My first build – Cotic Soul from mostly Boardman bits – how, what, why, help?!

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  • My first build – Cotic Soul from mostly Boardman bits – how, what, why, help?!
  • Unable to actually ride my bike due to a broken ankle I’ve done the inevitable and started planning a replacement… However I’ve never built a bike before so it’s a new and confusing world for me!

    I currently have a Boardman HT Pro and I’m looking to get a Cotic Soul with (probably) Rockshox Sektor coil u-turns. The Boardman has Elixir R brakes, X9/X0 shifters/mech, Truvativ double+bash crankset, V12 pedals, Hope BB, Ritchey 670mm riser bars, 65mm stem, 400mm Gravity Dropper Classic post, Charge Spoon, all of which I think can swap straight over. Any pitfalls I need to consider with transferring that stuff or any bits that seem inappropriate?

    The Soul needs a different headset – Cotic will fit a Cane Creek or Hope – is the latter worth the extra in the long-run? Is it easily serviceable?

    The Boardman wheels are 9mm QR but I’d like to go for a bolt-thru fork. Should I use my convalescent period to learn how to build a wheel and thus swap the hub and spokes for one that’s QR and bolt-thru compatible so once I get the new frame/forks I can switch the front wheel straight over? Which hub to get? Or should I just buy a complete wheelset? If so I have no idea where to start – help! The rear hub bearings are on their way out – it’s a no-name cartridge bearing hub – is it just as simple as knocking the old bearings out, ordering some new ones, pressing them in and then it’ll be as good as new?

    Any other fork suggestions? Want to run 100mm for XC & woodsy twisty singletrack & small dirt-jumping, 140mm for steeper rockier trails or DH tracks. 

    Any advice much appreciated!

    Premier Icon Rusty Mac

    Front mech may be the wrong size for new seat tube, it may also be a different pull depending on cable routing and mach type.

    Headset i’d go hope to match your BB

    Wheel building see here. It will be cheeper to buy hope hoops than kane them yourself just depends on if you want to be able to build wheels or not for the future.

    Rear hub Duno, build a pair???

    Forks depandant on budget there are haeps out there


    front mech. – there are a few variations – band width, top or bottom pull and top-swing or bottom swing.

    new headset is likely to be sealed cartridge bearings so replace when worn and no maintenance.

    replacing rear wheel cartridge bearings is cheap and as per your post.

    and i’d probably buy a new wheelset ..


    If you are confident/keen, give wheelbuilding a go. Hard to see past a pro 2 for th efront. As for the rear, often bearings can be replaced but check there are no issues with freehub internals/pawls as these may not be replaceable – no point building a duff hub into a new wheel.

    Premier Icon Bushwacked

    Will the BB fit?

    Why won’t the headset fit?

    Do you have a budget?

    Premier Icon Speshpaul

    All your kit looks ok, you’ll need some full lenght cables.
    Hope head set is a nice to have, you wouldn’t be wrong in buying one. I’m a big fan of FSA XL2’s, you can buy them for about £25 and new bearing are £7.
    You could use your time to make a heat set press.
    20mm up front is nice and positive, check wheelpro/Roger Musso’s wheel building book on line (includes how to build a jig etc.)
    For the front wheel you might as well buy a Hope Pro 2, top hub top back up, and you can fit convertors for all the current axle standards.
    Bearings in the rear hub, the tricky bit is getting the free hub off, if this is worn it might be worth buying a new one.
    Again hope rear are good but £130, or check out a DMR revoler 3 pawl for around £50.
    If you don’t fancy wheel building then give me a shout.
    Forks, i’m running Magura Thors at the moment and they are impressive.
    Also had Menja’s on my Soul which were very good, shame they were only QR and not bolt through.


    I went for the Cane Creek because I’ve bought them before and found them solid.

    Not so for whatever ones cotic got a deal on. More wobble than a wobbly jelly thing with excessive wobble.

