Does anyone use one of the 12v pumps to remove the dirty engine oil from their car engine?
How much of the old oil does it leave in the sump?
It seems a lot less messy than undoing sump plug and an oil pan.
Anyone used such a thing?
Thanks
Ian

Bookmarking. Never thought of trying that!

You still need to change the filter, which requires an oil pan so you might as well just do it properly.

My gf clio has a non return valve in the oil filter which means there is v little mess. I do swap filter when i do the oil.

Its a bit of a PSA but lidl have the pumps for about £15 at moment

Ian

I prefer the old fashioned way… Oil flows out fast so more likely to clear crud from the sump, you can check the magnetic sump plug for metal bits, and as above, normally the filter will leak oil down the block.

I’ve dumped the oil drain pan and now use a 20l oil tub with the side cut out. It’s much cleaner as you can still pour it out via the cap so it doesn’t end up down the side of the bottle or a wider stream than the funnel. The crappy Halfords drain can was worst, stupid thing was all draining board and would overflow as the inlet hole was too small, and afterwards the side is covered in oil!

As above a big part of why you do it is to catch any bits of debris..obviously if there’s big chunks of metal on the magnet it’s a good indication of an issue.

Agree on those Halfords drain canisters being a bit rubbish. Did my motorcycle recently, got the engine nice and warm and man, that point where I was reaching the end of the threads on the sump plug trying to predict when it would break free and the gushing commerce was pure adrenalin! 😅

Obviously I didn’t predict it and got hot oil all over my hand and the floor after it gushed over the side of aforementioned Halfords pan….

It’s often done via the dip stick tube these days especially on cars where you can get to the oil filter without removing the undertray (a mission in itself on modern cars).

on cars where you can get to the oil filter without removing the undertray (a mission in itself on modern cars).

The frenchies have that nailed.

Steel undertray WITH a hole at the sump bolt- which also points straight down not out at 90 degrees so the oil goes down into the pan not out the side at various distances from.the car depending on hydrostatic head

I was originally sceptical about doing it but for a small service I use a vacuum sucker down the dipstick hole. If the filter housing is accessable from the top you clean it out with the vac to get all the residual out from its ports.

Also down the dipstick hole after draining from the sump plug pulls out more oil, so take from that what you will.

Also saves getting under the car.

Check on the service advice for the engine. A lot of the bad rep for the 1.6 HDI engines, for instance, is garages ignoring  or being unaware of service spec. One for the requirements in the technical bulletins  for that engine is not hoovering the oil out because of the material that can get left behind

When I had one of those 1.6 HDi’s I always ran a can of flushing fluid through and drained from the sump. It was done every 10-12k miles too, not the ridiculous 20k interval stated. Engine was solid when it was traded in, the rest of the mechanicals not so much. 😀

I’ve got taps on both cars Turn on drain oil out of a pipe then turn off. No mess whatsoever. Asimov or something like that. Designed for the job.

i use the vacuum pumps. Not the elecric ones.

Its brilliant. I do 8k changes on the golf and 3k changes on the rx8. Its one of the best things ive got for the car.

I can get more oil through the tube than i can drain out of the sump. Just a shame i still have to get under the rx8 for the filter.

Get yourself down to Lidl

no more carcinogenic oil down your sleeve

£12.99

https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/car-essentials/ultimate-speed-oil-pump/p29572

One for the requirements in the technical bulletins for that engine is not hoovering the oil out because of the material that can get left behind

That just makes me wonder what the oil filter’s doing if it’s not trapping that stuff.

There is usually a magnet on the sump plug that’s worth cleaning at oil change time.

We have a Smart which has no drain plug; I’ve always used Pela oil extractor. I took the sump off to fix a leak and there wasn’t a significant amount of debris in it. The Pela is sold particularly for boat engines, since there’s not usually access underneath them.

“ELF garages” then “Heron” now both gone used to sell the oil and do a free suck the oil, just dont allow the chap a screwdriver to bash through side of oil filter like was shown on adverts at the time, as if he cant remove the filter, you cant drive the car away .

Tempting to get one of these as on the Passat I’d not have to remove the tray which I hate doing over and over again.

Obviously it’s better for heavy solids such as metal to sit on the bottom of the oil pan rather than clog up the filter. The oil pickup will be designed to not collect crap.

That Lidl pump…

0.2 litre per minute flow rate.
Max operating time of 30 minutes.

So my Civic would take 30 minutes to pump the oil out, and it would need time to cool down before pumping the last of the oil out of my van! I’m sure there are better options out there…

I use a Pela on my petrol V70 but it’s on 5k oil changes and is always clean. The filter is reachable without jacking it up whereas the sump plug isn’t.
I don’t use it on my 10k change Transit diesel.

I use a Pela too, wouldn’t say it’s quicker but there’s no unbolting / jacking (at least on my cars where filter is on top) and a lot less mess.

Just ordered one of these to do oil changes on the caterham, should make it loads easier than taking the sump plug out.

I can get to the filter from the top of the engine too.

At least it prevents Arnold Clark from forgetting to do the sump plug tight.

For home mechanics, if it encourages frequent oil changes then that’ll be good for your engine. I used to put a lower spec than recommended (but free) oil in my Spitfire and change every 1000 miles. When I had to sort out the bodywork, I stripped the engine and it had little wear.

Obviously it’s better for heavy solids such as metal to sit on the bottom of the oil pan rather than clog up the filter. The oil pickup will be designed to not collect crap.

I’m afraid it’s not obvious to me. I’d far rather any solids are trapped in the filter, and a filter that isn’t progressively “clogging up” from the day you fit it isn’t doing any filtering.

