Hi

So recently purchased a smart trainer and really enjoying the structured training plans available online. This has made me want to buy a new road bike and get into road riding a lot more, long days out and possibly even race at some point! Now coming from mtb I know nothing about road bikes really. I am looking at the canyon endurance cf sl 8.0 disc (or the pro) but for the extra £650 you can get Di2 version, now is it worth it? Or are there any better options out there for around £2.5k/£3k?

Thanks

Di2 is definitely worth it!

Personnally I wouldn’t bother for a first road bike. Definitely get someone to fit you to a bike, and get the best frame you can afford and the best wheelset. 105 mechanical hydraulic is really very good, anything above that is just vanity.

Love my Di2. I think it’s worth it.

For the first time this year I went out on my “best” road bike yesterday, which has Dura Ace mechanical gears and brakes, whereas my “winter” bike has Di2 Ultegra with discs. I thought I’d miss the brakes, but more than anything I missed Di2. The need to seemingly constantly trim my front mech on my local hilly loop had me spending the whole ride trying to work out what I could sell to fund a Di2 upgrade!

Is it worth it is relative. I also have Di2 on my road bike and though I think it works great (especially the move from small ring to big on the front shifter is effortless) and there are some nice features (like the gear chaining buttons on the top of the hoods when you are climbing out of the saddle) and you can do multiple gera changes just by holding in the lever and you don’t have to adjust abnything once it is all set up. However it works fairly similarly to a well set up cable system. So if you are expecting a massive difference in performance like going from canti brakes to discs you will be a bit disappionted IMO.

I’d get di2 if I could afford it and it didn’t compromise any other components on the bike. I wouldn’t take di2 over better wheels for example. it certainly wont make you go any faster.

Necessary? Clearly not, but Di2 is lovely. Well worth it if you can afford it.

I wouldn’t take di2 over better wheels for example

Dunno about that, wheels are a lot easier to upgrade in the future compared to Di2. Depends how much better the wheels are, I suppose.

Thanks for the replies, looks like a lot of people are a fan of Di2, next question then canyon endurance cf sl 8.0 Di2 or the Ribble Endurance SL disc Di2? Or a bike I am missing?

Definitely go di2 from the start if you think you’ll want it in future. I’m just changing 105 mechanical for Ultegra di2 and it’s a right faff.

You have to pull together a large number of specific components and then measure up for all the right length wires to connect them.

I’ve got a Caad12 with internal routing and I’ve just finished messing about with cables (I hope) which was very frustrating. Now still got to put adjust top and bottom screws on rear mech / put in place the pad for the screw on true front mech / bang the cabin on and set that up. Also got to connect the existing hydraulic lines to the new levers and sort out bar tape. Such a pain in the arse.

Changing out wheels later is so easy in comparison.

Dunno about that, wheels are a lot easier to upgrade in the future compared to Di2.

Well yeah, if the intention is to upgrade over time then for sure get di2.

But if the intention is to buy a bike and keep it as stock I’d have the mechanical bike with better wheels over the di2 version with cheap wheels every day of the week.

Had lots of road bikes in my time. Upgrading the wheels has transformed the ride of many of them. Upgrading the gears, not so much.

Or upgrade to axs at a later date. Much easier than di2 to fit and very nice to use.

Di2 is lovely, it’s pure luxury. I doubt it makes you faster but it just feels wonderful to use and works so well.
I would take it over wheels as mentioned above, it’s easier to upgrade them later.
As for the cost, that’s your decision to make

Look at rose bikes as well.

cycledivision had some sale bikes from big names.

Di2 is nice, my cx bike is ultegra hydro and my road bike di2. Di2 is just nicer. It won’t revolutionise your riding but it is a worth while spec increase in some cases. It’s expensive to upgrade later. I tend to get a good spec across the board. It used to be on mtbs that you’d break something and upgrade and that worked. Road stuff lasts and doesn’t break. Never been one for upgrading for the sake of it. I tend to put the money towards my next bike in savings. So I wouldn’t get Di2 and a budget wheel set. I’d get ultegra and a mid range wheelset.

Why would you buy the Canyon endurance over the Ultimate?

Di2 every time. I’m a recent convert to electronic shifting. I’m now trying to figure out how to convert my other bikes to do away with mechanical gear changes it is so much nicer.

I’m not sure what the difference is?

Yes, Di2 definitely worth it. Di2 just makes road riding much more enjoyable imo. If you enjoy it more, you’ll want to ride more which is a good thing – simples.
It’s a lot less effort to shift and the gears just work all the time.

I can’t comment on either of those bikes, I think “endurance geometry”, “endurance bikes” is just a bit of codswollop though, just a selling point. Maybe that’s just me but I do ultra road and long distance stuff on standard race geometry.

