Noticed this about 15 miles into a 20 odd mile ride today…

Wasn’t in there at the start, and can think of where it was likely I picked it up which would have been only a few miles into the ride. Anyway, left it in, finished the ride and took it out after. Sealant squirted everywhere, but amazingly, it’s actually holding about 20psi still even with the screw removed!

Tyre really needs patching from the inside though, but just amazed I didn’t even notice picking it up…

…and of course it will be so much easier to patch the tyre than it would be to replace an inner tube…

I hope, like a proper bloke, you stuck the screw in your misc screw box? It might come in handy one day 🙂

I’m always amazed what can get sealed by tubeless setups. Only time I’ve had flats have been when my jizz dried up and from a gash in sidewall, and even that held air for a while until it really started to open up.

What size is it?

Are there still tubeless doubters??

and of course it will be so much easier to patch the tyre than it would be to replace an inner tube..
I think it’s pretty much the same in terms of difficulty.

I think more importantly….without tubeless…..he would have to do both tyre and tube…. 🙄

I don’t believe in tubeless, I think its done with mirrors. 😉

I heard tubeless didn’t work on 650b.

What size is it?

About an inch long, couldn’t tell you what width but the kind you find in flatpack chipboard cupboards and the like. Big enough anyway!

…and of course it will be so much easier to patch the tyre than it would be to replace an inner tube…

No different to replacing a tube really. Only I can do it at home, at my own leisure, cos the tubeless setup allowed me to finish the ride without touching the screw!

…and of course it will be so much easier to patch the tyre than it would be to replace an inner tube…

Not that even patching its that hard, the main point is that he didn’t have to do it on the trail. Not had to do a trail side puncture repair in the 12 months ive gone tubeless. Wish i had converted sooner. I cant think of a single advantage of running tubes.

I have my doubts but am willing to persevere, didn’t help when I got a 1cm gash in the tyre on the 2nd tubeless ride & a big tyre bump after crashing on the uptonogood ride last weekend, thing is with a tubed tyre you can repair the tyre & the tube on the ride – with a tubeless tyre you can stick a tube in the tyre there & then but you still have to effect a repair when you get home to go back to tubeless. Main problem I have at the moment is tyre roll & lack of edge grip, maybe just the combination of rim & tyres (2.35″ nobby nick tubeless ready) so will keep trying but am yet to be convinced :(.

You wouldn’t even need to bother patching the tyre; that’s a perfect candidate for using a Weldtite ‘sticky string’ repair – you wouldn’t even have to unmount the tyre.

DezB – Member
Are there still tubeless doubters??

and of course it will be so much easier to patch the tyre than it would be to replace an inner tube..
I think it’s pretty much the same in terms of difficulty.

Actually, if you have one of these and some C02, you’re back riding a lot quicker than the dude with inner tubes – http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7971

I wouldn’t go back to tubes if they were free. YMMV and all that.

Are your trails building sites?

Just a shame its discontinued!

I don’t use C02 if there’s sealant in there already; it can freeze/congeal it into a solid, heavy out-of-balancing lump. I only use C02 to seat tyres tubelessly if I can’t do it with the track pump, then vent all the CO2 before inserting sealant through the valve.

I don’t use C02 if there’s sealant in there already; it can freeze/congeal it into a solid,

But it will defrost, so once thawed you can inflate the tyre again to seal any holes?

It didn’t defrost for me; it congealed into one sticky lump that clung to one side of the wheel. Haven’t mixed C02 and sealant since – it works for me!

Am I the only belts and braces one? I go tubeless and haven’t had a puncture in 3 years,but carry a tyre repair kit,2 xtubes,and a tube repair kit.I have nightmare memories of an autumn Polaris on Exmoor,where I used 2 tubes and 2 full repair kits,as they’d cut the blackthorn hedges the week before.

I’ve never had an issue with co2 and used lots of it. Are you sure your sealant wasn’t old to start with?

butlerjamesp – Member
Just a shame its discontinued!

POSTED 30 MINUTES AGO #

Innovations do one as well. Have a google.

Stan’s don’t recommend use of CO2 with sealant. You can get Argon cartridges if you look, though.

Tyre took a roofing nail on Thu; probably would have stayed up with CO2 if I hadn’t been a quarter of a mile from home and walked the rest. Went up OK when I got home with track pump.

I had a nail like that in my front tyre a couple of weeks ago, with about 30 miles to go on the South Downs Way. I pulled it out and the tyre went down in an instant. However, after a few minutes of pumping (with a crap road pump), it sealed. I completed the ride with no problem and have done about 100 miles since. Still sealed and not losing any air. Had similar in the back tyre with a huge thorn about a year ago. Still up!

