Ooops look what happened to my mates hub!

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  • Ooops look what happened to my mates hub!
  • waihiboy
    Member

    Sending it back for replacement…

    owenfackrell
    Member

    There seems to be a fair bit of damage to the freewheel splines as well.

    Premier Icon piedi di formaggio
    Subscriber

    So how’d he do that?

    Gold
    Member

    That’s not the first hope hub I’ve seen that happen to. A mate of mines did the same about 18 months ago. Hope sorted it out nice and quick though.

    Dibbs
    Member

    Wouldn’t have happened to a CK 🙂

    Hope sorted it out nice and quick though.

    But did they pay for the wheel rebuild?

    Premier Icon DezB
    Subscriber

    Look at the state of that freehub. Is he using a cheap cassette?

    that must be one loose cassette

    Dibbs
    Member

    Is that rust showing through the crack (indicating that its been like it for a while).

    geetee1972
    Member

    Dibbs – I didn’t break the shell of my CK but I did fracture the axle. And those tooth marks on the freehub are the consequence of using a road cassette. It’s because the sprockets are mostly individual rather than multiples on a splined carrier. The torque is significantly greater and as a result the freehub gets these characteristic teeth marks.

    It’s about time they started making close ratio MTB cassettes for DH

    Offroading
    Member

    The damage to the freehub happens if you use any cassette with individual cogs on an alloy freehub – no avoiding it. It doesnt do anything other than look a bit tatty.

    hora
    Member

    I think his wheel is broken.

    deadlyhifi
    Member

    some of that metal putty they sell down at the handyman’s will sort that. Good as new.

    uplink
    Member

    A couple of hose clips & the job’s a good’un

    I did that to a DT hub once. Switched to Hopes and never had a problem since!

    KINGTUT
    Member

    The damage to the freehub happens if you use any cassette with individual cogs on an alloy freehub – no avoiding it. It doesnt do anything other than look a bit tatty.

    No, it’s caused by using a cassette with a steel carrier rather than an alloy one.

    Don’t think much of those tiles, perhaps you could clean the grout

    richc
    Member

    KingTut thats what he’s saying, road cassette’s don’t have a carrier hence the damage.

    GavinT
    Member

    I did that to a DT hub once. Switched to Hopes and never had a problem since!

    Hmm, you know that that’s a Hope Pro II up there right?

    That said I’ve never had a problem with Hope hubs.

    Yep, Gavin, that’s why I said it. Odd to have seen that happen!

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    I dunno where you get the road cassette thing from, Ultegra 6500 and Dura Ace 7700 both have sprockets on alu spiders, like XT and XTR do on the MTB. Cheap cassettes have individual sprockets, decent ones have a carrier.

    xc-steve
    Member

    Nothing a zip tie won’t fix!

    >Is that rust showing through the crack (indicating that its been like it for a while)

    It’s an aluminium shell so it won’t be rust (not on the hub shell anyway) what you can see is probably part of the ratchet/pawl mechanism

    Offroading
    Member

    Regardless of what cassette was used – how is that going to cause the hub shell to split ? The freehub isn’t attached to the hub shell, it sits on the axel and whatever freehub system used clicks agaisnt the hub.

    If anything strain on the freehub is more likely to break the freehub itself not the shell.

    GavinT
    Member

    Separate issues.

    Premier Icon takisawa2
    Subscriber

    Pah…there’s another year or two in that wheel yet.
    Stop whinging.

    brakes
    Member

    are ProIIs designed for DH use?

    Dibbs
    Member

    It’s an aluminium shell so it won’t be rust (not on the hub shell anyway) what you can see is probably part of the ratchet/pawl mechanism

    Really? thanks for sharing that with me. 😕

    richc
    Member

    brakes – Member

    are ProIIs designed for DH use?

    Hope so, as they sell 150mm versions.

    Premier Icon Mike_T
    Subscriber

    the only way to go is a steel free hub body, I mashed a hope pro ali up with a PG990………to much power..lol

    knott4me
    Member

    the casette eating the freehub is common im afraid where hope is concerned.

    the steel cassettes eat the freehubs like butter.

    ive never seen a hub fail that severly before.

    im the first to admit im not the biggest hope fan but due to a freebie recently im runnung hope hoops with pro11 hubs so we will see.

    we are all aware though that if its hopes fault they sort it & quick.

    bigyinn
    Member

    I suppose a bearing pressed in at an angle could over stress the alu causing it to fatigue crack in time. The rust is prob from the ratchet ring in the hub, perhaps excessive corrosion has caused the ring to expand (by rusting) against the hub shell and splitting it?

    Premier Icon Mr Agreeable
    Subscriber

    I think the same thing happened to someone else’s hub on here, was it Gingerflash? For what it’s worth, I have two sets and never had a problem with either. I did have a struggle removing a cheap steel cassette from one but it wasn’t seriously damaged, just a few little nicks in the splines. I don’t think it’s an issue in use, only when you need to remove the cassette.

    Geetee1972, SRAM have just brought out a close ratio DH cassette, the PG970 DH, although it’s built for strength rather than weight and has a steel carrier. Nice red spacers though.

    Premier Icon takisawa2
    Subscriber

    Do Hope do a steel freehub body…?

    Premier Icon rickmeister
    Subscriber

    Exactly the same happened to mate in Spain last year. An identical failure. It just let go as he was riding along up a climb. Went off with quite a crack…. All sorted by hope though….

    james-o
    Member

    anything to do with a drum-tight wheel build, ie spoke tension and a bump cracked the hub? I don’t build wheels so i’m speculating.

    Premier Icon Speshpaul
    Subscriber

    “anything to do with a drum-tight wheel build”
    no its more to do with the body being made of extruded billet thats machined in to a hub shape, whether than alloy thats forged in to a hub shape the machined. In extruded billet the molecules generally end up pointing the same way, making it very strong in one plane and not as strong in another. When you forge the shape the molecules end up being more random, thus generally strong.

    Yoyr mate should take it back to the shop that sold him the wheel, his contract is with them, Hope will replace the hub body, and the shop should rebuild the the wheel. (Unless its quite old, that is)

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