Yes, Di2 definitely worth it. Di2 just makes road riding much more enjoyable imo. If you enjoy it more, you’ll want to ride more which is a good thing – simples.
It’s a lot less effort to shift and the gears just work all the time.

The 105 mechanical on my last road bike was flawless for two years (including winter riding) didn’t even need to be adjusted, so not sure this can be an argument for Di2. I would rather spend the Di2 money on wheels.

canyon endurance cf sl 8.0 Di2

I’ve got one of these, lovely bike, but kind of wish I’d got the Ultimate instead. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with it, and I love riding it, but it’s just a little bit too sedate.

Bit cheaper than you wanted but have a look on here:

https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13110586/bike-with-di2-under-2k#latest

but for the extra £650 you can get Di2 version, now is it worth it?

Only you can decide… To some people it will be an obvious yes, to some no, for most there will be a number of pros and cons to weigh up.

I have R8050 Ultegra Di2 on one of my bikes. It’s great! But then so is the current R8000 mechanical Ultegra (6800 mechanical I wasn’t such a fan of, I found it a bit vague).. In fact, so are all the SRAM and Campag groupsets, mechanical or electric, if they’re setup properly. I’ll happily ride anything, but then I’m au fait with all their intricacies and know how to get them all to work properly…

The biggest benefit of Di2 that I see is for the kind of person who would normally take their bike to a shop for every little gear tweak or to change cables etc. Di2, unless you knock it, should never go out of line once it’s set. Just charge the battery when it needs it, and replace chains/cassettes/chainrings/jockey wheels as you normally would anyway. It’s more expense up front, but as long as you don’t smack it, it’s less maintenance for your average rider for sure.

You also get some nice features in Di2 now, which are user programmable, which many people never bother with but I like them for sure. I’ve got my R8050 groupset setup with the M800 XT display junction box which means I have a gear display, visual battery level indicator, and a visual display for when I’m trimming the mechs too. It also means it’s Bluetooth ready, and I can update the firmware or program my Di2 to my hearts content with the app on my iPhone. To that end, I’ve got synchroshift setup so I can use the right hand shifter to go all the way from 36/30 to 52/11 using just the right hand shifter in 13 equally spaced steps. I also changed the upshift point where the front mech shifts in that sequence to suit too. And I’ve set the hidden hood top buttons up to shift too (right up, left down, just like on SRAM AXS)… It’s a gadget lovers dream!

But I really love the Campag Athena on my other bike too, and I’m a big SRAM fan too…

For me Di2 is a “nice to have” if there’s enough room in the budget (and contrary to popular belief, it’s not that hard to retrofit, sure it’s more involved than SRAM AXS is, but changing from Ultegra mechanical to Ultegra Di2 is a couple of hours work for a good mechanic). I wouldn’t sacrifice the frame I wanted for a cheaper one just to get Di2, but if you’re spending £2.5-3k anyway, what’s another £650 I guess…?

Now coming from mtb I know nothing about road bikes really. I am looking at the canyon endurance cf sl 8.0 disc (or the pro). Or are there any better options out there for around £2.5k/£3k?

As for what bike… Well you state you know nothing about road bikes. I cannot stress just how important the fit of a road bike is over and above anything else! A £1k ally bike with Tiagra 10spd that fits you well and you’re comfy on it for hours on end is money far better spent than a £3k bike with Di2 and some deep section wheels if it doesn’t fit you well! Buying something like a Canyon blind is a far bigger risk geometry wise on a road bike, where a few mm here or there makes a much bigger difference than it does on an MTB. I’ve owned quite a few nice road bikes now, and did not get on with a couple of them just because the geometry was subtly different to my ideal. I know from lots of experience what geometry fits me well and what doesn’t now, but that has come from many years of riding and selling bikes and studying geometry charts etc… That’s why in your case, I’d book an appointment with a good roadie shop, and go and get sized up on a few bikes. They’ll know straight away what will suit you and what won’t.

I’d get di2 if I could afford it and it didn’t compromise any other components on the bike. I wouldn’t take di2 over better wheels for example. it certainly wont make you go any faster.

Sums up my thoughts. Di2 for all it’s positives is still and expensive luxury even by cycling standards.

If you’re spending more than a grand on a road bike you’re no longer making any real gains. Over £1.5k-£2.5k (105 and decent wheels) and you’re really into the realms of the only differences being in feel.

As for what bike… Well you state you know nothing about road bikes. I cannot stress just how important the fit of a road bike is over and above anything else! A £1k ally bike with Tiagra 10spd that fits you well and you’re comfy on it for hours on end is money far better spent than a £3k bike with Di2 and some deep section wheels if it doesn’t fit you well!