    Premier Icon Speshpaul

    When i did this

    I built these

    In to this

    Good luck and enjoy your build


    The cables are interrupted on a soul so you don’t need full length outer, in fact if you wanted to run full length you couldn’t use the guides.
    Sektors would suit the soul well, i have 454 uturn air pikes on mine. You’d be fine with most sealed cartridge bearing headsets,the hope is a very good one though. As for wheels i’d bite the bullet and get some hope hoops, stans are popular, i have en521’s on my hopes which are also nice strong rims.
    If it was my build i’d be looking to buy:

    forks – sektors if on a budget
    wider bars
    hope hoops
    new front mech
    hope headset (or cc if on a budget)
    Superstar nano’s or similar low profile wide platform pedals

    Enjoy and post up pics of the build when finished.

    Premier Icon Speshpaul

    Sorry, cable aren’t full lenght at all, i was talking bollox and not for the 1st time.

    Thanks for all the help, I’m making some progress!

    Budget is fairly flexible – I’m not someone that chops and changes often and I’m a one MTB person. The Boardman was my first after a thirteen year break, I’ve had it for about 18 months, bought it expecting to just being doing XC stuff round the South Downs but have found myself mostly doing more aggressive singletrack riding in the woods and visiting trail centres, thus it’s been modified to suit but there’s only so far you can go. Having broken my ankle I’m concerned that I might be tempting fate if I continue to try to go faster and faster down steep rocky places on a bike that isn’t really built for it…

    Anyway, I want to get this bike right and leave it be (I’ve done the same thing with bass guitars – starter bass for a few years (but I was starting from scratch), then a rather nice secondhand production bass that I played for about ten years, then an uber-niche custom-made oddity that I’ve had for the last few years) so if for instance the Sektors are too compromised I’m willing to spend more – I’d rather pay more once than have to upgrade.

    I’ll go with the Hope headset. (The Boardman headset is an FSA semi-integrated one so I don’t believe it’ll fit).

    I’ll take this rear hub apart and see what condition it’s in. If it’s all good I’ll replace the cartridge bearings and leave it be.

    Lower profile pedals would be nice but I wouldn’t want bigger ones – I’ll run these V12s until they die, they stick to my AM40s very well – and then look for something thinner. I’d like wider bars if it wasn’t for the trees round here – go past 700mm and you’re forever getting stuck! As it is I don’t use lock-on grips and I ride with my hands as far out on the bars as possible, sliding in a bit when it gets too tight to fit through without bruised knuckles.

    So, more questions: I had totally overlooked the front mech issue – I thought all I’d needed was a shim to fit the skinny seat tube but as the cable routing is from above rather than below it’s a different pull. Damn! So if I understand correctly I need a top pull 28.6mm front mech – any reason not to go for an X9 one of these? As I ride double+bash and have no intention of ever returning to a triple, can I get a double specific front mech?

    Wheels: I have almost no idea where to start: Hope Pro 2 front hub makes sense. I guess I’ll need a set of shorter spokes too. Will investigate the costs of that vs a fully built wheel. It does look though that once I’ve bought the parts and the tools it might cost more than buying a whole wheel, so the economics of that depend on how many wheels I’m planning to build in the future. With a new wheelset it will have a new rim – my current rims are skinny XC ones (some Ritchey WCS thing) which are very light and I’ve never had a problem with them but then again with my skill levels there’s only so hard you can hit things on a XC HT and stay on.

    I like using quite fat tyres (Bontrager XR4 2.2 – bit wider than a High Roller 2.35 and quite a bit taller) so would wider rims be wise? I guess this is where I hit the “light, strong, cheap, pick any two” dilemma. I’d like light-ish, strong-ish and cheap-ish please! I run ghetto tubeless so I think any rim will work with that – any benefit to UST/TR rims?

    Right, the forks dilemma:

    Sektor 100-140 coil u-turn – cheap, presumably nice and active with the coil spring, middling weight, simple, low maintenance, too bobby when standing and pedalling?
    TALAS 32 100-140 – expensive, tweakable, light, better damping, high maintenance
    Magura Thor – don’t know much about them, advice please!
    Other options?

    15mm or 20mm bolt-thru? Presumably all these heavier-duty forks have much more tyre clearance than the Rebas I currently have – I like to run big tyres all year round so the more mud clearance the better! Very hard to find clearance specs on the manufacturers’ sites.

    Sorry that got so long – my esteemed thanks if you’ve bothered to read this and can help me out!



