Start with 240, then work your way up 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500 – 3000 if you want a mirror finish. It you jump up the grits too quickly it will just take longer and use more wet and dry paper. Then Autosol or similar as suggested above. A dremel with a polishing wheel would speed things up. Ebay is good for cheap wet and dry.
Someone did a really good job on a set of LX cranks a while back. Cannot find the link though.Posted 3 years agorobdobMember
Some early Shimano Deore DX cranks I did:
Just using Autosol or brasso on its own won’t work. You need to strip the remaining anodising and/or paint off to get to bare metal. Then as said, use all the grades of wet and dry up to 2000 then Autosol or Peek (my favourite). Waxing afterwards helps keep the shine.
It’s a lot of work but very rewarding and a mirror finish looks awesome.
They’ll need a quick going over with the Peek every so often but it only takes a couple of minutes.Posted 3 years agonwill1Member
Check these bad boys out Saint M800 cranks:
Stripped them using caustic soda (nasty stuff) about £4 from wilkinsons then used wet and dry 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1600 followed by autosol to get the polished look, took a little while but look really nice and like a new set!
Ps can anyone post the photo on here?Posted 3 years agonjee20Subscriber
Thrusty’s look good. Too much effort for my liking, but good effort to those who’ve done it.
Out of interest I’ve got Dura Ace polished cranks on my road bike, but I scuff them, obviously it’s only the surface, there’s no anodising to speak of – how much effort are we talking to get them back to ‘new’?
Imagine like this, more like the scuffing on the RH crank, but worse:
Posted 3 years ago
The topic ‘Polishing cranks?’ is closed to new replies.