- Real bike weights and UK when is toolight or heavy…..
Oddly enough I weighed my bike on the bathroom scales for the first time since i’ve owned it as I was a bit curious. I adopted the (Me+Bike)-Me = Bike Weight approach.
So my Pace 405 with XC719 wheels, Rev Dual Airs, SLX gears and a bit of mud came in at 14.2kg (31.3lbs).
I’m fairly indifferent about the weight and can’t say i’ve got a burning desire to reduce it. I think a rider skill upgrade is the most useful thing I can do…Posted 5 years agoMidlandTrailquestsGrahamMember
To tell the truth, I was a bit disappointed that a bike that cost this much, with so much carbon and titanium, still weighs 10.8kg.
Even if I lost the bottle cages and bar ends and got a carbon seat post, I don’t think I’d get it under 10kg, so, for me, that’s about as light as you can get.Posted 5 years agodavosaurusrexSubscriber
My XL Turner Sultan with 3×10 XT, Revs, 2.35 Hans Dampfs, Hope M4s, Pacenti TL28 and Reverb comes in at 32lb dead. Would like to get it closer to 30lbs so am changing 203/180 rotors for 183/160, braided hose for nylon, maybe a Nobby Nic on the back, lock ons for foam grips, maybe a carbon bar, might try tubeless. Can’t think of anywhere else I’d be happy to compromise to save weight.Posted 5 years agoamediasMember
normal ‘real’ bike weights are in the 25 – 35lbs range depending on size, build, travel etc, obviously some will be outside that but as general rule.
I’ll quite happily pedal a 35lb full susser around all day if there are some bigger downs to be had but > 35lbs and it starts to wear you down after more than 3 or 4 hours.
I also have a ~ 19lbs Carbon XC bike, and if I’m being totally honest, it’s quite unpleasant on ‘normal’ rides, skittish and a bit of a handful, but its proper quick for when you’re in a head down and pedal mood.
Rider makes far more difference than a few lbs of bike difference, but its always nicer to have lighter if durability and performance not compromised.Posted 5 years agotomcanbefoundMember
Just a shade over 23lb (10.5kg) for my Soul with SID’s, 1×10 and no dropper.
Feels perfectly comfy and composed, but then im not that heavy and a bit of a mincer. More than enough bike for trail centers though imho.
Amedias: Rider makes far more difference than a few lbs of bike difference, but its always nicer to have lighter if durability and performance not compromised.
+1 quitting smoking made much more difference to my ride than upgrading from my rockhopper!Posted 5 years agovondallySubscriber
re reading the weight weenies section, i just cannot credit some of the weights, increbibly light but when for UK trails, so riding up, down across things like lakes/peaks natural stuff does a weight become too light or too heavy?Posted 5 years ago
And what are folks bikes ‘real weights’?vondallySubscriber
i with amedias…somewhere for me between 26lbs and 33lbs for UK all the light bikes I have owned either broke or inspired only skittish fear ……some of the heavy bikes have been great but 35lbs plus does drag.hence the medium ground of 26 to 33 still climb and descend
Yeti asr 7 32/33lbsPosted 5 years agomosSubscriber
I weighed my XL 5 spot the other day & it’s nearly 36lbs, which did come as a bit of a disappointment but it’s a pretty heavy build with coil CCDB shock & coil pikes plus freeride inner tubes & a dropper post. Like amedias mentions above, it’s a bit of a drag on longer rides but its absolute butter on the downs.Posted 5 years agotmb467Subscriber
A smidgeon over 35lbs but with a fair bit of deore. M4s aren’t light, and neither is an XT back wheel but its strong enough to hammer the downhills and compensate for my mistakes
It pedals ok uphill as long as I’m fit – I’m happy enough to lose a few pounds to make up for the bike being heavy. It does drag after 4hrs thoPosted 5 years agoJolly Green GiantMember
My Giant Anthem X with XT groupset,Roval wheels,Racing Ralphs,carbon bars,etc comes in at 24.6lbs with pedals.
I would struggle to get it lighter without serious spending. Can`t imagine achieving a sub 24bs full suss bike that was still trail worthy unless you had very deep pockets.Posted 5 years agowobbliscottMember
I think weight is given far too much focus when it comes to bikes. Unless you’re seriously competing and chasing seconds, I really think people overplay its importance – it certainly doesn’t define what is a good or bad bike on its own. I’ve gone from a low 20-odd lb XC hardtail to a circa 32lb full susser and pedalling, I can’t really notice a significant difference. It certainly isn’t preventing me from riding the terrain and distances I rode on my other bike. I have slowed down a bit on the steeper longer climbs, but i’m getting quicker as I’m getting fitter. The heavier bike rides much better too – which is probably largely related to its geometry rather than weight, but the extra weight has not significantly caused me any problems or detracted from the fun of riding. You’re better off losing weight from you than your bike.