    My thoughts. CK headset – hope are okay but everyone in our gang who has had one has changed to CK. Semi-integrated will not fit the Cotic Soul, you need a std headset.

    Hope pro 2 hubs and 719 rims. Whatever you do get the Hope pro2 front hub as it is interchangable from QR, 15mm and 20mm bolt through.

    Simple as possible – of your choice I would go with 15mm Fox Tatas 32’s I have some you can try before making a choice, let me know.

    My bars are very wide and I get through everything (usually!). I have some spare Easton CNT DH bars if you want to try them before deciding.

    I use either standard LX or XT front mechs with SRAM X9 gears, in my experience SRAM front mechs are ru**ish. I also use LX or XT cransets and replce the outer ring with a bashguard. Ronnie has the SLX Db and bash setup so may be worth inspecting his before taking the plunge.

    Bin/sell you existing wheels. Buy some superstar switch XC wheels.
    Forget the front mech, and shifter, 1×9 with a light chain device.
    Flog the Reba fork that came with the Boardman

    I don’t reckon you’ll get much for the frame despite the fact that it’s quite good. I’ll take it off your hands if its a medium 😉

    This really is very confusing!

    I could keep using the Boardman’s wheels, just with the front hub changed and the rear hub serviced – but am I going to end up breaking them as I ride harder and faster on the Soul? If so then I guess it makes economic sense to change the bearings on both and sell them whilst they’re still in near-perfect condition (as in I haven’t noticed any dings etc)

    If I’m getting new wheels front and rear, and I already ride tubeless, just ghetto, might it be worth going UST? I think the current rims are 17mm so going up to 19mm makes sense bearing in mind my tyre sizes.

    If the CK headset will last twice as long as the Hope then it too makes economic sense.

    Am happy to go with a cheaper front mech, it’s not like it’s a piece of precision engineering like the rear mech.

    Mr Lightyear, you’re welcome to buy the surplus frame but there’s no way you’re persuading me that I want to do without my granny ring – I like lazily spinning on chilled out group rides! Am open to the Superstar Switch wheels if they’re good enough quality – which exact model would be closest to a Mavic 719 (higher grade alloy 19mm rim)?

    Any thoughts on 15mm vs 20mm bolt-thru? Other 140mm max forks which go up and down (in travel, not go up and down generally)?


    am I going to end up breaking them as I ride harder and faster on the Soul?

    ….and how did you break that ankle?

    My Soul was built up with my old Rockhopper Pro parts. I went with a Hope headset which is great and easy to service (did it last week along with forks) – does everything I could ever ask of a headset….

    I’ve thought about a longer travel fork but have stuck with the forks that came with the Rockhopper so far – Reba SL, spacer removed to give 115 mm travel. Can’t say that I won’t try a longer travel fork in the long run but 115-120 is probably about right for fast woodland singletrack.

    The Soul is a great frame!

    I was riding rather slowly uphill – a rare saddle all the way up moment. Unfortunately I underestimated the ice…

    I know what you mean – I could keep the Reba’s but the Boardman is really good at twisty woodland singletrack – its limitation is the lack of stability when things get fast, rough and steep, and I don’t know how much axle-crown height the Soul will need to have a significant advantage. The Magura Thor is looking appealing but (as happened when the £600 budget turned into a £1000 expenditure) the costs are spiralling out of control.

    I wonder what an HT Pro frame, pair of wheels and Reba Race forks are worth?



    As the Boardman has an integrated headset that defo has to change, I would say you’ll be fine with a Hope, but as per Mike I’d spend a bit more and go for a CK if you can afford it. Mine’s on it’s fifth or sixth year now still running fine, shop around and they don’t cost a lot more.

    Next, seatpost, looks like the Boardman is 27.2mm so you’ll be fine swapping that over (Double check diameter though), and the Soul comes with collar so you’re fine there.

    As others have mentioned, front mech. I run Shimano so have had no problems with changing diameters as it’s one fits all now with a couple of shims, not so sure on the SRAM stuff.

    Other than that you might as well go for new inner and outer gear cables anyway, and if you are really unlucky you won’t get away with the existing lengths of disc brakes hose – unlikely though.

