Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • rear derailer alignment tool
  • z1ppy
    Full Member

    Park one looks lovely, but Amazon is full of very similar looking ones for half the price. Do they do the job just as well or are you better spending the money? (on a lifeline…)

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    I’ve used a Park at work and a Lifeline at home. I prefer the latter.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    I’ve got a cheap one, probably brand-x or lifeline or similar.

    It’s a bit of a PITA as the adjustable slidy bit has some play in it so getting it in the same place at different positions on the wheel is a bit of luck.

    Rubber_Buccaneer
    Full Member

    I also have one of the cheapies with a bit of play but it doesn’t really matter so long as you take care and I wouldn’t bet on the Park one being any better

    in the same place at different positions on the wheel

    Don’t you turn the wheel with the tool?  Just sort of rotate the whole lot and check they take the same path?

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Don’t you turn the wheel with the tool? Just sort of rotate the whole lot and check they take the same path?

    The derailleur hanger and hub axle aren’t concentric.

    Rubber_Buccaneer
    Full Member

    And my wheel may not be 100% true either. I should probably RTFM shouldn’t I

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    R_B , Park agree with you ..

    https://youtu.be/tXfvW0L3iLM (2.29)

    Looking like Lifeline, will be what I buy.
    Cheers guys.

    MTB-Idle
    Free Member

    Mk I eyeball, for the use of.

    Poopscoop
    Full Member

    You do indeed rotate the wheel with the tool. You must measure the same point on the rim to allow for a slight buckle.

    paton
    Free Member
    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    You do indeed rotate the wheel with the tool. You must measure the same point on the rim to allow for a slight buckle.

    But it’s still ~2″ closer to the back of the wheel than the front as the mech hanger is ~1″ off center.

    I usually test it at ~10:30 and 4:30 positions where it’s about equidistant first and if that’s fine not worry about the rest so much.

    flicker
    Free Member

    Very easy to make your own, M10 fine thread bolt, nut and washers, a length of square bar and a rule.

    enigmas
    Free Member

    Used the lifeline one a fair few times recently, what with eagle mechs being massive.
    Works well though with no issues.

    pipm1
    Free Member

    If you have an old wheel it can screw into the mech hanger, then use it to adjust until the intersects of the two wheel crossover points are equidistant (or rotate one point between the two crossover points).

    Poopscoop
    Full Member

    thisisnotaspoon
    Subscriber
    You do indeed rotate the wheel with the tool. You must measure the same point on the rim to allow for a slight buckle.

    But it’s still ~2″ closer to the back of the wheel than the front as the mech hanger is ~1″ off center.

    That’s correct, but the “pin” on the 2 types ive used slide along it’s shaft to allow for that. So you can test at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock if you really needed/wanted to.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    I always check at 4 positions. Corrects for both latitudinal and longitudinal variation.

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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