Tubeless is ace!

I’ve never had an issue with co2 and used lots of it. Are you sure your sealant wasn’t old to start with?

It was Effetto Caffélatex; maybe less tolerant than others.

I took a longer screw in a tubed tyre a few weeks ago and it was the clunk clunk clunk as it bashed the rim once per rev that worried me. Not for many revs obviously! Surprised you didn’t feel it mboy.

I use stans as I’ve found it to be the best sealant and used it aplenty with co2. In fact, some tyres have been seated and filled with co2, with maybe a small top up from a track pump. No issues at all 😕

bigjim – Member
my jizz dried up and from a gash

😕

😆

I have nightmare memories of an autumn Polaris on Exmoor,where I used 2 tubes and 2 full repair kits,as they’d cut the blackthorn hedges the week before.

Before tubeless presumably? That’s exactly the sort of situation where tubeless means you shouldn’t have any punctures to repair. Personally I still carry 2 tubes but not a repair kit any more.

Aracer,yes exactly,since I ent tubeless,I find thorns broken off in the old tyres when I change them.

I cant think of a single advantage of running tubes.

I can

2 punctures in 5000km. Cost me a total of €6. Actually it didn’t, cos I got those tubes in an order where I needed to spend a few more euros to save €10 on shipping, so they were effectively free.

You don’t hear any stories about people with tubes trying to get the tyre to seat, and bodging inflators from pop bottles, etc.

In effect I’ve done stage one of going tubeless…
1. Put tube in to seat and shape the tyre, inflate and leave for a while
2. undo step 1, and put slop inside (not got around to this yet)

I might pull my finger out and do step 2 one of these days, but can’t see any urgent reason to do so.

edit: oh – should have mentioned, they’re Schwalbe tyres most of the time too, which everyone knows are made of tissuepaper and shred to pieces if they see a stone. (NB the 2 flats were the one time I used Maxxis).

Dunno cant really help you but if it ain’t working for you, then you’re probably doing it wrong. It’s been 2 years since I needed an inner tube and that’s only due the sidewall splitting. Seating issues are very easily overcome. It’s all about technique and finding the right tyre and sealant combo for you and the area you ride 90+% of the time in.

Oops double post.

I was 3/4 of a way round the Glen Tilt ride and round a chuffing great nail in my X-King Racesport. Tyre was still up, but loosing a little air, I used that tyre for a Relentless 24 without patching it.

Just gone tubeless. Spesh 2bliss tyres on stans arch ex. Fitted the tyres and pumped up with my usual trackpump. No dramas, seated/sealed perfectly.

Hmmm. I was out on Thursday and at the bottom of the last descent found my rear tyre half deflated and sealant spraying out from a decent sized hole, looked like Dale Winton had been hanging out the back of me. Hole wouldn’t seal at the trailside but did on the half mile to the pub. Pumped it up to 40psi the next day and after a bit of bubbling it sealed and has done since, not ridden yet. So do I need to repair the tyre or just wing it?

And whilst I’m rambling another thing – watched a few Youtube set up guides on tubeless and some show pulling the tape tight so it seals on the inner shoulders of the rim with a void over the spoke holes and others show the tape pushed down into the rim bed on top of the spoke holes. I didn’t have any luck with the latter as the tape just bunched and didn’t form a seal, the former sealed first time but after about a month I got the bike out of the garage to find the tyre deflated and removing it showed the tape had detached from the rim over about 6″. So am I doing it right, the thought of that sort of instant deflation at speed isn’t pleasant, relying on about 1mm wide adhesion on each side seems a bit dodgy now that this has happened.

Stans say to pull the rim tape tight, so that’s what I did. I wouldn’t bother patching if it’s sealed, my rear tyre has done a year with a hole that I never thought would seal, but did.

I was just about to ask the same question. My lad hit a big square edge today and put a 5mm split in the middle of the tyre. Took ages to seal and was about to give up, but has eventually sealed ( last time I ride with a Topeak road rocket, just won’t shift enough air for big nobblies). So, do I need to patch it or just shove more stans in and take my m:part pump with me next time?

What a coincidence. After posting on this thread, went out for a ride on my only non-tubeless bike (crosser) and got a flippin puncture. First one in years! And guess what.. one of the few times I haven’t had a tube & pump with me.. 🙁 luckily wasn’t far from home.

Are there still tubeless doubters??

All tubeless riders I know carry an inner tube so you tell me Dez ?

EDIT: well except you apparently 😉

PS I wrote that hours ago and forget to send it