Need help diagnosing drivetrain noise

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  • Need help diagnosing drivetrain noise
  • neilwheel
    Member

    Which gears doe this happen?

    gardron
    Member

    Sadly any – or at least any I use, which is normally the 11-25 sort of range. It’s not noticeably worse in any one gear

    neilwheel
    Member

    Have you checked the freehub.

    bikebouy
    Member

    It’s yer knees. 😉

    gardron
    Member

    It’s all ‘new’ kit with going to 650b and I swapped the freehub body as soon as I got the wheels for a steel one – I could try popping the alu one back on and seeing if it goes away, that’s not a bad shout at all. Honestly it seems fine though and there’s no freewheeling issues at all, nice and smooth.

    Jamie
    Member

    Pedals ok? No play in them? Done up nice and tight?

    gardron
    Member

    Pedals (shimano saint MX80’s) are done up nice and tight, there seems to be a bit of what I’d call tight play in them – so they do move around the axle a bit but it takes some effort to do it. Not entirely sure if this is normal but it’s the same on another set I’ve got and that bike doesn’t have the noise issue

    neilwheel
    Member

    Pedals could be the one, I’d have a look in the freehub too, see if everything is as it should be.

    Premier Icon sazter
    Subscriber

    Possibly silly but definitely no cables sticking out and catching on crank arms?

    gardron
    Member

    Hey at this point, I’ll check things no matter how silly – but no, nothing like that at all.

    Think I’ll pop another set of pedals on it tonight and see if that cures it and whack the freehub off and check that over.

    Jamie
    Member

    Maybe try putting a bit of copper grease on the threads before tightening.

    sugdenr
    Member

    From symptoms i’d say bearings. Change BB and pedals and see if it goes away, that or if you are FS it could be rear triangle bearings from the pedalling bob.

    gardron
    Member

    Very unlikely to be the bearings on the pivots as it only happens under peddling and I’d get more bob than that pointing it downhill.

    BB may get swapped it the rest of this doesn’t fix it but it’s one of those “this is unlikely to go wrong” bits as it’s a Chris King and torque on that has been checked, as has bearing play – flushed the grease out as well.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    Possibly silly but definitely no cables sticking out and catching on crank arms?

    Not silly! I spent the last few weeks chasing a creak on my roadbike. New BB, nope, didn’t fix it, then found loose chainring bolt, which wouldn’t tighten up completely and shouldered the rear nut with the stupid little slot in it trying to tighten one. Managed to eliminate it I thought and went for a long ride on Saturday. Halfway up the first hill and the creak morphed into a regular tick.creak.

    I ordered a set of Aerozine chainring bolts cos they have hex slots instead of the stupid little slots. They arrived yesterday and I went to fit them to discover the front mech cable tail was pushed over and catching on the crank arm every revolution!

    Premier Icon cloudnine
    Subscriber

    Try re-fitting your BB.. take off the cups, clean all the threads, re-grease and re-assemble. Dont over tighten. Also check your pedals and chain ring bolts.

    sugdenr
    Member

    check splines on NDS crank arm aren’t worn ever so slightly

    gardron
    Member

    Chain ring bolts are good – and I swapped the chainring last night just to rule out it being a fat/thin chainring issue so I know they’re fine. That and I lost my chainring t’other week in swinley as the bolts came undone so I’m becoming a fan of threadlock recently.

    gardron
    Member

    I’m basically out of ideas on this one so could do with some outside help / opinions.

    I’m getting a weird ticking noise intermittently when peddling. It’s specifically there when peddling, not when coasting and it doesn’t happen when it’s in the stand – only when I’m on the bike (seated or standing). I’ve gone through the usual suspects like swapping the saddle/seatpost over, tried a new chainring, checked dropout/wheel alignment (though it’s bolt-through rear end with direct mount hanger). Happens in any gear but seems to happen more when going uphill so with more torque but unfortunately not at any particular point in the cycle.
    I’ve tried changing the rear mech, checking the BB is done up and running smooth as well. Doesn’t seem to manifest itself as anything other than an annoying and slightly unsettling noise.

    Bike setup:
    Santa cruz bronson, arch ex rims on hope, XT chainset with fat/thin ring running 1×10 with a hope 40t expander. XT chain, XT mech on direct mount.

    Any advice on things to check greatly appreciated.

    gardron
    Member

    Well, not pedals – just swapped over to some DMR Vaults and it’s still there. I’m pinning money on it involving that t-rex at the back now. God knows how, but it wouldn’t surprise me that another hope part which isn’t their hubs (which I love) causes problems.

    belm
    Member

    Sorry to threadjack gardron, but I’m after some of your bits listed here: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-fox-bits-and-other-random-stuff-from-the-shed and I can’t find your email address.

    Cheers!

    andyl
    Member

    chain joined correctly?

    B-screw set correctly?

    mattmbk
    Member

    Weird ticking noise could be broken pawl springs in Hope freehub. I’ve had it on Hope Pro2 hubs numerous times.

    gardron
    Member

    Yeah, chain is joined correctly – just a KMC quicklink, no stiff links, etc etc. B-screw been checked by 3 mechanics now due to my paranoia that I’d have got it wrong.

