- Raceface Narrow Wide Users – General Question
Soory for the thread jack but i have a RF n/w chain-ring and was wondering whether i definately need a clutch mech for the rear and can i use a 10 speed clutch-mech on a 9 speed rear?
No, it’ll work absolutely fine a normal rear derailleur although a clutch mech MAY allow you to get away without any front chain device. In my experience, clutch mechs are great for stopping noise / chain slap but I don’t think they necessarily do all that much for chain retention. I suspect you will probably get away with a narrow-wide ring and a normal derailleur but I haven’t tried it.
You can’t* use a 10spd clutch mech on a 9spd cassette.
*there is a bodge using a SRAM 9spd shifter & shimano 10spd mech with some adaptation. Have a search.Posted 4 years agorighogSubscriber
I’ve got a clutch mech and a N/W sitting in the house ready to go on my Five. I have been running a Bashguard for years and have kind of got used to well just bashing into things.
So who is running a bash with there N/W and what did you go for ?
I was thinking of something like this.
Posted 4 years agoHob NobMember
Not convinced a bash serves much of a purpose when there’s only one ring.
Not sure, pre taco days of LG1’s = lots of broken chainrings on the DH bike.
In fact the second time out on my current bike, got way too loose in a corner, kicked up a big rock & bent the XX1 front ring.
I had an old SRS+ that you can lose the lower half of, so you get the top guide & run that with a bashring. The chunks taken out of the bashring indicate it’s doing something 🙂Posted 4 years agoMadBillMcMadSubscriber
tested last night @endurokid
1×9 with a RaceFace 30T on to an SLX Double chainset.
The 30T just, just fits with no grinding needed.
decided to leave the bashguard off, but kept the front mech on as a chain retention device. No idea if it was needed but I had no problems at all.
We did not do any monster climbs & only rode 20km as it was piss wet,Posted 4 years ago
but all in all quite happy. Trying to get up Winter Hill could be a challenge though.
I ditched a bash ring last year when I went to an open style guide and had no issues. However on new years eve, I ballsed up a rocky section in the Peaks and ground my chain against a rock. It seems ok.
If I was regularly riding rocky tech stuff, I’d get a bash especially if your bike has a low BB.
Other than that I’ve been really happy with my set up so far.Posted 4 years agojamesgarbettSubscriber
I’ve been running a RF NW for a few months now with Zee clutch mech and no chain guide or bash. All good news, shifts really well and no dropped chains even in rocky stuff. I started with a Zee shifter and then upgraded to a Saint but not sure I’d bother again if I had to pay full price. Just using a cheap SRAM 10 speed chain.
Only slight concern is not having a bash having got used to one over several years but so far no damage to chain or ring.Posted 4 years ago
I’ve been using my narrow wide ring since late August and have have ridden is some pretty gtotty conditions and it seems to be holding up well. I live in the Midlands and it’s pretty sandy, so when it gets wet it creates a lovely grinding paste.
I have no idea how long it will last really.Posted 4 years agorazorrazooMember
Had no chain loss issues on mine at all (Zee clutch) and am pretty happy with the gearing (32 11/36) for my riding which does not really involve any massive uphill slogs.
Only thing I have noticed is that in gritty mud (for example Swinley has a sandy grinding paste in the wet) it does get quite noisy, not sure if anyone else has noticed this?Posted 4 years agotheotherjonvSubscriber
Yes. Particularly in the lower gears (bigger cogs) at the back. I ascribe this to:
1/ Chainline is optimised for the middle of the cassette, and if anything a bit offset to the outer part (when looked at closely I reckon chain is straightest on mine in about cog 6)
2/ the tolerance is that much tighter with the wide teeth on the chainring, so there isn’t as much space for the chain to exit the chainring at an angle and it therefore rubs more on the teeth as it exits.
3/ Being least optimised in Cogs 1 and 2 is when I get most noise, but also is when I’m going slowest and therefore hear more (less clattering / wind noise to cover it up)Posted 4 years agochickenmanSubscriber
I’ve set my bike up with a 30 NW and 11-36 and a clutch mech. Not had a chance to try it yet but am hoping that I’ve got a low enough gear for when I’m goosed going up a massive hill at the end of an eight hour ride (30-36 is quite close to 22-28 which is the lowest gear I’ve ever used!).Posted 4 years ago
Am keeping an old 44 ring on as a bash guard and for riding long flat sections (will just lift chain over by hand).Dark SideMember
localhero94 – Member
What are the recommendations for chain length when swapping to 1×10? I’ve just taken off my 38/26 double and put on a 32t up front (36 rear) – do I need to lose some links from the chain to get more tension? (RF n/w, xtr clutch)
I only had to remove one link, going from a triple chain set and long cage rear mech to a 32t and short cage SRAM XO clutch mech, both with a 11:36.
I’ve had zero problems on the two rides I’ve done with this setup so far.Posted 4 years ago
The chain on my Rune is quite slack, but there is a fair amount of growth under compression so I left it to be safe. I get a little bit of chain slap when it gets really bumpy but still not lost a chain yet. Not even when I went over the bars at the weekend.
There is a but of wear to the ring now. All the really wet gritty rides have scored the teeth, but it’s still working well so I’m a happy bunny.Posted 4 years ago
Mines not dropping chains etc so I’ll leave it until it does.
In all fairness it’s not worn any more than my ali Hope chain ring did. I’m guessing that the scoring is because the chain sits tighter on the teeth so any grit (and there’s lots of that at the moment) has no where to go.Posted 4 years agochiefgrooveguruMember
I intend to change my chain every few months so may as well do the same with the ring.
I’ve been rotating three KMC X10L gold chains for the last year – really slows the wear to the cassette and chainring and jockey wheels. With the quick link pliers and no chain guide they’re fast to change – hang up all three and whichever is shortest goes back on. I think three is overkill, will be alternative between two on the new bike.Posted 4 years ago
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