So I have a set of Raceface Sixc cranks, popped a 30t Raceface narrow wide chain ring on there and went for a ride… noticed it started to creak, checked it and the 2 of the crankset bolt holes have cracked.

Have I missed something… are they not compatiable??

I am gutted as I simply can’t afford to replace them and I do want to go with the single up front so if i get it replaced will it happen again?

The other problem I have is that I have a Raceface Evolve crankset ready to go on my sons new build, is it likely to happen again if I set his up with a single?

Any info or similar experiences would help me figure out what to do next.

Thanks from one very depressed mtber.

I could imagine that the extra depth of the threaded holes on the ring would maybe let you overtighten the bolts?

The SIXC cranks have a bit of a reputation for cracking around the bolt holes…

It’s unlikely the n/w ring caused it, more likely the crank just failed.

Hmm, one of the bolt holes on my XT cranks cracked/split 2 days ago. I was using a 30T ring too.

Can’t see any way a narrow/wide is different from any other chainring, as far as fitting goes… But fitting/refitting rings of any sort probably does stress the cranks more than everyday use.

Raceface parts on Raceface parts, I’d be speaking (politely) to them about it, as if there’s an incompatibility they’ve kept very quiet about it. But I think you have a crank fail rather than a compatability issue or chainring fail.

I am wondering if the threaded bolt holes are a problem… might have to go to a 32t and embrace the complaints from my knees… bit gutted as I have 2 flipping 30t.

And I now have no sixc cranks…

I will give Silverfish a shout and see what happens.

Nah, it’s likely to be a problem with the crank or just cack handedness. Logically how could a chainring break a crank; if that was the case you’d have done it with other chainrings you had.

is it possible the new chain ring is slightly thinner and the bolts bottomed out in the threads?

The 30t is slightly different, there is no female part of the bolt needed, the male chainring bolt threads directly into the chainring, which is open backed, so it can’t bottom out.

It’s the only way to make it work with a normal 104BCD crankset

Email/call Silverfish and speak politely to their warranty guys? As always in the instance of needing help, be nice not angry, none of that “I know my rights” bullshit. Ask for help, they are top guys.

Is the chainset 1x specific? If not, it may well be that tightening a chainring bolt directly onto the spider (rather than onto another chainring as normal) has caused the crack and that you needed to use a washer to spread the load.

FWIW, no washers on my 1x set up on XTR cranks.

And possibly the reason people are having issues with 30T is because the threads are fixed to the chainring meaning you can, in some circumstances, tighten the bolt more. Normal chainring bolts can spin when done tight (though certainly not always).

And furthermore(!), along the washer point I made above, the contact area with a 30T is quite small compared to a normal chainring – again possibly causing a crack, particularly on a chainset that’s prone to cracking.

I think you have to use a special spacer on the race face cranks that fits the tab left by the outer ring, if you don’t have them thats probably why they have cracked you can see them hereIf you arent using them the small conntact point of the 30t ring probably hasn’t helped.

Hey Guys
MallorcaDave has hit the nail on the head there.
Running single ring you’ll need to have the RF chainring tabs in place to spread the load.
Give me a yell if you like though and we’ll see if there’s anything we can do to help.
Richie@silverfish-uk.com