For me – for a good rugged all-rounder HT bike (rather than a lightweight XC racer), i’d be expecing 28 ish lb’s, and for a good rugged full susser (Trail/All-Mountain 120 – 140mm travel) 28 – 33lb’s. (My mate’s Yeti 575 comes in at 28lb – weighed, my Covert 32lb on paper – not weighed). I wouldn’t expect much weight saving with a carbon framed bike – carbon is not that much lighter than Al Alloy and a comparison with like for like bikes, the weight savings are miniscule, sometimes no weight saving at all.Posted 5 years agomattjgSubscriber
29er SS rigid 20lbs
29er HT 27lbs
29er FS 30lbs
All with droppers and pedals and a bit of gunk.
I used to think weight was about climbing, then I got the SS, put a dropper on and rode it down some singletrack, it’s like riding a cloud.
Weight’s about handling not efficiency I now think. Light is good.Posted 5 years agodocrobsterMember
I’ve had hardtails from 26 1/2 to 32 lbs and FS from 30 to 33lb.Posted 5 years ago
Notice the weight more when lifting bike over stiles, onto rack etc than when riding. Now at 27lb HT 32lb FS.
The FS is harder to pedal for any length of time uphill because of suspension bob and draggier rubber rather than the weight difference, but is much faster on rocky downs because of those things too.
I could get the HT lighter by losing the dropper and putting silly light rubber on it but that would spoil the enjoyment of riding it.
Chasing low weight seems pointless unless you are racing (and strava doesn’t count as racing) 😆TrimixMember
Its one of those easy to measure stats, but in real life riding it matters little.
Geometry and tyre pressure matter more.
Racing round Bristol Bike Fest as fast as I could I shaved 10% off my lap times by going from my freeride style Covert (30+lbs) to a light weight HT Cotic (25ish lbs I think).
But that was me trying to race, I wouldnt normally ride around like that and try to keep up that pace.Posted 5 years ago
+1 amedias its rider weight thats more significant and cheaper to remove 🙂 What CX bike for Bike Fest?
Also having sensible components that allow you to hammer down makes you faster and rider weight and fitness is the major issue going up hill.
Imagine being 2 – 3 kg lighter and the speed that would provide – kinda puts removing the bottle cage in perspectivePosted 5 years agoBadlyWiredDogSubscriber
Real life 25.5lb for a hardtail with 150mm fork, a 2.5 Minion DHF up front and a 2.25 Ardent at the back. Goes like stink up climbs of which there are lots, doesn’t feel remotely fragile, but it’s not a cheap bike. I find anything much over 28lb or so tends to feel a bit slow when you’re booting it up short, steep climbs in particular. But it depends on how you ride.
You can do a lot with fast tyres, particularly on less steep stuff – I was looking at a review of the Cotic Rocket which got a lot of plaudits for ‘not riding like a 30lb bike’ and noticed in the pics at least, it looked like it had a Maxxis Ikon out back, which is a very fast rolling bit of rubber. I’m not saying it’s the only reason it felt quick to those journos, but it sure as hell wouldn’t have hurt.
Stick a pair of Super Tacky High Rollers on the same bike and I bet it wouldn’t have felt quite so ‘light’…
But anyway, I’d rather have grip and some durability rather than outright speed and fragility – my 22.5lb full sus race bike is an awful Peaks trail bike, feels breakable – but up to a point, usually an expensive one, you can have both.Posted 5 years agoDaveRamboSubscriber
I think weight does matter when you compare a 32lb bike with one 10 lbs lighter.
a pound or 2 makes little real difference.Posted 5 years ago
What makes a bike too light or too heavy is dependent on budget and what you want to do with it. Too heavy for a race XC machine is 25lbs, too light for a DH moster is 25lbs.maxtorqueMember
My XC race bike is annoyingly 10.05kg (with pedals, so i’m claiming a moral “under 10kg” rating 😉
my 150mm FS was 11.7kg from the factory but the addition of a dropper post, a different shock, larger front brake, and some flat pedals has seen this creep up to just under 13kg. Quite a diffence
The difference between the two is more to do with geometery and rider position than the weight, however, you can clearly feel the lower mass and CofG of the race bike when in transitional turns etc, much, much quicker to respond (to the point where i generally nearly fall off the first time i ride it after having been on the FS for a while 😉Posted 5 years agocbmotorsportMember
My Evil Sov is about 31lbs with a KS Lev, Minion/HR, Burly wheels and SLX groupset.