    With regards to the wheels, if it was me I’d be looking at a set of new Hope Hoops, Pro II hubs with Stans Flow rims. The Hope front hub can be set-up for 9mm QR, 15mm or 20mm. I had the Pro II hubs before on Mavic 719 rims, really good, in fact they were about 5 years old and have moved on to another home now, still going strong. I was going to replace with Hope Hoops with Flows, up until the point I decided to treat myself to CK hubs laced to Flow rims instead 😈 Only criticism I have of the Hopes is the front bearings didn’t seem to last too well, but the hubs are very easy to service yourself.

    Forks are a little more tricky. Personally I am a Rockshox fan, but still had a good chat with a few people. Very nearly went Fox, but in the end went with Maxle Rebas at 120mm. Having had the Maxle on my Pikes, I love them and defo wanted to go down that route. From experience I’m happy with the servicing intervals on Rockshox, but then I’ve heard plenty of good stories about Fox. Dobby went with the Floats on his Soul and having ridden both, there’s not a lot in it. Did like the Terralogic he had on them though 😉

    Personally I found adjustable forks a waste, the only advantage was being able to initially run the Pikes on a frame designed for shorter travel. Once they were on a 140mm adjusted bike, that’s where they stayed. If you’ve paid for it use it. I think there were 2 times I recall winding them down for really steep climbs. Bit like lock out, I don’t use it, I’ve paid for the suspension so I’ll use it. My Rebas came with a poploc and I haven’t fitted it. Anyway, veering off a bit there. I tried a Genesis a while back with 120mm Maxle Rebas and loved them, very stiff and not hugely different to the Pikes, it made me question if I really needed 140mm. So when I went with the Soul I decided to go with 120mm and haven’t missed the extra 20mm so far, seems fine for everything I normally ride. I think 120mm suits the Soul perfectly, oh and have no clearance issues either.

    Premier Icon andytherocketeer

    When I looked at SRAM for my Soul, iirc most mechs only fitted 2 of the 3 common sizes out of the box. Only Shimano fitted the 28.6 seat tube as well. Think there’s plenty of 2 position mechs now, but not sure about shifters.

    Hope wheels seem to get raved about a lot and are easily changed between 9mm QR / 15mm & 20mm thru axle (and other standards like X12 at the back). But Hope wheels are the only ones I’ve seen with cracked hubs. I want someone to convince me that that’s not going to be an issue for me at 100kg on a Soul before I splash the cash on new wheels.

    Getting headset supplied & fitted is a good move. Tried the wood and hammer trick on another of my bikes, but there’s no way it was going to go in straight. I got Hope on mine. The split ring crown race makes it easy to swap forks. Normal Ritchey crown race was a right PITA to fit on my CX bike, to the extent that I bought and fitted Hope before (a) I did damage, or (b) got out the dremel.

    Premier Icon mboy

    Hope headsets are massively over-rated… Get yourself an FSA Orbit Extreme Pro for about £30 or less (RRP is £90, but there’s loads around cheaply), or even cheaper go for an XL2 at around £20. Both are better quality products for less money.

    Front mech on the Soul, you will need a 28.6 band, top pull front mech. Expect the boardman has a 31.8 on it at the moment.

    Wheel wise, well as you really want to upgrade to a bolt through front, go for a set of Hope Hoops. Probably on some Stans rims, as these can be run tubeless very easily in the future (which brings lots of advantages, and your bontrager tyres are already tubeless compatible). It will be cheaper and more convenient in the long run than building your own, though I can’t stress how useful it is to be able to at least true your own wheels going forward, so it might be worth practicing on your old wheels.

    Fork wise, I’d go for something like a Rockshox Revelation on a Soul myself. And probably run it closer to 125-130mm of travel for optimal all round handling. I’d stick with Rockshox though for definite, Fox are nice but fiddly and expensive.

    There’s no good reason to stick a 180mm rotor on the front is there? Never been short of power with my current brakes.

    Premier Icon BadlyWiredDog

    This really is very confusing!

