I am toying with alfining my inbred.

Its the Slot dropout one.

As I haven’t seen one in the flesh, i dont completely understand the limitations of what appears to be the torque arm, or maybe is just the cable mount.

could I mount the hub, with the arm pointing along the CHAIN stay, and then feed the cable into the normal gear stop (is the gear stop far enough back?!) and then run an open cable under the bottom bracket as normal?

or is there a practical reason, other than the sealedness of complete outer cable runs, why the new alfine inbreds have their cables ziptied to the seat stays.

this is my back-end (except its currently single speed)

The Alfine fitting kit has its’ own gear stop built into the arm so no need for a frame mounted stop. This will run inside the driveside chainstay and neatly under the BB shell with a full length cable run to the shifter. Works a treat! I use formula cable/hose guides with a built in cable tie. They look very neat.

Either type of routing will work fine ‘though.

or is there a practical reason, other than the sealedness of complete outer cable runs, why the new alfine inbreds have their cables ziptied to the seat stays.

Yes.

Stevo put the cable stopper in the wrong place on the swapout frames.

Mine’s got black gaffer tape to run it along the chainstay and up the downstube.

See the blue in that picture? That’s the torque arm equivilent – depending on your rear set up you use different combinations of them on each side, you can just make out the green one on the other side. Works a treat.

I love my Alfine road bike, its just perfect for me.

Alfine hubs are frankly, rather awesome

i did notice that the stop was very close to the hub on the new ones, so figured that was the reason.

but from what travelling man says, on MY version, i can run an open cable.
I realise off road closed cables are by far the best, but for my road inbred, the cables are cleeean.

tempted, if i alfine it, to use the other cable stop to run a cable disk brake, though this would require fixing a stop onto the chainstay somehow…

I have nothing to say about Alfine hubs, but I really like the fact that you said please in your post title instead of barking a demand for people to talk to you. Bravo.

On my fourth winter of Slot In-bred and Alfine. They work great in the winter gloop and slot In-bred are perfect for them.

Open cable will not work well – everytime you retension the chains or remove the wheel you will have to set up the cable again. far better to use a full length cable

Agreed. I run a full length outer and have had the same one on for all the time.

I am just about to fit one to my Roadrat this afternoon, I was wondering the same about the cable stops as The ones I have seen form Cy all have the full length cable cable tied to the frame.

surely, as long as there is enough slack between the stop, and the wheel to account for the movement, it shouldnt make any difference.
the stop, to the hub, although only being 6cm or so, still acts as an outer, and therefore has the flex…

although i see where you are coming from, that is handy to know and consider…

i might see if i can get a rollamajig in there, just to be niche (and as ive got one or two spare somewhere

Alfine’s feel squishy and ‘disconnected’, they also dont change well under load so require a different riding style off road.

Personally I think they are great for commuters, not so great off road.
Ive owned both 8 & 11 speed, and didnt get on with either off road.

Dont listen to the ‘you dont notice that extra weight’ brigade either. My On-One came alive when I dropped the anchor.

Dont get me wrong, I do like them but I dont think they are refined enough for off road use – yet.
I just learnt to be a better rider on my single speed, thank you for that Mr Shimano.

im pretty sure shimano say there not suitable for off road use.

Transplanted one in from my io id. Still running on the white/chrome drop out tabs. Could do with changing them at some point to get a better line for the cable, but it’s been fine so far. If yours has the horizontal drop outs, then white/chrome would be what you needed. My cabe runs along the chainstay then under BB and up.
I’ll echo what slimjim said with regards to the shifting. It IS annoying when you are cranking up a challenge and you need to change and the hub doesn’t want to move under heavy load. That little lift you need to do can make the difference between making it up and not.
I’m running 34-18 on mine.

Olly – Member

surely, as long as there is enough slack between the stop, and the wheel to account for the movement, it shouldnt make any difference.

I was envisaging you trying to run just the inner from a frame stop to the hub. If you have a piece of outer between the frame and the cable stop on the hub – like a rear mech -it will work fine

Tablesalt – as various manufacturers specify them in offroad bikes I don’t see why not.