It doesn’t feel heavy when I ride it, and I always think a heavier bike will make me fitter. I do notice the difference as I also have a much upgraded Cube Acid with XT, Rebas, light wheels etc. But unless i’m doing an epic XC ride, it’s the Sov I choose every time.Posted 5 years agoandrewniMember
Just been out with the kitchen scales, Dh bike is 45lbs, ouch. Though it has big dual plys and dh tubes on at the min
Anthem is 26lbs which I’m pleasantly surprised by given that its on its way back towards being an Xc bike having been my dh/am/trail/Xc/pub bike for the last year.
I’ve never looked at the weight of a component when shopping
I add a further 190lbs to the equation ……Posted 5 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
Heaviest- well. Obviously there’s no weight where it’s suddenly too heavy, 32lbs is fine but 32.1 isn’t? Nah. Also different bikes carry their weight differently. I reckon once they hit mid-30s they start to be a bit too much of a lump, it takes quite a lot to balance that.
Lightest- I got my Soda down to sub-20lbs, largely by taking bits away entirely. And to be honest, it’s a handful. Great fun but there’s many times when a heavier bike is easier to ride, it just takes so little to move it- a little rock can kick it aside, and a messy pedalstroke causes it more bother. Was riding it at the weekend and went to pedal up a rock step, accidentally wheelied without expecting it. Stuff like that. When it was a few lbs heavier it needed less thought to ride.
(this isn’t a criticism, it’s all as intended, but it’s definitely past the point where lighter = better.)Posted 5 years agotakisawa2Subscriber
SIR.9 comes up at 22lb. Could go lighter, Niner steel forks probably +0.5lb over the carbons, wheels are Surly SS hubs on TN719 with 2.35 (tubed) Ralphs so a set of Pro2’s on Stans & tubeless might save 1lb. M647’s probably +0.25lb on something lighter. Before the Niner I had the same kit on a 29er Inbred, & it felt lots heavier. Not badly so, but the Niner has a livlier feel to it.
FS Ventana El-Ciclon is exactly 30lb. Not exactly built light so could shave 2lb easy enough. Don’t ride it enough to warrant it though.Posted 5 years agogrumMember
I would guess mine is around 33lbs but I have no idea really. It’s a Pitch with 36 vans, dhx5 and a reverb. Feels awesome and I don’t mind riding/pushing it up almost any hill including some big uns like Ben Lomond and Helvellyn. Mostly ride in the Lakes and do the odd uplift day/trips to Europe in summer.
I never usually ride more than 4-5 hours though and I wonder if I would on a lighter bike.Posted 5 years agoaracerSubscriber
About 9.8kg as pictured – including pedals, but not the seatpack – has had a few changes since and got a little heavier, but should still be <10kg. Not what you’d want for throwing down Fort Bill, but perfectly capable on normal trails. There are a few on here with lighter sussers though.
Oh, and I’ve never wished it was heavier – have done events which involve significant amounts of bike carrying, and for that a lighter bike really does make a difference.
Metric is a much more sensible system to use for measuring stuff, granddad.Posted 5 years agonjee20Subscriber
Mine got to 19.7lbs IIRC (real weight, on my scales at least!) by fitting a Furious Fred:
It’s since got about 0.5lbs heavier – a better front rotor; I found the KCNC a bit lacking in power. I generally use larger tyres now; tend to go for 2.25″ rather than 2.1″ Schwalbes now. I changed the I-Links to normal Shimano cable, although I’ve got some Quaxar stuff to try that is really light, hopefully will last well!
I love it frankly. I’ve got two sets of wheels, but prefer how it rides with the lighter ones, the heavier (which are still DT240s on Alpines, so it’s relative) ones just make it seem a bit sluggish.
I don’t ride too many rocky places, done Afan and Brechfa (on the 1246g wheels) and Haldon and Dalby and various other places on it with no ill effects though! It’s never going to really excel on technical rocky sections, but then neither do I frankly!Posted 5 years ago
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