I know this is the advice trotted out by every bike shop looking to sell you a bike, but………..

1) The sizes go up in 20mm increments, Giant are (or at least were) even further between sizes. It’s never an exact science.

2) Most people sit in the middle of the bell curve for height/torso/arm/leg lengths etc. That’s why it’s a bell curve. It’s fairly unlikely you’ll fall into such an extreme that simply buying a bike based on your height is a bad idea.

But (again)………..

1) Check the geometry and sizing charts carefully, a Trek 56cm and a Cannondale 56cm might not be the same fit. Then there’s sloping top tubes, taller head tubes, relaxed seat angles, and all that jazz trying to confuse the issue. But if a size guide says a 56cm frame is good for 5ft10-6ft2 and you’re 6ft0 then it would take some really freeky proportions to go wrong.

2) Do spend time (and money) getting your chosen bike to fit you. Moving the saddle up/down/fore/aft 10mm on a MTB makes naff all difference because you’re only sat in it half the time at most, and when you are sat in it you’re moving around a lot. That’s why almost everyone can agree that a charge spoon is comfortable. Roadies on the other hand, there are probably almost as many saddle shapes as there are riders. Take Selle Italia (because they fit me and i’ve tried most of them).

3x widths
2x shapes (flite has a slight hamock shape, SLR is flat)
3x cut outs (none, flow cut out, and max cut out)
3x different padding types (none/thin, normal, gell)

So (assuming they all exist) is 54 saddles just from their top tier, then there’s titanium, carbon, steel rails, various bases etc.

Try moving the stem up and down a 5mm spacer at a time, try a 10mm longer or shorter stem. It’s a never ending process. What usually happens is I think I’m comfortable, then I’ll increase my mileage or gain/lose some fitness or pick up an injury and find I need to adjust something by just a few mm to take the pressure off it. Even just moving the saddle 3mm makes a big difference if you’ve got a niggling knee injury and heading out for a 5 hour ride. But you’re unlikely to find you’re 20mm wrong just based on height.

I bought a 130mm stem just to be sure in case i wanted to go up a size, it feels really long (6ft, right in the middle of cannondales 56cm recomendation, but some brands would put me on the borderline of 56/58).

The 105 mechanical on my last road bike was flawless for two years (including winter riding) didn’t even need to be adjusted, so not sure this can be an argument for Di2. I would rather spend the Di2 money on wheels.

Well as you can see from other replies above, Di2 is pretty much fit and forget. All you need to do is charge it when needed. I’ve been on my Ultegra Di2 since the start of 2015, and I do 10 , 12, even 18 hour training rides. All that’s needed changing is the rear mech, one wire, and cassettes and chains from wear. Faultless.
Much nicer to ride than 105 mechanical too, you have no argument regards that.

I know this is the advice trotted out by every bike shop looking to sell you a bike, but………..

Yes, but…

I’ve seen many people buy bikes that were significantly too small or too large for them, based upon a manufacturers recommendations on their website, including (but certainly not limited to) Canyon… Then there’s the fact that a lot of people are wildly unaware of their own measurements. During my time owning my own shop, I’ve had people looking up to me (I’m 5ft10) telling me they’re 6ft tall, and people several inches taller than me try to tell me that they’re actually 5ft10 themselves, and I must only be about 5ft6…

And that’s before we get into the fact that a 56cm in one make doesn’t necessarily equate to the same measurements as a 56cm in another. Or the fact that some people suit a more upright/endurance position, and some get on better with a much racier one. And then you get to this…

But if a size guide says a 56cm frame is good for 5ft10-6ft2 and you’re 6ft0 then it would take some really freeky proportions to go wrong.

At 5ft10, I am almost always on the cusp of sizing in most brands. Road or MTB, I’m usually between a medium or large (54 or 56 usually on road)… It therefore isn’t surprising that brands that usually size their road bikes in odd denominations (ie. 53/55/57) rather than even, I am usually smack in the middle of their recommendation for a 55cm frame and find the fit will be pretty spot on.

FWIW my Canyon is spot on size wise, just followed their size chart, then obviously adjusted the seat height and the fore-aft position a bit. Obviously if you can try one first that would be better, but it’s not that risky.

It’s a lot less effort to shift and the gears just work all the time.

I have the mechanical skills of a baboon, yet even for me keeping a mech indexed (once it’s been set up correctly in first place) is the easiest mechanical job in cycling.

As for being alot less effort to change gears, what groupset mechanical group set have you been using? I have mechanical 105, tiagra and ultegra, plus di2 ultegra and etap on my road bikes, and the mechanical ones are no harder to change gear in the slightest. Unless you have the world’s weekest hands, mechanical shifting is zero effort whatsoever.

