Raceface Narrow Wide Users – General Question
Just taken delivery of my NW ring and I wanted a bit of fitment advice.
I believe the rings are revesible with different graphics either side.
The side with all the ring info, i.e. NW, 104BCD, 32 etc has slightly recessed bolts holes where as the other side with the lairy Raceface graphics aren’t recessed, does it make a difference which way you mount the ring?
I guess this will only make a few MM difference but is one way better than the other to get a slightly better chain line?
Any advice would be helpful!
EndurokidPosted 4 years agoeuans2Subscriber
If you are running a chain device then depending on the device you can only run the ring with the lairy graphics showing, the other side has the counter sunk area which will stop the bolts hitting off the chain device, if you’re not running a chain device then you can have the ring ether way as the bolts will have nothing to hit off, it shouldn’t make any difference to the chain linePosted 4 years ago
Cheers everyone, interesting to hear different opinions.
I’ve just removed the taco and lower roller from my E13 LG1 guide and was going to run the top guide only.
Even though I’ll be running an XO short cage clutch mech with the NW ring I’m not 100% confident that I won’t drop the chain, or should I just remove the guide all together?
Is this combo really that good at chain retention?Posted 4 years agodannyhMember
I have run mine both ways around – initially with lairy graphics on the inside to accommodate my old triple chainset chainring bolts (the lack of a recess this way around meant they fitted OK), now with proper single ring bolts I have it the other way around.
The tightwad in me thinks that maybe once the chainring is ‘hooked’ in one direction after wear and tear, I might be able to reverse it and eke some more life out of it!
Anyone have an opinion on this – not sure if it would just be chainsuck hell or not………………Posted 4 years ago
I use the Works Components version and kept the top guide initially. I finally bit the bullet and went for it without as I had a few solo rides in a row planned.
No issue whatsoever Don’t even think about it now.
Make sure chain is as short as you can get away with.Posted 4 years ago
Cheers for that, I’m guessing running a short cage mech with a clutch I’ll experience very litle chain movement so while my crank is off I may as well go for it and remove the top guide too.
My chain is pretty short as it is so all being well I won’t have any issues with dropped chains.
Other experiences will be good to hear too.Posted 4 years ago
I can’t get my head round how expensive these are.
I run a simple (top) chain guide properly fitted which allows me to use any size single ring and change whenever I want. I cant remember the last time I dropped a chain either (once properly aligned).
dont get me wrong I WOULD have one in a flash. not at 45 quid though for something that will wear out.Posted 4 years ago
I run mine with graphics out (I quite like them, but then again I have Easton wheels) with no chain device and a short cage X9 clutch mech and I’ve not dropped a chain yet. I’m sold on the idea.
With regards to cost, they’re not cheap (I paid £40 for mine) but you do save on a chain guide which are hideously expensive. It also allowed me to sort my chain line out because my E13 guide on ISCG05 tabs wouldn’t work with my Race Face cranks unless it was massively spaced out.
On the flip side, branded chainrings aren’t cheap. Look at how much a Race Face team ring costs.Posted 4 years ago
Before I moved to 1X10 I was running 1X9 with a 34 upfront and 11/32 out back. I managed to ride anything & everything but the climbs were tough to say the least, but I still managed to get to the top slowly!!
Now I’ve moved to 1×10 I run a 32 upfront with an 11/36 outback, IMHO I feel this set up is ideal for any UK trail centre or local natural riding.Posted 4 years ago
I started with a 32 x 11-36 set up, but switched to a 30T (on a 29er, so add 10% back for wheel size, is akin to a 33T front, sort of)
I just found having the 30T gave me a bit more before really having to grunt, conversely not having quite such a big top gear has been barely noticeable.Posted 4 years ago
I am on 34T and it is fine but has become more of an issue as the winter has kicked in. My climbs are generally short and steep so you can grind up them. For longer climbs I think this would be too heavy a gear for me on long days out. Next one will be 32T or it may even be a 30T. I rarely use the 11 on a 34T so a lower bottom gear would be of higher benefit.
RF vs Works – Price and RF go to 30T (works only go to 32)
Hora – I hear you but the benefits of lower weight, less drag and cleaner look (IMO) are all worth it. The WC version has seen 6 months use and it looks in pretty good nick to me. I do maintain my bike well and change chains regularly but I have ridden loads in the last 6 months in all weathers (hmmm why am I not fitter then :?:)Posted 4 years ago
I agree Taz, having no guide up front does look clean and that is definitely the look iI’m going for!
I also agree that the cost of a NW ring is far less than a guide, plus there will be less drag and much less wear across your chain, casstte and ring so all being well you should get a hell of a lot of use out of your £40 ring!!Posted 4 years agokimbersSubscriber
blackspire now have a 30T onePosted 4 years ago
i thought works were doing one now too?
Anecdotally have run a clutch mech accidentally with clutch off with no issues. However,I reckon a clutch mech is the best drivetrain improvement of recent years, and if you offered me a deore clutch or an xt std mech I’d have the clutch every time.
And a 10spd rear mech won’t work for 9 speed, although if you google it there is iirc a bodge with spacers on the leverage arm that can make it work, supposedly.Posted 4 years ago
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