…for XC wheel – alloy or brass?

And what’s the best way to calculate nipple length?

Serious replies only please.

Dunno, but….

Who uses oil before tweaking them ?

And what’s the best way to calculate nipple length?

I find it’s usually temperature dependent.

Brass every time.

I’ve broken too many alloy ones trying to true used used wheels to consider them.

most people use 12mm although CRC seem to supply only 14mm when you buy spokes.

Doesn;t really matter as long as you use the right length when calculating spoke length.

There’s always… 2.

I’ve used a calculator which didn’t ask for nipple length to get the correct spoke length (Pro Wheel Builder) – what do you use?

Brass, if I were a racing snake trying to save every last gramm I might consider alloy, but it would be way down on my list of weight saving options.

12mm is standard

Awesome cheers guys.

Brass as they will [ if lubed before insertion] always free up [ ok much more often than alloy
Its saves very little weight and just adds problems in the long run

Brass for me… Not sure if alu are more seizy but they’re certainly more cracky. Just part-rebuilt a roval wheel, because when trying to true it, it turned out several nipples were already cracked and by the time I’d finished, more than half had cracked just trying to adjust the tension. Stripped it and replaced every last one of the little cracky bastards.

Alloy save 20g per wheel (assuming 32 spokes).

In my experience they are good for the first year or two but after that any nipple tweaking required is highly likely to cause nipple breakage. For weight weenie or XC race wheels they are a must but if you want years of service go brass.

I did wonder if there’s any mileage in just going through each wheel once every six months and giving the nipples a half turn out and back to free them up… But that seems like the sort of thing that logically shouldn’t cause any problems, but would probably end up with an improbably bendy wheel.

Serious replies only please.

BOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

There’s always… 2.

occasionally theres more. In norfolk for instance.

For my own stuff I Normaly use Dt alloy pro-lock as I’m a weight freak
But for customers wheels we always recomend brass
Much better in the long term

Brass. I prefer Sapim polyax as they swivel slightly, reducing the bend on the spoke.
12mm is standard, unless you’ve got deep section rims.

OP –

You title a thread with just ‘Nipples’ and then request serious replies only.

Schizo!

And another question about spokes – my calculator says I need 263 & 265mm spokes, I could get away with 262 & 264mm eh?

I’d just go 264 all round.

ALU nips if you lube regular, brass if you want fit and forget.

I lube when building, not just nips, spoke crossings and flange holes too, really facilitates a good bed.

Over the years, the most important phase I’ve found in wheel building is the bedding in procedure, don’t be scared, really rag on those spokes.

I was thinking that, but I can get both lengths quite easily so erred on the side of caution with the two lengths – I didn’t think a mm would make too much difference.

occasionally theres more. In norfolk for instance.

Or if you have a golden gun…