I’ve got a Lidl pump, it’s not quick and (for my car at least) it leaves about 0.5 litres or so in the sump, going by the lower than expected amount needed to refill but it’s still handy for an interim (partial) oil and filter change. My oil filter is at the top of the engine and drains down when removed so the pump saves having to mess about with the undertray and restricted clearance under the car.

I’m afraid it’s not obvious to me. I’d far rather any solids are trapped in the filter, and a filter that isn’t progressively “clogging up” from the day you fit it isn’t doing any filtering.

Know what’s infinately worse than heavy solids sitting benign in the bottom of the sump.

Oil starvation

Your methodology would encourage that.

Oil floats on water.

I’ve used a suction pump for 20 years. But always for interim / additional services. Main services / following the manufacturers guidelines – I undo the sump plug.

For diesels – especially in cold climates – a suction pump wouldnt be my first choice. But as above – pumps do encourage additional oil changes which is bound to be a good thing.

I cannot understand the 1.6 hdi not to use the pump as I am positive I read a tech bulletin that said it recommended the use of one. This made perfect sense as the plug on my C5 is recessed. (in fact last year I decided to remove sump to check for gunge and it was spotless, however I had drained through sump at this point to see what was left in – 300ml so draining by sump plug does not remove all oil) the engine takes 3.8 litres so nearly 10 percent is not changed. Other thing to note I use the EXACT spec oil and change every 8000 miles and that oil change was at 72000 miles (had car from 1600 miles so done every oil change) Note also when using pump car has previously been run immediately prior to removing and oil filter removed as more goes to sump on removal.

I’ve used a suction pump on our banger mk4 golf 1.9 PD since we got it. I think it’s been 7 years and 100k ish now since we got it and it still won’t die. It’s had plenty of of other bits though.

I do oil and filet every 10k

180K in and two Aldi car jacks make it a £35, 20 min job every 7/8K, warm and sump plug.
Engine great – rest of car needs fairly constant repairs.
Yesterday’s fun was spring in door handle. Being colour blind I only noticed my lacerations after I wondered why there was odd dark paint all around the door handle and metal. Local brill independent garage saved the day, all the family have used them for the last 30 years. Mechanic who sorted me out is a mountain biker, they’re everywhere I tell thee.

Drove to local town to get tinted film to hide the occasional stored bike – what’s the owners hobby? yep…

two Aldi car jacks

Please tell me that’s a brain fart and you actually meant to say axle stand.

Tempting to get one of these as on the Passat I’d not have to remove the tray which I hate doing over and over again.

Why not just cut a hole in the tray? Or fabricate a basic inspection hatch where the hole should be?

Or fabricate a basic inspection hatch where the hole should be?

Good question – and extend that to ‘Why don’t the manufacturers put a basic hatch in?’ – yes, it would cost a small amount, but it would shorten the time taken for a service, which is a prime criterion for fleet buyers.

Our civic has a metal skid plate set into the undertray, just a few screws to remove it. The van is just 4 bolts to remove the centre section of the undertray. I thought most cars would be relatively simple to access the sump once you’ve raised the car?

Regarding the oil filter and bits in the sump…if heavy particles stay in the sump that is simply acting as a pre filter, suspended solids will get caught in the filter. Can’t see why you would want the engine to suck these larger particles to the oil filter, especially if there is a problem with the filter becoming blocked and the bypass valve has opened which results in unfiltered oil circulating (which is still better than oil starvation)

I have that 1.6hdi engine since 83k.

Every 10k I add an engine flush into the oil get it warm, then use a marine oil vacuum pump (dirt cheap to buy) to pull the oil out the dipstick. Once it is drained I remove the filter without much mess (wiped with a towel).

Now on 182k and just got an emissions value in the nct of 0.02 (against a spec of 1.50), the mpg has stayed at 47.3 on the same 80 mile commute since I got it.

Not used axle stands and the sump plug in 3 years with this car and another 3 with other cars before that.

Am I the only one reading this and thinking it sounds like a terrible idea?

The sump plug is usually the lowest point so draining the oil out properly is the best way to get as much crud out.
The manufacturers would not go to the cost of fitting a sump drain hole, threading it and torquing a sump plug if all you needed was a little suction pipe.

Why don’t the manufacturers put a basic hatch in

Doesn’t even need a hatch.

Hole saw and you have an access hole much as is stock in the steel skid pan on my Peugeot with the 1.6hdi.

Being the outdoor model and stock 20mm lifted suspension I don’t even have to jack it up.

A full filters and fluids service takes 30 mins. Pull sump plug. Open bonnet , change all the filters , fit sump plug and fill the oil.

Every 10k.

Infact none of my cars need jacking up to drop the oil. Van needs 4 screws removed to take out the under tray. Landy needs nothing removed.

The manufacturers would not go to the cost of fitting a sump drain hole, threading it and torquing a sump plug if all you needed was a little suction pipe.

Some don’t. Usually the same ones that have rediculous long service intervals and things like sealed for life gear boxes……

Car makers want to make them as appealing as possible to first owners/renters/fleet buyers.

Couldn’t give a **** about how serviceable / how long they last beyond their rental period/warrentym

That Lidl pump…

0.2 litre per minute flow rate.
Max operating time of 30 minutes.

So my Civic would take 30 minutes to pump the oil out, and it would need time to cool down before pumping the last of the oil out of my van! I’m sure there are better options out there…

Just did my Mercedes, 7.5 litres in about 15 minutes while I faffed with the oil filter.

8 litre capacity so about 0.5 litres left in.

Every main dealer and most garages these days will use a pump in this way, very few will drain from the sump.

You’ll notice on just about every modern car the oil filter is accessible from the top, basically so don’t have to even bother lifting the car.

Tried using on of these on my Caterham today, but wasn’t very succesful, only managed to suck out 1 litre leaving 4 litres behind.

Back to normal draining approach for me.