- On-One Slot dropout wheel anchoring
if you’re having to adjust the caliper then the chain isn’t growing,
not true – growing chain means hub needs to be moved relative to drop outs. caliper static relative to drop out, needs to be moved to keep up with hub movement.
If you’ve identified that the chain is growing then the answer is that the chain is growing. Unless the chain stay is shortening – and I wouldnt put it past Brant to have incorporated an auto-shortening chainstay as a design feature….
What chain then?Posted 4 years agoNobbySubscriber
If the chain was strcthing that much you’d be skipping over the chainring/sprocket.
What makes you so sure the wheel isn’t being pulled forward slightly? It doesn’t take much movement at the axle to create a fair bit of slack in the chain.
As Stoner says make sure you can lock the tugs in place. I tend to get the tension how I want it, do up the QR then give the tugs a little extra tighten before locking ’em in place.Posted 4 years ago
not true – growing chain means hub needs to be moved relative to drop outs.
sorry, he said he knew it was the chain ‘growing’ as he had to adjust the caliper. I said that the only thing that would cause you to need to adjust the caliper is the hub moving relative to the frame whilst he was riding?Posted 4 years ago
Had no issues with chain skip or drop, I can tell by the fact that I’ve had to drop links out to prevent the wheel coming totally out of the rear of the drop outs that the chain is growing. I don’t doubt that there could be an issue with taking up the slack on threads etc.Posted 4 years ago
I would expect that I would have to readjust the wheel every month or so but not every ride.
I may be a hub masher though, I can wreck a WI freehub outer in a few months.
I can understand accumulative wear over all of those links adding up to a fair bit of slack but not to this extent.
as a 15 stone SSer on the Malverns with very few problems of chain stretch or drivetrain wear, I cant help but think there’s a little bit of user error in here somewhere.
The only problem I have had is my honking pulling on my QR hub so much that I actually pull the QR nut on the NDS forward in the trackend and have had to fit two tugnuts to keep the axle in it’s place. The one tugnut on the DS has kept that side of the hub in he right place without having to faff, for ages.Posted 4 years ago
Following on from the previous thread I have to re-tension my chain after every ride on my Inbred Slot Dropout (26″ wheels). I am using 2 chain tugs, a KMC 510 singlespeed 1/8th chain, HT2 bottom bracket, Salsa front chainring and WI freehub.Posted 4 years ago
After each ride (approx 25 miles) I end up with a good 30mm total of up and down movement at the centre of the chain but fortunately have good chainline so I never drop it.
I have already taken links out to prevent the wheel coming right out of the back of the slots so i know the wheel isn’t pulling forward.
Any ideas – can the chain be wearing that much?emac65Member
I reckon those chains stretch,or rather wear a fair bit John cos mine have always done the same.It’s as flappy as a flappy thing at the moment,but isn’t slipping or dropping off so I’ve left it alone …
& I’m a 13 stone lead piped 29er rider pushing 32:16 up “The Ring” on a regular basis………. 8)Posted 4 years ago
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