Peter Poddy's fork lockout thing from ages ago…

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  • Peter Poddy's fork lockout thing from ages ago…
  • …well I found it on an old thread, but do I need the same kit for a 100mm Reba RL from a 2014 Trek?

    Here’s the guide… https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1AoGIWBz4H1YWNhYWRkODYtNzRiNi00YTA1LTlmMjctNmQzOWQwMDdiZGFl/view?hl=en&pref=2&pli=1

    Here’s the TF Tuned page… http://www.tftuned.com/motion-control-knob/p1974

    The middle one is the one PP specifies in his tutorial. Is that the right one for the fork I’m doing it to?

    Nobody? It’s far from the most obscure question asked on here.

    Premier Icon cinnamon_girl
    Subscriber

    Try sending him an e-mail?

    PeterPoddy
    Member

    BOOM!

    Still got it, handily on Google Drive…. Fill yer boots!

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1AoGIWBz4H1YWNhYWRkODYtNzRiNi00YTA1LTlmMjctNmQzOWQwMDdiZGFl/view?usp=sharing

    Its 11-12 years old now I think, modern forks are different, a 2014 fork will only bear a passing resemblance!

    Premier Icon jekkyl
    Subscriber

    there are 2 types to replace, best way to ensure you’re getting the right one is to take the top off your present one and buy the one that matche. Although it’ll likely be the newer one.
    Search amazon as well.

    Premier Icon welshfarmer
    Subscriber

    Looked into doing this on my 2014 forks but the lever mechanism is held on with an allen head bolt rather than a circlip. All the kits I have seen seem to be for the circlip fixing. Any idea where to buy the knob kit for the later type lever assembly?

    mark90
    Member

    I have 2014 Reba RL and 2010 Sektor RL, both have the allen head bolt.

    The 2014 Reba default to locked with the remote disconnected, the 2010 Sektor default to open with the remote disconnected. Seems like they have reversed the spring direction.

    Happy to leave both forks unlocked, which is simple on the Sektor, but will have o disconnect the spring on the Rebas next time I service them.

    core
    Member

    I have 2 reba’s – a circa 2012 26″ model and a 29″ model of unknown age, I have followed Peter Poddy’s guide on both to fully remove the spring in the damper cartridge, it’s a doddle.

    My 2 forks have opposing spring directions, which is a pain, as I sometimes get mixed up and leave the fork locked out for descents……

    I was going to get new top caps, both need the allen bolt type rather than circlip, but so far my small washer held in under the original grub screw for the remote lever cable is working a treat. Pretty it ain’t – functional it is. 😆

    You can secure it open using a tiny bit of cable on the fork leg thingy, but it’s a bit of a faff. This has worked well for ages (EDIT and I assume is what you’ve done core), but she would now like to be able to switch it from locked to unlocked on the fork leg. Replacing the poploc is not an option because a) it was shit and stopped working and b) she couldn’t tell which was locked and which was unlocked 🙄

    core
    Member

    When you get the cartridge out you can take it apart, the top section just unscrews, then pull spring out and reassemble. Top cap won’t pop back then, it’s just manually contollable.

    I need a top cap though, unless you mean just turn the thing the cable used to attach to?

    core
    Member

    You can trap a washer under the grub screw that used to hold the cable for the remote lockout, it acts as a handle to turn it.

    I think you may have missed the point?

    If you want to have a manual lock out then you need to get the right hand fork leg apart, first take the top cap off, then unscrew the large hex head from the top of the fork leg. The cartridge will now pull out (do this slowly to allow fluid to drain back down, and use a rag).

    Once the cartridge is out, if you look inside you will see a coil spring wrapped around a central shaft, hooked over a roll pin near the top – it is this that makes the top cap spring back all the time, and what you are trying to overcome.

    You can simply unhook the spring off the pin and reassemble, or like I did, dismantle the cartridge further – the main body will unscrew from the top part with the large hex head. If you do this the spring can be removed completely.

    Either way, when you put it back together the top cap won’t snap back like it did before, you’ll be able to manually control it, open, locked, and anywhere in between.

    Obviously the top cap has nothing to grab hold of to turn it, so if you get a small washer you can trap it under the grub screw, as in my first paragraph up there ^^^

    Entirely missing your point is exactly what I did – I realised last night when I read through it again but it was too late to edit my halfwittery

    I get it now though 🙂

    core
    Member

    Hope you get it sorted!

    I did, just finished. Very straightforward, although oddly, the knob stayed in either position even with the spring still attached. I unhooked it anyway. Of course, your solution of clamping a wee washer under the grub screw to make a knob isn’t satisfactory – “that’s hard to turn, that hurts my thumb” she says 😆

    core
    Member

    In fairness, I removed the spring in mine because it wasn’t doing anything, at least not when I wanted it to – so the remote was always sticking. I thought the knob would stay put buth then a big hit would free it up again, when you least expected/wanted it.

    £25 knob it is then!

    Hmm, or WTFU perhaps.

    core
    Member

    Thought for the day – do the washer thing and mould some sugru over it to form a more pleasant handle?

    In the end I bent two of three sides of the washer up – like a tricorn hat with one edge flat – which makes it tolerable to operate with a glove on.

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