Stripped down my well used and loved C456 and found that the seattube has cracked significantly. Above the top tube joint just below the seatpost collar. I’ve been running a borrowed dropper shimmed and so this has (plus tightening plus a fall?) obviously introduced some forces it didn’t cope with.

Had a quick look at repairs and they seem to come in at more than such an old relatively low-rent frame is worth. But I don’t have the budget to buy complete new bike so wondering what XC light but fun/slack frames are available to swap the majority of the current kit over from:

26″ wheels
Fox 150 fork (I think tapered but need to check)
threaded hope bb
QR rear – hope pro II so may be scope for changing to bolt through/maxle?
Hope brakes

Looking for best priced options and whilst I know that slack steel is all the rage around here I personally can’t see the point -if I’m riding my hardtail rather than the spitfire I want a lighter more playful experience. So Alu or carbon options I guess?

Cotic BFe. Loved mine, just a tad small for me. Lovely ride from the steel frame too. I had a C456 and replaced it with a BFe, the BFe was far, far better.

But don’t these steel frames build up into a 30lb + bike.

I’ll take this opportunity to sneak in a WTD for an XL 26″ frame, XC oriented. The few 26″ hardtail frames you can buy new mostly seem to come up a bit small and need longer forks.

456C is about 2lb heavier than a BFe

I’m just about to strip down my 20″ C456 frame if anyones interested in it (includes a silver CK headset for tapered fork)

Mine was built to around 28lbs with a 150mm Fox 32, 1×10 XT, Reverb and Stan’s/Superstar wheels with Hans Dampfs, so mid-ish weight build. My new 27.5 MK5 Soul, which is a large and has about 10 feet of extra Reynolds tubing in it (maybe overstating… slightly… but it is a much, much longer frame, admittedly with nicer tubing though) with a similar build (GX Eagle, reverb, Hope E4 brakes) and burlier 120mm Revelation fork is just under 27.5lbs, so they’re not heavy. Without knowing your full build kit it’s hard to say, but from the sounds of it should be easily under 30lbs. I’d much rather have a slightly heavier frame that rides nicer than a lighter one that isn’t as nice to ride, and I’m known for being a weight weenie at times!

I have an Inbred Summer Season 18″ frame, 26″qr,straight steerer, in ‘raw’ for next to nothing if anyone is interested. Bought from new in 2010, had my use out of it, surplus to my needs now. Comes with Hope headset.

456C is about 2lb heavier than a BFe

Really – For equivalent sizes, I know it’s not a light carbon frame but I am surprised by that. My mates stanton with a high end build and it’s a lot heavier than my c456.

. @trailseeker – i would be interested in this but pretty certain it’s 18″ – I’ll check.

Anyone know of good value fun/slackish alu frames still available to accept 26″ wheels?

Anyone know of good value fun/slackish alu frames still available to accept 26″ wheels?

Any of the ones that are marketed as 650B will do.

Pedlad, I sent you a PM about my frame which will be getting stripped at the weekend.

Replied – may consider used if 18″. Does evo use QR rear?

Medium Chameleon in the classifieds

If you’re after a frame that takes 150mm forks, it’s not going to be XC light, whatever it is made of.

I’m biased, but the new BFe26 was made just for people exactly like you, with exactly your kit, looking for a home to be hung on.

i bought a 2018 dartmoor hornet with those criteria. It’s a 650b frame but the 26″ wheels run fine in it. Not qr rear though. The earlier frame might be thought – https://slam69.co.uk/dartmoor-hornet-2016—26275frame-7424-p.asp

https://www.cotic.co.uk/product/BFe26#frame

Weight – 5.7 lbs for the 16″

You can buy additional 26″ dropouts for one of these.

https://www.production-privee.com/en/product/shan/

Bit lighter than a BFe

“You can buy additional 26″ dropouts for one of these.

https://www.production-privee.com/en/product/shan/

Bit lighter than a BFe”

I’m pretty damned certain it isn’t! Nice frame though. And the weight difference between decent hardtail frames for 150mm forks is less than the weight of a full waterbottle on the frame!

er we seem to have gone a bit off brief and into the realms of £500 steel stw-favourite frames. Much as I’d love that I’m after something reasonably cheap either new or second hand. Fork is tapered so that’s one concern covered off.

Any good value Alu long travel hardtails recommended ?
Tracy – I don’t know anything about chameleons – what size frame is a medium as I’m a smidge under 6ft?

er we seem to have gone a bit off brief … I’m after something reasonably cheap either new or second hand

Take “new” out of the thread title and you’ll get people making loads of suggestions … so many more second hand options available.

26” frames are more tricky these days. I’d be tempted to try and find a 650b one without too much BB drop, then run big tyres on it.

When I was looking there were some cheap Vitus hardtail frames but I’m not sure if they are still about. There’s a cheap brand X hardtail you could look at. Then the Sonder Transmitter and Orange Clockwork 137 that could be found on sale for about £300.

Other than that I’d look 2nd hand.

At 178 (5’10) I rode a large Mk3 Chameleon. I wouldn’t have wanted smaller. Especially older SC’s tend to run small for size. All the old Chameleon geo and height guides etc is on SC’s website still.

Im 5′ 9″ and Kevin is 6′ and we had no problems with the size. Only stripped it to try and standardize on parts between our other bikes, ran it with 150mm Revelations

I bought a 27’5 orange clockwork 120.
Tapered steerer
Qr rear
150 26 marzocchi bombers
Threaded bb

No idea what the frame weighs, less than the Cove stiffee it replaced.

I’ve got a -2 headset in and it’s fun and light ish, 30lb with heavy fork, dropper and a Brooks saddle.

The bb is low and I clip my pedals with 175 cranks every so often.

http://www.bikescene.co.uk/OrangeFrames-107.html

I had mine from bike scene. Looks like they are sold out. I’m sure you could convert the rear hub to boost and bolt through depending on the hub