Question to STW members on their experiences..
Can anyone tell the difference (better or worse) in the different brands of oval chainrings out there?
In particularl each appears to use their own ovality (10-12% range typical) and clocking (approx. 110-115 degree range)

I ask as I am creating a design for some that will be cut from stainless steel, and my own experience is only a cheap eBay copy with no specified ovality and basic 90 degree clocking.

Thanks

I’m running Garbaruk on one bike (38 tooth, 108 degrees, 12%) and absolute black on others (50 tooth, 108-109 degrees, 10%). In my defence I had to look those figures up first, I’d never checked before now.

Trying not to think about it too hard and just go on first impressions, I remember the Garbaruk felt immediately ‘nice’ when I tried it out for the first time, and I would have been conscious of any differences to the AB rings as I ride them regularly on both road bikes.

However, the Garbaruk might just have felt ‘nice’ because it was new, or the drivetrain had just been freshly waxed, or I had good legs that day…

So not very conclusive I’m afraid, sorry!

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=wMgEBAAAQBAJ&pg=PA178&lpg=PA178&dq=phil+burt+oval+chainrings&source=bl&ots=fFYCFz_um5&sig=6yYUUjvf5mtD2kkmNNtcB_c4Iks&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjr6t2MkOfRAhXpAMAKHe2qDLkQ6AEIIjAB#v=onepage&q=phil%20burt%20oval%20chainrings&f=false

Thanks @Paton, I have read a lot of the available studies and reports. Most of which indicate that the ovality and clocking are personal preference, or vary depending on bike geometry.

Rotor also appear to back that up in the video, where the software says position 3 but he’s told if it feels better in position 2 then run that.

@13thfloormonk , this is the experience I think most will have. Elite athletes may notice the slight variations but the majority of fitness/recreational cyclists may not.

Finding anyone other than elite athletes that have tried different designs and spent time thinking about it will be a challenge.
Is it worth asking different teams what they run, then looking up from there. Assuming they will tell you, and that they have bothered trying different designs.

I can tell the difference between 12.5% (Rotor CX1) and 10% and I prefer 12.5.
I also really like 16% on the QXL rings but they aren’t available in smaller/NW sizes so I don’t get chance to ride those much nowadays.

I’ve tried the cheap ebay rings with 90deg clocking, which doesn’t feel good to me, so I avoid them now. Currently using Wolftooth camo steel on the 29er, and Hope on the FS, and Rotor 12.5% on the roadie

I’ve ran an absolute black on my Stooge for ages and really liked it. But now have a round ring and don’t really notice much difference.

Some of the rotor ones I’ve seen are quite complex shapes rather than just being oval. I was told in a bike shop that the clocking and shape can be dialled in when they watch your pedalling style on a static bike. This all costs a fair bit and as I’m tight I didn’t try them out.