If you are going to buy a bike based on a list of top tube lengths I think there’s something you’re missing

Why do you say that?

TT length is important.

I for one take into account when choosing a bike.

I have 3 SC bikes, a Blur XC, LT & a Nomad. My 2 favourites are the XC & the Nomad precisely because they have longer TT’s than the Blur (which feels cramped in comparison). In fact I chose the Nomad over other bikes because its got a longer TT which I knew (from experience) would give me a more comfortable ride.

Nice edit. The crooks was should I buy a bike here before I go or wait until I get there. As I can’t ride some of the bikes as easily over here as I can there. The answer is wait until I get there. Exercise patience in essence.

mrlebowski – Member

I have 3 SC bikes, a Blur XC, LT & a Nomad. My 2 favourites are the XC & the Nomad precisely because they have longer TT’s than the Blur (which feels cramped in comparison). In fact I chose the Nomad over other bikes because its got a longer TT which I knew (from experience) would give me a more comfortable ride.

Blur XC Carbon – 24″ TT
Blur LT – 23.5″ TT
Nomad – 23.8″ TT

Exactly George..

edit: were you agreeing with me or…?

Look, we’re getting off topic here as the OP has highlighted but I think the point is that top tube maybe important but its far from the dominant factor. The top tube on my SC LTc is shorter than I would like (ideally) but didn’t stop my buying it

Nice edit

Not tactical, though. 🙂 I read it back and thought it looked a bit sharp.

TT length is important

It’s not the full picture, though; is what I was trying to get at

Patience is the hard bit, but you can’t ride the Crabon Covert until 2013, similarly the next Enduro. I’d try and get the Mojo HD and the Nomad in the bag, though.

Nomad is not a problem. I know someone who owns the new ones. 🙂

Sort of disagreeing with you, more thinking out loud – the Blur (maybe it’s different geom to what you have) is actually longer.

Think there’s more to these effective TT measurements than meets the eye – suspect seat angle is a factor in how they’re measured, follows a rough pattern as below.

Nomad C 603.5 – 71.5 SA
Ibis 605 – 71 SA
Covert 610 – 73.4 SA
Carbon Spicy (Frame only available for 2013) 615 – 73.5
Enduro 617 – 75 SA (effective?)

Sort of disagreeing with you, more thinking out loud – the Blur (maybe it’s different geom to what you have) is actually longer.

Not according to the SC website its not…the Nomad is 44 & the LT is 42.7 (wheelbase)

Where & how are you measuring it?

Which bikes are we talking about? 😕

It’s not the full picture, though; is what I was trying to get at

True, riding style dictates where & on what you place importance.

Evryone trumpeted the original On One 456 as being waaay long.

I got an 18″ and found it horribly cramped; it was like sitting on the bog with your hands on your knees. Why? The figures don’t suggest that would be a problem.

I think imaginary TT is just that; it doesn’t exist except on the engineering drawings.

I’d still try the Covert first!

Not sue what youre on about with needing loads of compression damping onthe mojo,theyre reknowned for not needing muchat all.

Geetee is right that they a bugger to get properley set up suspension wise though, but when you do find the sweet spot theyre pretty good.

Mojo hd is an excellent one bike to do it all solution, i have no problems with mine and cant recommend itenough. But if i was being chairlifted up and didnt have to ride, ic probably be choosing something significantly more downhill biased

I am going to be spending a lot of time there and I will not only be riding downhill trails. I want a bike that will allow me to ride up as well. I won’t be able to take two bikes. I don’t want a downhill bike as I would not be able to ride that up anything. 160mm trail bike is pretty much the bike closest to dh without being a dh bike that is also ride able in other situations.

[edit] I also asked if it was true that you needed to put loads of compression on the shock; it wasn’t a statement. [/edit]

TT length is irrelevant on a 160mm travel bike that’ll you’ll be stood up on most of the time.

TT length is irrelevant on a 160mm travel bike that’ll you’ll be stood up on most of the time

Okay thanks for that.

edit] I also asked if it was true that you needed to put loads of compression on the shock; it wasn’t a statement. [/edit]

Im just backing up what othes have implied, the mojo is the opposite of what you suggest, it is reknowned for not needing much damping at all, that why they come with a fox shock that has a low rebound tune and a low compresion tune from the factory.

Not sure where you heard that they need loads of damping, ive not seen it written anywhere,

You asked for peoples input but you seem to be getting stroppy when they give it and it doesnt fit with your own views.

Ps mojo has fittings to take a bottle cage

If you dont want input then dontask for it.

I wasn’t blown over by the Mojo HD, but I think maybe going up a size would have helped that.

I guess it’s just a matter of approach… My 160mm bike is unashamedly a big bike, it climbs OK but it’s very descent biased. Wheresa the Mojo felt more balanced. And tbh I just reckon that’s a weird thing for a 160mm bike to be- it climbed like a good 5 inch trailbike, and it descended like a good 5 inch trailbike. Very nice bike, lovely to look at, lovely to ride but not for me. Instantly ridable though, no need to figure out what it’s doing- just jump on and go.