    Yeah, it’s because people tend to recommend what they have on their own bikes… erm, like this:

    In your shoes I’d be looking at a Cane Creek S-3 headset – just works and is cheap – set of Hope Hoops with Flows on Pro 2 – ace for running tubeless conversions, pretty tough, pretty light and easy to service. I ran Coil U-Turn Sektors on my Blue Pig and they’re a really good trail fork for the money and while I guess they might have the same high speed rebound issues as the Pike in 95% rocky speedy stuff, that’s less likely to be an issue on a hardtail unless you’re very aggressive and fast. Revs have better high speed rebound this year and are lighter, but then they cost a fair bit more and are less straightforward to set up than coils. I like the 20mm Maxle option, but I live in the Peak and ride a lot of rocky stuff.

    The only time I’ve used Thors, I was pretty underwhelmed. Seemed either to dive through the travel or hardly move at all. Marzocchi 44 Ti thingees are getting good reports at the moment, but I’ve not used them, so no idea.

    if you’re worried about the Hope hubs, maybe look at the DT Swiss 240s as an alternative. I like mine, but you do need a special tool to service one set of the hub bearings. I dare say people break those as well though. On my 405 I run a DT240s rear and Pro 2 front – good compatibility – with Flows and they’ve been a reliable, tough but light wheel-set for the last couple of years with a lot of riding.

    There’s a series of good wheel reviews on Bikeradar at the moment too, maybe worth a browse? I guess they’re from What Mountain Bike.

    Premier Icon BadlyWiredDog

    There’s no good reason to stick a 180mm rotor on the front is there? Never been short of power with my current brakes.

    Depends… bigger rotor, easier one-finger braking, better (doh) heat dissipation on longer stuff – Spain, Alps etc. Try your originals and upgrade if you feel the need for more, maybe . It’s just a bigger rotor and an adaptor after all.


    I would just strip everthing off the Boardman and see what transfers over to the Soul. You’ll most likely need a seat tube as most skinny steel frames are smaller diameter – prob a 27.2 but worth checking.

    Right, I think I’m making some mental progress. I can’t see much point skimping on the build but that means it’ll be rather expensive. So a three step plan:

    1. Service the Boardman hubs (and headset if possible). Service my Reba Race forks (probably a bit overdue) and find out if they can be lengthened to 120mm travel by removing a spacer. Get titanium-enhanced right leg working again and start riding, getting my fitness back and working on skillz. Try Bobster’s Soul – possible SPDs (Bobster) vs flats (me) compatibility issue?

    2. Last year I said I wanted to be able to bunny-hop by next summer. Practise, practise, practise. Once I’m competent reward myself with a Soul, front mech, new cables and CK headset. Swap everything else off the Boardman and change the Reba’s to 120mm. Ride bike lots – get better at less small drops and jumps.

    3. At some point get a nice bolt-thru 100-140 fork if it feels like a worthwhile upgrade – and at the same point also get some Hope Hoops with Pro 2 hubs and Stan’s Flows. Ride bike lots more.


    Rebas at 120mm will be quite nice on the Soul, if you feel under forked you can upgrade further down the line. One thing is for sure though, you definately won’t regret buying a Soul.

    Just a thought – am I going to be killed to death if I ride the Boardman with the forks at 120mm? It’s less than 5% extra axle-crown length so in terms of leverage on the headtube it’s no more load than if I rode the same but weighed half a stone more.

    I’m very interested to find out how a quality steel frame feels compared to an aluminium alloy one – the engineering sceptic in me doubts it’ll be as big an improvement as when I stuck some proper tyres on the Boardman but I’m hoping I’ll be pleasantly surprised!


    Maybe take it one step at a time to keep the cost under control just for the moment?

    If you follow the service instructions off the Rockshox website you will be able to remove the travel spacer out of the Reba to get it upto the full 120mm travel. Yes you need a bit of suspension oil and probably some circlip pliers amongst one or two other things, but you ought to service your fork anyway so its not money wasted
    From friends and the singletrack mag review I was under the impression that a soul is probably best with a 120mm fork anyway
    If you really want to stiffen up the fork a touch in the mean time you could get a DT Swiss RWS (££) or for eg Halo Hex skewers for £9/pair, and make sure your front wheel is tensioned up properly

    If you like the reba at 120mm, you might decide you can stomach the price for the 20mm (or 15mm) lowers and sort the front hub/wheels from there