Di2 is better, but it is barely noticeable.

As for being alot less effort to change gears, what groupset mechanical group set have you been using? I have mechanical 105, tiagra and ultegra, plus di2 ultegra and etap on my road bikes, and the mechanical ones are no harder to change gear in the slightest. Unless you have the world’s weekest hands, mechanical shifting is zero effort whatsoever.

If you start to do ultra distance racing you’ll know what I mean. But if you haven’t raced ultra or you don’t do spins in the hills over 18 hours long, then there’s not much point in me going into details 😉😎

If you start to do ultra distance racing you’ll know what I mean.

I’ve spoken to a couple of hardened TCR racers in the past about their use of Di2, as it surprised me. Their response was much like yours… Spend long enough in the saddle, and you’ll find out, basically! 😂

All I can add to this is I got Ribble Endurance SL Di2 last week, red frame colour (fastest one)

Proper good bike, my first with Di2 and I’m glad I went for it.

Their response was much like yours… Spend long enough in the saddle, and you’ll find out, basically! 😂

Yes haha and that includes 24 hour mtb racing when it’s a very rough or extreme course (for racing that duration). Sometimes at about the 16 or 18 hour point, shifting can become a huge effort on the hands / wrists / fingers. And that’s with a top notch 1x setup. Slightly off topic mind, oops…

FWIW my Canyon is spot on size wise, just followed their size chart, 

Again different folks different strokes. Canyon have me on a medium as well (gangly 6ft). But whilst rideable doesn’t suit me perfectly . I had to go large and fit a 120mm stem. In all honesty finding what works has been an evolution over a considerable period of time.

I’m a little unusual it seems I went from Di2 back to mechanical.

The Di2 was a pain with winter gloves on.
The 9100 mechanical I replaced it with has been faultless and is lighter.

On the other hand my best bike is 11 speed sram etap red and that’s very good.

The di2 buttons are right next to each other so it will be interesting to see if that’s a pain with gloves. That said I’ve initially set it with synchro shift and once I’ve got it all up and running I want to see if via e-tube I can set it so both paddles on the left shifter shift the same way and both paddles on the right shifter shift the other way. If I can do that it doesn’t matter which paddle I hit.

R785 shifters is they don’t have the extra top buttons but cost me £85 for the pair brand new as I got a good deal on CRC and managed to sell the brake calipers and hoses as I already have some on my bike (replacing rs505 shifters and 105 mechs).

Got a new road bike myself just recently.

Was looking at used and new options, almost got a di2 equipped bargain but in the end I went for mechanical disc Ultegra on an even-more bargain bike – and spent another £500 on some decent carbon wheels.

If I had a bigger budget I’d have got di2 as well, but it falls beneath a decent frame and wheels in my priorities.

My last & current summer bike was/is Ultegra Di2, my last & current winter bike was/is Ultegra mechanical, & with a full length outer the mechanical is smoother shifting.

and spent another £500 on some decent carbon wheels.

Any links?

If I was just dipping my toe into road bikes for the first time I would buy a second hand aluminium with Tiagra (latest one) or 105 (any age, even back when it was 10 speed) for ~£300-400 and get out riding. Only upgrade I would consider is a set of DT Swiss wheel (generally straight, serviceable and strong). One consideration though poor quality kit is poor – Giant low end wheels for example are like cheese, other makes typically fitted with boat anchors. I’d go with heavy boat anchors over the cheese every time.

A Cannondale CAAD8 or Optimo would be a good bet if you think a racey setup works or an older Giant Defy for something ‘endurance’ shaped. Both have threaded BBs and simple cable routing, nothing unusual or proprietary.

For some people finding a position and setup that is comfy can take huge amounts of tweaking. A bike fit is only as good as the person who does it and how you are at the time. Buy a used bike that doesn’t quite work after 6 months use and you can probably sell it for about the same as what you paid (season depending).

From experience the majority of people end up changing their first road bike within a couple of years, mainly due to wanted to get something ‘faster’ or ‘racier’. Bear in mind that is mostly marketing shit – legs make you faster and position slows you down. Go too extreme you might not be able to pedal effectively or use the drops, go too conservatively and you will be a wind breaker and everyone’s mate on a group ride (or just having to work very hard).

I’d add to Boombang’s very wise advise, go for something that can take proper mudguards as when you do get the upgrade bug you can relegate this one to winter duties and keep your sparkly new di2 bike for good weather.

and spent another £500 on some decent carbon wheels.

Any links?

The Prime Blackedition ones off CRC, but I think they are all gone now.