On-One Slot dropout wheel anchoring

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  • On-One Slot dropout wheel anchoring
  • Premier Icon Stoner

    what chain tugs?

    are the tensioning bolts loosening off? If they are the type with a nut on the threaded shank make sure the nut is tight up against the tugnut, if they dont have a locking nut, use a drop of loctite.

    Tried both On-One and No-Name tugs from Charlie. The fact that I’m having to drop links out/adjust the caliper position tells me that the chain is growing.

    Premier Icon wwaswas

    if you’re having to adjust the caliper then the chain isn’t growing, the hub is moving in the drop outs.

    Premier Icon Stoner

    if you’re having to adjust the caliper then the chain isn’t growing,

    not true – growing chain means hub needs to be moved relative to drop outs. caliper static relative to drop out, needs to be moved to keep up with hub movement.

    If you’ve identified that the chain is growing then the answer is that the chain is growing. Unless the chain stay is shortening – and I wouldnt put it past Brant to have incorporated an auto-shortening chainstay as a design feature….

    What chain then?

    The caliper is in front of the back wheel hub on my bike and as the chain stretches I re-adjust the back wheel by moving it back so it eventually moves away from the caliper.

    Premier Icon Nobby

    If the chain was strcthing that much you’d be skipping over the chainring/sprocket.

    What makes you so sure the wheel isn’t being pulled forward slightly? It doesn’t take much movement at the axle to create a fair bit of slack in the chain.

    As Stoner says make sure you can lock the tugs in place. I tend to get the tension how I want it, do up the QR then give the tugs a little extra tighten before locking ’em in place.

    KMC 510 1/8th Chain.

    Premier Icon Stoner

    BTW, dont forget to spin the crank when you are checking tenions set up as the chain ring is rarely dead centre relative to the centre of rotation. If there’s lots of variation in chain tension during a revolution you may want to remount your chainring.

    Premier Icon wwaswas

    not true – growing chain means hub needs to be moved relative to drop outs.

    sorry, he said he knew it was the chain ‘growing’ as he had to adjust the caliper. I said that the only thing that would cause you to need to adjust the caliper is the hub moving relative to the frame whilst he was riding?

    Had no issues with chain skip or drop, I can tell by the fact that I’ve had to drop links out to prevent the wheel coming totally out of the rear of the drop outs that the chain is growing. I don’t doubt that there could be an issue with taking up the slack on threads etc.
    I would expect that I would have to readjust the wheel every month or so but not every ride.
    I may be a hub masher though, I can wreck a WI freehub outer in a few months.
    I can understand accumulative wear over all of those links adding up to a fair bit of slack but not to this extent.

    Premier Icon wwaswas

    have you measured the chain with a chain chcker or rule at all?

    No, I will measure over 24 links tonight with a steel rule – that may give me an indication.

    Premier Icon Stoner

    as a 15 stone SSer on the Malverns with very few problems of chain stretch or drivetrain wear, I cant help but think there’s a little bit of user error in here somewhere.

    The only problem I have had is my honking pulling on my QR hub so much that I actually pull the QR nut on the NDS forward in the trackend and have had to fit two tugnuts to keep the axle in it’s place. The one tugnut on the DS has kept that side of the hub in he right place without having to faff, for ages.

    Forgot to mention it isn’t QR, its a DMR Revolver Hub with the allen screw. I have even centre punched the drop outs to give more grip.

    Following on from the previous thread I have to re-tension my chain after every ride on my Inbred Slot Dropout (26″ wheels). I am using 2 chain tugs, a KMC 510 singlespeed 1/8th chain, HT2 bottom bracket, Salsa front chainring and WI freehub.
    After each ride (approx 25 miles) I end up with a good 30mm total of up and down movement at the centre of the chain but fortunately have good chainline so I never drop it.
    I have already taken links out to prevent the wheel coming right out of the back of the slots so i know the wheel isn’t pulling forward.
    Any ideas – can the chain be wearing that much?


    I reckon those chains stretch,or rather wear a fair bit John cos mine have always done the same.It’s as flappy as a flappy thing at the moment,but isn’t slipping or dropping off so I’ve left it alone …

    & I’m a 13 stone lead piped 29er rider pushing 32:16 up “The Ring” on a regular basis………. 8)

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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