Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 46 total)
  • RaceFace SixC cranks-another one bites the dust
  • Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Felt a bit of knocking from my cranks, checked to see if the pedals had play in the bearings. Nope. Both pedals inserts are visibly loose in the cranks. They’re a few years old now and not sure I have proof of purchase still. What’s the warranty like on these?!

    Premier Icon RicB
    Full Member

    Lifetime for the original owner I believe. You still ha e the receipt don’t you…

    My riding buddy just just had to warranty his Next SLs as the metal cinch insert worked loose on the drive side

    Premier Icon RicB
    Full Member

    Ah- just read the bit about not having proof of purchase!

    Premier Icon fathomer
    Full Member

    I’ve had 3 sets of Next SL all go the same way. Now on Next R’s as they’re stronger apparently. Time will tell I guess!

    Premier Icon martinhutch
    Full Member

    Credit card/bank statement would do as proof of purchase.

    Premier Icon tomhoward
    Full Member

    Lifetime of the crank for the original owner

    That’s what the website indicates for their top end alloy cranks, couldn’t find anything on carbon, but its a starting point i guess

    Premier Icon Onzadog
    Free Member

    Mine went back recently at just under two years. I thought it was lifetime but retailer seemed to think it was two years. Cranks were replaced but technically, the original warranty stands so the replacements would only have a matter of months on them. Pretty shit really.

    Swapped for turbines

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Full Member

    Ironically the best crank RF make these days is the Aeffect, while their really expensive ones are all shit. What annoys me is people always go “oh, carbon”- there’s nothing wrong with carbon, it’s just that they make really bad carbon cranks. (source: broke 2 sets of Next SLs)

    On the bright side, I have some decade old XTRs that weigh about the same as Sixcs and aren’t made of rotten sticks.

    Premier Icon russyh
    Free Member

    I got my money back when my 3rd set of Sixc failed with the same pedal insert issue.  Great cranks when working.  But too fragile I’m afraid.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    I’ve accepted I’ll just have to buy some new ALUMINIUM cranks. The carbon SRAM ones on my other bike have been fine for 3 years.

    Premier Icon Poopscoop
    Full Member

    I’ll be sticking with my Turbines then….

    Premier Icon fd3chris
    Free Member

    I just bought some new Atlas cranks for my new build. I have never had any carbon cranks due to posts like this one but I have had plenty of RF alloy cranks and never had any problems.

    Premier Icon Speeder
    Full Member

    Anyone ever just Epoxied them back in if they’ve bought them 2nd hand and can’t get them warrantied? Lots of good adhesives available for such a job. . . . . .

    Premier Icon russyh
    Free Member

    I had thought about it, if only because I have experience of dealing with epoxy and carbon and have a load of epoxy still within date.  However in the end I asked. CRC for my money back.  If I had of bought them used then 100% I would glue them

    Premier Icon lornholio
    Free Member

    Race Face carbon crank warranty period is 3 years.

    “Lifetime” warranty of any product means the lifetime of the product, which I would expect a manufacturer to state as 3-5 years maximum for any cranks but it’s probably their decision on a case by case basis.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    I don’t think I fancy glueing them, I don’t think I’d trust myself to do a job that I would trust! They’ll go in the bin.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Full Member

    Thing about gluing them is if it fails you just get the fault back that you had before, which in this case is generally rattly pedals.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    I have visions of the whole lot disintegrating on a downhill leading to a spell in an NHS facility. I’m fairly weighty (14.5 stone) so not sure how confident I’d be in a shonky weight bearing component that directly prevents my nads interfacing with my top tube……

    Premier Icon sweaman2
    Free Member

    Coming back to this thread what glue would people recommend? I’ve a set that’s also bitten the dust and out of warranty as brought when it wasn’t lifetime (apparently changed soon after so LBS is seeing if they can do something but not hopeful).

    Premier Icon russyh
    Free Member

    Get a West or SP Epoxy resin handy pack from a Dinghy chandlers, also buy some colloidal silica to thicken slightly.  Don’t buy B&Q epoxy or araldite it’s not the same thing.  Worth buying the proper stuff.  I actually think a proper epoxy repair will last as well as the original job at least!