I’m not getting narked with most of the comments. I was getting stroppy when people tell me that for example tt doesn’t matter when you will be stood up all day. Or what do you want water bottle bosses for. Or you want a dh bike to go there. etc. As opposed to giving some form of balanced comments on the bikes.

I am interested in the experiences people have with the bikes and what they are using them for.

The mtbr owners reviews for the mojo pretty much all say you have to wind the rebound (i think) damping all the way on which then causes the shock to cavitate in full compression; which is why I asked. I am aware the Mojo has water bottle bosses, as does the s works. I was kind of also interested in the idea that 650b wheels could fit in the frame but soem one made a good point that all the geo could get shafted by putting 650b wheels on.

Also the head angle on the Nomad seems pretty steep comparatively.

It is just a shame that the enduro s works are not available in the UK otherwise more people could have spoken about there experiences with said frame.

What’s wrong with what you have now?

I can afford a new one. Plus mine is cracked. To be fair I was thinking of a 160mm travel recumbent with fat tyres

davidtaylforth – Member

TT length is irrelevant on a 160mm travel bike that’ll you’ll be stood up on most of the time.

You’ve definitely demonstrated that something is irrelevant. Not top tube length, though.

160mm travel recumbent

Give over. They’re only for people with a broader interest in bikes. Not for people with a narrow interest in bikes. People like you. You have a very narrow interest in bikes.

Back on topic, speaking as someone who has a very broad interest in bikes and therefore the opposite to you (you have a very narrow interest in bikes), of the three I’d go Nomad. Specialized – while extremely competent and very pretty – bore the face clean off the front of my head.

A nice position to be in! I’m sure you can’t go too far wrong with any of them.

I’d personally love to have a go on the new carbon Covert (I ride a Bandit and could not be happier with the bike or Transition’s customer service), but not sure when they’re going to be released. What about an Intense Carbine? Or, if you’re willing to go 29er, maybe a Tallboy LTC? Might give you a bit more room in the TT, if you’re concerned about that.

And if you aren’t set on carbon, have you thought about a Liteville 301? Can be set at 160mm and weighs 5.6lbs. Not cheap for alu, at £1,900, but cheaper than the Nomad and Mojo HD.

Alex – it’s not carbon and so I suspect you’re buying because you want the lightness of a carbon chassis, which is fair enough and I wouldn’t argue against that.

But if you can stomach another 1lb in mass to ride around, then the Helius AM is a brilliant bike and combines the rideability and flexibility of the Mojo with the outright performance of the Nomad, the stiffness of both and adds in engineering brilliance and complete neutrality and transparency of its own. It also has complete longevity on its side.

It’s just a bit heavier than the other three.

This though, is a bargain (if still available and it was when I posted a week or so ago).

It’s what I’m riding so the recommendation is totally biased and informed at the same time 😀

Nicolai Helius AM BNIB £1200

Oh and of course TT length matters even when you’re stood up. It’s about how long the front centre/reach of the bike is which makes a big difference to handling.

Also the head angle on the Nomad seems pretty steep comparatively.

Comparatively to what? It’s the same on paper as the Mojo.

Mine is 66.5 with a 170 Lyrik. Wouldn’t want it any slacker than around that number for general use.

Also the head angle on the Nomad seems pretty steep comparatively.

It doesn’t feel steep and it wasn’t that long ago that 66 degree HA were DH bike territory.

They’re only for people with a broader interest in bikes.

Since we last spoke I have discovered I have a passion for breathing heavily whilst having exhaust fumes pumped directly into my lungs, for this reason I think I would love a recumbent. I also sometime would like to breath fresh sea air as well so the 160mm recumbent fat bike seems the perfect do two things in an unbearable fashion bike.

Geetee do you work for Nicolai?

Whilst I am sure they are very good bikes I am not that keen on them and i am also not sure if they would be quite as competitive on price once I get to North America.

Though you are right maybe saving 1lb in frame weight isn’t the be all and end all of bikes and maybe there will be an aluminimu framed bike for half the price that can do all I want.

But I want a carbone badly

Geetee do you work for Nicolai?

No, but I am quite close to the brand and have acted to promote it in an unofficial way.

Whilst I am sure they are very good bikes I am not that keen on them and i am also not sure if they would be quite as competitive on price once I get to North America.

Yes I would agree as well. Sorry I see now you’re looking to take advantage of buying something in the US to get it cheap(er).

I wouldn’t try to dissuade you from going carbon at all and I wouldn’t suggest any other bike apart from the Helius AM as a substitute because no other bike I’ve tried gets as close to the stiffness of the Mojo or the Nomad (the Nomad in particular is ludicrously stiff).

1lb is quite a bit and again I wouldn’t ever suggest you shouldn’t want to make that kind of saving.

Have fun with your decision. I’d take the Nomad every day of the week over the Mojo (haven’t tried the Enduro).

However check this run of Lopes in Whistler if you think it might not be up to the job:

Cool video, though I reckon Lopes could be riding a shopping trolley down there and he’d still be flying.

For what it’s worth, out of the three, I’d go Ibis.