- New Bike Day: Cotic FlareMax
@roverpig – regarding SA. I just checked the geometry of my Spearfish and it has a SA of 73deg. The Spearfish is designed as a long distance racer and is definitely an “all day” bike (and the next and the next …). My Mk1 Solaris has a SA of 72.5deg and is also fine for all day riding, the current generation is 74deg!Posted 6 months agosamuelrMember
Exactly! The front centre of the new bikes are longer than old so need to be steeper to compensate. Otherwise you would be streched out like superman.Posted 6 months ago
Road bikes are totally different and thats why manufacturers are moving mtb away from road geometry. Old mtb were basically modified road bikes but the technology has moved forward i.e. suspension and the like. My supersix has a sa of 74.1 My remedy has a sa of 74.6 so no real difference.samuelrMember
Oh and by the way. Im not an expert on any of this and nobody can say anyone else is wrong as its so personal. What feels good to me might be utter shait for you. I know what numbers I like on a bike so piking one is easy but I went through a few to get to this point.Posted 6 months ago
Thanks all, some very good points. I must say the FlareMax is the most comfortable and balanced bike I’ve ever owned. But that could be because I’m an odd shape and doesn’t mean it wouldn’t be even better with a stepper SA. For what it’s worth I’m 6’ but (only) have a 33” inside leg and I do have the saddle pushed forwards a bit as well.Posted 6 months agofathomerSubscriber
mrmoofo – Member
Weighed mine today … it’s not the lightest build, it is an Xl, and it is running a Hope 35w 27.5 rear wheel with a 2.6 tyre on … and Pikes
32 lbs … I was expecting a couple more …
I weighed mine the other day on my cheap luggage scales and it’s about 33.5lbs (scales wouldn’t settle). That’s with a sturdy but nothing ridicoulous build. Pikes, DT Swiss 240’s/XM481/Sapim D-Lite’s, Maxxis DHF/DHR’s and Hope E4’s. Plus as I can’t get the OneUp dropper working it’s getting a heavier dropper (Brand X).
Can’t say I’m looking forward to carrying it up Lakes land passes in the summer 🙂Posted 6 months ago
Demo’d A FlareMAX and a RocketMAX today. First time on a FS in about 4 years.
RocketMAX definitely too much bike (also marred by comical fast rebound rear shock setting, only really discovered on the orange descent at Laggan… ☺️). Felt a better position though.
Both Bikes had the CC rear shock, how do people find the XFusion one? Worth the £250 uplift? Quite liked the 140mm Trace HLR fork.
In comparison to the RocketMAX the FlareMAX felt short. It definitely said large on the seat tube though.
Would hope orange bits make it go any faster though? Scarey to see how much my preferred build adds up to… ☺️Posted 4 months ago
I think the CC is a pretty common upgrade but I’m quite happy with the Xfusion. There isn’t much in the way of rebound damping though. Even I need to have it on the max damping, which could be an issue if you wanted more.
I’m nowhere near rad enough to push any shock, which may be why I like the Xfusion. I like the fact it has a very firm compression setting for the road and a fairly firm one for off road climbs, plus a light platform and open for JRA and descending. I think the CC is more active even with the climb switch on, which is what put me off it. But then I rate climbing performance at least as highly as descending and I suspect the latter is where the CC shines. Well that’s my take on it anyway. I suspect the Xfusion may be a better option if you really care about climbing, but for most normal people the CC is probably going to be the preferred option.Posted 4 months ago
Not sure about the “too much bike” thing these days myself.
Did you see the bit where I said first FS ride in 4 years? Jumping to a RocketMAX is a BIG jump 🤣 coming from a hard tail on the FlareMAX I felt more ‘connected’.
Rebound dialled hard to the max rp , hmm, I like a slow rebound, that might be a significant problem (I’ve changed a Fox air can out before because i couldn’t get rebound to work). I’m not a suspension fettler but I like to be able to find a setting that works for me (and then leave it at that…). I’ve always run fully open shocks (I had a bike that ‘sat up’ and felt shit climbing on the fox lockout, another reason it got binned) front and back I haven’t experienced significant bob (probably riding too sloooww)…
The FlareMAX felt to me like the saddle was too far back (it wasn’t) rather than it being too short so maybe a 45-50mm stem would sort that out. Got a feeling I thought the bars on the RocketMAX were rolled more forwards too…
Hey, at least I’ve managed to get a build cost sub £4k this am 🤪Posted 4 months ago
Sounds as though you are going to have to spring for that CC shock I’m afraid 🙂 I’m no suspension expert but I wonder whether the droplink design “hides” a bit of the rebound damping (changing leverage ratios or something).
Fit is very personal, but I must admit I was out on mine yesterday and funnily enough I was reflecting on the fact that it doesn’t feel long any more. In fact I don’t think it ever has really. Slack, yes, but not long. It’s always just felt as though it fits.
I found the trick to getting the build cost down was to re-use a few bits from the shed and not include them in the calculations 🙂Posted 4 months ago
@mattoab: Correct. If you were going to ask, the beard was what I was going to mention 😆
Spoke with Paul @cotic, there’s 10mm difference from the large Solaris/SodaMAX and the FlareMAX so I wasn’t imagining it, it is Short… 🤪
Also, conclusion is that I’d be happier with CC damper.
It’s not cheap this bike malarkey is it?Posted 4 months agobootsyMember
Just wanted to say big thanks to Roverpig for this thread, its been so helpful (along with everyone at Cotic) and has answered many of my questions. Roverpig’s descriptions completely ring true for me, what a stonking bike! Here’s my Flaremax:
https://i.postimg.cc/Qt3RWsQy/P1100306.jpg%5B/img%5D%5B/urlPosted 3 months ago
So I put the fork up to 140mm in preparation for my first alps trip in 6 years. I then spotted the downtime podcast chap saying he had a longer stroke shock in his. A long google later and it turns out the difference between a 190×45 and 190×50 cane creek inline is a 5mm plastic spacer around the damper rod on the air spring side. So I bought a strap wrench and took the air cover off and undid the air can and slid it out of the way. I wrapped the damper shaft in tape to protect it. I then used a soldering iron to melt two lines in the plastic spacer and snapped it off. I didn’t have the shaft clamp to take the eyelet bit off the damper rod hence the ghetto approach. So far I’ve only ridden it in the street but it seems fine, not losing air and couldn’t see any marks on the damper shaft. Will probably get it a service once back off holiday as it feels a lot better for some new oil in the air can. Not factory approved I guess but doesn’t hit anything on full travel and I can’t see the extra 12mm hurting in the alps. Massive thanks to the big thread on mtbr.Posted 1 month ago
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