot stiffer.
But If I’m honest I don’t feel it at the rear.

To a degree, the benefit you get depend on the design of your frame and wherebrhe linkage pivot points are.

I reckon I felt a difference on my old Heckler (a 2006 iirc). It was mostly noticable on off-camber stuff where it held a line better.

I had a theory about this. On a single pivot frame which has a long way from the pivot to the rear axle, in my head theres a lot of room there for flex between both sides of the swingarm so a 10mm axle would help. A bit. I did it on my Blur 4X which, with its VPP linkages and triangulated rear end like a hardtail, made zero noticeable difference.

I guess with my same bonkers theories, something like an FSR rear end would make a slight difference too with the pivots so close to the axle. I don’t know – I work in IT, not engineering!

It made a difference on my Orange 5. I used one of these to give the best of both worlds, QR and 10MM.

Yes it will be on a prophet using one of those things ^ so it might make a difference by the sound of it.

Get the DT swiss one.

I’ve bought cheap ones before and learnt my lesson

Swapping my Scandal over this week. I’ll report back.

I did use one on my HL 5spot and it made a small but appreciable difference.

I’d not spend the money it took to convert the hub internals and axle again though. I’m now using the same hub with 10mm axle on my sultan some 5 years later and there’s no discernable difference on that rear sub-frame.

What’s the benefit of the DT Swiss axle over the superstar one…..
which I bought in the sale last year 😳

my SS one broke at the cam end.

DT swiss is so much better made. Get what you pay for as I found out.

Get the DT swiss one.

If you can find one, production has been stopped.

Go for a Hope Pro 2 Evo 10mm bolt in rear, QRs are soooo yesteryear!

It’s looking like I might go with an evo rear hub for the flexibility.

I put one on an old Patriot as I was so fed up with the disk rubbing when cornering or cranking up hill. Sorted that out very nicely so definitely stiffens the system up. Not sure I would say I noticed the difference from a handling point of view though.

I’ve gone ss 10mm qr on my Boardman fs and find its noticeably stiffened up the rear. However that’s a rear end I’ve always found a bit flexy/twisty.
The ss qr is no better/worse than a normal qr (was using shim xt qr before)

10mm bolt-in all the way.

10mm bolt-in all the way

Same here, but if you buy a Pro2 do yourself a flavour and get some 10.9 hard bolts in there before Hope’s cunningly disguised cheese rounds out on you.

I started using one of those superstar ones a few months ago. When I used to stamp on the pedals with the old skinny QR in I could hear the rear disk start to rub in time with my pedal strokes. Most annoying! This 10mm superstar jobby has sorted that out.

I stuck an SS 10mm on my Pitch, seems stiffer… could be psychological though. Definitely looks stiffer.

Picked it up cheap, with the adapters, off here.

10.9 hard bolts

What are these? Please explain.

For engineering purposes good quality bolts have the hardness stamped on them. For some applications you want tough, for some you want hard. IIRC 10.9 is about as hard as you can buy, certainly the hardest Bradford Bolt and Nut sell.

They don’t round out easily!

I had a DT one that spat its insides out. Bought a Superstar one to replace it which, although was much more difficult to open with cold hands etc, never broke. And it cost £6 or something.

Any links to those bolts mentioned?
Mind you they use a specific bolt adapter don’t they not the 135×10 through adapter?

10.9 button heads on ebay

Do the Hope bolts not screw into an aluminium axle? If so, surely the axle is the weak thread.

It’s not the thread, it’s the head!

Buggers kept rounding out on me, and I though the supplied bolts were notorious for it [though it may also be the hex key I use].

The bolts supplied with my Hope bolt-in had an allen socket that was pretty slack and not very deep, add a bit of mud in there and it’s a recipe for damage even in steel. Not clever.

I had the older DT 10mm, it was total shit, broke the second time I used it and clearly nobody at the shop or at DT was remotely surprised. So I used a Superstar after that, heavy but fine. The more recent DT seemed better but I never used one in my own bike.

granny_ring – Member

It’s looking like I might go with an evo rear hub for the flexibility.

But it’s all about stiffness not flexibility! HA! HA!

HA!

If anyone here can tell the difference by riding them – you’re full of b@@@s@@t!

Maybe we’re just more gnar than you.

Ahh eye sea.

@ Northwind………..boom tish!
I understand now then, was getting confused, the bolt in needs a different axle?
Therefore that’s a no go, I’ll use the Superstar jobby.
If anyone sees a link for a DT Swiss 135mm bolt through can they post on here ta.
Thanks for the help peoples.

The Hope bolt-in is a complete kit, it doesn’t use a skewer at all- instead it comes with 2 bolts that thread into the hub axle. Stiffer or less stiff than the 10mm through-axle? I have no idea! Lighter though. Arguably faffier but when do you ever want to remove the rear wheel without having tools handy?

The Superstar needed a different axle and end caps on my Pro 2 NOT Evo hub. I think the Evo has the correct axle, you just need the 10mm end caps. Apparently, other hub brands are available.

Yeah I’ve got the evo end caps for the superstar axle so will try that. Just wondered if the bolt in would be stronger than bolt through, think it would be but I dont want to buy the specific bolt in axle and strip the hub down and rebuild.