    Premier Icon hamishthecat
    Full Member

    I’ve glued a set of the RF Next ones.
    <div>I used West System Epoxy 105/205. It’s low viscosity so flows into small gaps easily, although I also drilled 3mm holes into the end of each crank as far as the insert and injected glue under pressure. I don’t think that was necessary though. Any hi flow epoxy should work.</div>
    <div></div>
    <div>I cleaned everything up first by spraying disc brake cleaner into the cranks around the inserts and letting it dry fully.</div>
    <div></div>
    <div>I put glue around the face of the insert, making sure to keep the threads clean, and let it run through the crank to the other side. I didn’t attempt to remove the inserts.</div>
    <div></div>
    <div>It worked on my RF cranks but I also have some SRAM ones with the same problem but couldn’t get those to glue. I think the looser the inserts the better as you can get the glue in better.</div>
    <div></div>
    <div>As Northwind says, the worst that can happen is you end up with the same problem. They are unlikely to explode in a ball of fire.</div>

    Premier Icon sweaman2
    Free Member

    Thanks. Off to google.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Epoxy ordered…..

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Right, West System epoxy mini kit has arrived. @hamishthecat-what process did you follow? Any tips from anyone on the best way forward?

    Premier Icon Poopscoop
    Full Member

    ^^

    Might be worth PMing him mate, in case he misses this post.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Ta, I dropped him a pm so will see what he comes back with.

    Premier Icon hamishthecat
    Full Member

    Evenin

    Sorry, missed the pm. There’s not a lot more I would add to the earlier post – which was actually something I sent to someone who also pm’d me on the same subject.

    My glueing effort was successful on cranks where the inserts were quite loose so there was space for the epoxy to flow in. I didn’t bother with the colloidal silica as I wanted it as liquid as possible.

    I made sure nothing got on the threads and had the epoxy go off next to the wood burner. (#STW)

    Good luck!

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Thanks! Hopefully it’ll work. Drilled 3x 3mm holes at 90 degrees round the bottom of the crank into the insert and pumped epoxy in with a syringe. Also applied it to the faces of the inserts and moved them about to encourage the epoxy into the gaps. Time will tell!

    Premier Icon Poopscoop
    Full Member

    Keep us updated bud!

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Well the repair seems to have worked! No sign of any movement at all and I’ve given them some proper hammer! Result! Thanks for the advice folks 😀

    Premier Icon hamishthecat
    Full Member

    Excellent!

    Premier Icon thewizardssleave
    Free Member

    I have the same issue with the drive side insert loose on my sixc drive side crank arm.

    I’ve already had the same issue a few years ago just after purchasing the bike and canyon sent me a whole new crankset. The warranty is up this time unfortunately.

    Wondering if you could give another update on how the repair is going before I order the epoxy?

    Also where exactly did you drill the 3mm holes on the crank arm to put the epoxy in?

    Cheers in advance

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Sorry I missed this-repair still holding up fine. I drilled the holes in the outside edge of the crank, not the face if that makes sense. I did one at he very top, and the other two at right angles. Think the biggest benefit was dribbling the epoxy into the loose insert at the front and back. Worth making the epoxy as runny as possible.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Another update. Had a massive crash that cracked the pedal cage. The insert is still solid as a rock! Happy days.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Still going strong!

    Premier Icon reggiegasket
    Free Member

    I’m wondering if pedal type – flats vs spuds – makes a difference here.

    I’m on spuds and my SIXCs have been fine – three years in.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Left crank has debonded again, right hand side still fine. Re-drilled and epoxied so fingers crossed it’ll be fixed again.

    Premier Icon kneebiscuit
    Full Member

    Fix didn’t work-might be new crank time

    Premier Icon Poopscoop
    Full Member

    Ah, that’s a pain in the rear mate.

    Premier Icon andysredmini
    Free Member

    Does anyone want to buy a SixC non drive side arm? A few days ago I noticed my pedal was wobbly and checking confirmed the insert has separated from the carbon and the cranks are just out of warranty. I tried my luck with a goodwill gesture from raceface as it seems such a common problem but they said no.
    Alloy cranks from now on for me then. The SixC’s were a warranty replacement from an older set of SixC’s and have only done 600 ish (admittedly hard) miles.
    I have ordered some purple hope cranks as the replacement.

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