    The pawl springs is an interesting one, not heard of that before but it’s definitely worth a check

    chip
    Member

    How frequent is the ticking, once or twice per crank revouloution. Is it erratic or does it have a rhythm .

    ichabod
    Member

    Dont dismiss the FS pivot bearings too easily..

    I spent ages chasing down a click which only happened under drive train load. It sounded and acted EXACTLY like a BB click. It never happened when just bouncing on the bike so I assumed it could not be the pivots. It turned out to be the main pivot near the BB. I guess, loading the drive train will put stress on the pivot in a different direction to the normal forces from suspension movement.

    Before you waste too much time or money messing about with the BB (like I did) just check all of your pivot bolts!

    SiB
    Member

    Same problem here and its a right pita……….but on the positive side i have learnt how to pedal at a certain torque before clicking starts and know what volume to play ipod to drown out the clicking. So slow down and turn your music up, problem sorted.

    I will be watching this thread with interest though, have tried all the above recommendations but clicking persists.

    spooky_b329
    Member

    Does it do it when standing up? Pedalling with one foot? Pedalling without hands on the bars? These all quickly rule out areas without swapping parts.

    Checked the frame for cracks?

    gardron
    Member

    chip: reasonably erratic, definitely no discernible rhythm. I can get one tick every 5 revolutions or 3 per revolution

    ichabod: I checked torques in all the bearings/collets last night, everything seems bang on, which you’d hope as well given that the frame is only a couple of months old. Can’t rule it out at this point but I think the next points of attack are:

    1) Take the existing drivetrain back to 11-36 from 11-40 and see if it goes away
    2) check freehub & pawls / springs
    3) try a new cassette (I’ve got a spare at home)

    If all that fails then I think I’m back to pivots. It’s sounding like it’s around the back wheel now but I’m willing to believe that’s my ears playing tricks on me

    sq225917
    Member

    I’d start from the front and work back. Stem, steerer, grips,brake mounts, cables, seat, post, pedals, bb, cranks, rings, chain, cassette, pivots.

    My money is on the bb or rear hub/cassette interface.

    stoney
    Member

    Don`t you just hate these annoying bike noises….. Fell for that one with the front mech cable hitting the crank arm. 😳
    But the worst one i ever had was a vibrating noise, all the time. Looked at the wheels and any cable that was potentially touching anywhere, nothing. After a week of looking and head scratching, i was washing the bike and found a very small stone resting on top of the rear brake pads…. 🙄

    Tipped bike upside down and the problem was solved….. 💡

    Sounds like it might be your freehub. Several of our locals have hopes and i know that the pawl springs can be noisey.

    gardron
    Member

    New cassette on, moved b-screw back to normal, no difference
    New freehub body on, no difference
    Replaced directmount hanger with normal hanger, no difference
    New bottom bracket in, no difference.
    Checked spoke tension, seems even on each side, if a little low overall but maybe that’s how hope build them
    Took brakes pads out the rear end to make sure it wasn’t rubbing there, no difference
    gone over the frame looking for cracks but can’t see anything (I’d hope not as well for a couple of month old santa cruz which hasn’t been crashed)

    This is doing my nut in.

    gwaelod
    Member

    sazter – Member
    Possibly silly but definitely no cables sticking out and catching on crank arms?

    took me nearly 3 months to realise my front mech cable “tail” was touching my shoe every revolution. the slight tick nearly drove me mad.

    Premier Icon rickon
    Subscriber

    Pedal axle threads. Unscrew from cranks, grease up and torque up properly. Win.

    I had the same noise for ages, changed pedals and still have the tick. Finally decided to regrease and torque up the pedals tight, and it went away. The titanium pedal axle seems to move in the alu crank arms.

    Premier Icon DavidB
    Subscriber

    Check spoke tension

    gardron
    Member

    It’ll be going down to my LBS tomorrow for a check of the rear wheels tension to make sure I haven’t measured it badly.

    I can’t see anything where the cable routing would cause the issue and running 1×10 and a stealth reverb there’s not a lot of tails to catch

    Pedals are always greased, brand new today too, all torqued properly. I haven’t swapped the cranks yet though, so that’s about the last thing I can try if it’s not spoke tension. God, I hope it is.

    Kunstler
    Member

    I had exactly the same problem on my road bike that had been going on for some time before being resolved yesterday. Really off putting, erratic tick that I (and LBS) was convinced was coming from the bottom bracket area was actually a small crack in the seat post clamp.

    It’s such a lovely thing to ride again without that Chinese water torture of distraction detracting from my enjoyment of just riding the bike.

    Gilles
    Member

    Well, I have a Solo and i did have that annoying noise going uphill. After changing a lot of parts and not fixing it, I just used the grease gun to refresh the bearings. It did help as the noise has almost gone now. It re-appears sometime when it’s a steep climb and I have to push harder.

    gardron
    Member

    Cheers Gilles, I’ll break out the greasegun tonight and see if that makes a difference.

    ryderredman
    Member

    Sorry if anyone else has already put this: Have you checked the B tension on the RD?

    gardron
    Member

    Yep, B-tension all fine. Had both a wide-range 11-40 and a standard 11-36 on there now so been changing b-tension between the two to adjust. It is that sort of a noise but no difference whatsoever.

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