    “Hard to see past a pro 2 for th efront”
    A ZTR 20mm is the same price and lighter than a Pro II 20mm, and has cheaper 15mm/QR adapters (going by JustRidingAlong) anyway

    “or check out a DMR revoler 3 pawl for around £50”
    Shimano XT (36 point pick up) if you add more grease from new and keep on top of any play that could develop could be had for that sort of money. SLX (32 point pickkup) can be had for less though you loose the oversize axle of the XT
    A friend of mine had problems with the DMR (30 point pickup) snapping the QR adapters on it
    Hope Pro II have 24 point pickup for reference (as do the non 120point superstars I think)

    Headset wise, on-one have FSA Orbit X (I think) for £15 from about £50. I think 95g weight

    “you can fit convertors for all the current axle standards”
    Not quite? maverick, specialized e150, cannondale lefty won’t fit will they?

    “I thought all I’d needed was a shim to fit the skinny seat tube but as the cable routing is from above rather than below it’s a different pull. Damn! So if I understand correctly I need a top pull 28.6mm front mech – any reason not to go for an X9 one of these? As I ride double+bash and have no intention of ever returning to a triple, can I get a double specific front mech?”
    You should be able to shim the front mech, if you can get hold of one, from experience at least SLX/XT front mechs (perhaps called multifit on CRC for eg) come with the shims
    A bottom swing (one that clamps above the shifting cage) mech IME will catch less mud than a top swing (one where the shift cage is above the clamp band) and as such will develop play less quickly. Plus on a hardtail I think it helps to break up the length of the downtube
    I don’t know about SRAM mechs, but SLX/XT mechs I’ve had will let you run the cable in either pull direction. For the top swing models at least there is only 3g between the SLX and XT models. The XT one has ‘XT’ cut out into it ..
    As far as I remember you can use a double front mech with a triple front shifter, though unless you match the double front mech with a double specific front shifter are you really gaining anything over a triple mech/shifter and just winding in the high stop so it won’t go further than the middle ring?
    Plus you ought to find better deals on triple mechs as shops will generally shift more of them

    “Sektor 100-140 coil u-turn “
    I thought they were 105-150mm, or perhaps 95-140mm. Either way coil U-turn rockshox have 45mm of travel adjust

    “Magura Thor – don’t know much about them, advice please!”
    100-140mm, but nowhere in between which could be an issue on a soul. 20mm axle
    2010/2011 ones are supposed to be excellent, 2008/2009 supposed to be very divey
    Can be had for £480 from the right place

    “719 rims”
    Though I’ve not dented by XM719s, they’re still not particularly wide either generally or when you compare them to the 460g weight, they’re not that cheap either
    Though they will still run bigger tyres okay, I reckon a 2.35″ maxxis/2.2″ bontrager or so is about as big as they can take without rounding the tyre profile too much

    A ZTR Arch has the same internal diameter but is 40g lighter for eg

    “am I going to be killed to death if I ride the Boardman with the forks at 120mm?”
    Probably not, run them with a bit more sag% and don’t go overboard on the jumps/drops perhaps. Obviously I could be completely wrong and you’ll be killed to death ..

    EDIT: I typed some of that before reading everyones posts beforehand, so there may well be some overlap

    Premier Icon p7rich

    I’m very interested to find out how a quality steel frame feels compared to an aluminium alloy one – the engineering sceptic in me doubts it’ll be as big an improvement as when I stuck some proper tyres on the Boardman but I’m hoping I’ll be pleasantly surprised!

    Alex, You’re very welcome to to have a spin on my P7 when you’re up and about. I’ve recently added Flows on Pro 2s and i’m lovin’ it. The newer SC has hardly had a look in. Glad you’re keeping your mind occupied 🙂


    Premier Icon majorupset

    I’m in the same situation – facing the same dilemma (which is great 😉

    I’ve had an old Spesh Epic lying around for a year or so, and recently decided to buy a Cotic Soul – and build up a new bike. Initially (naively) I thought I would just take the kit off the old bike and stick it on the new frame – simples !

    Not so my young padawan. So far i’ve bought a new seatpost and stem – i’ve gone for RaceFace Deux (just to be different from my other bikes)… needed to order a shim for the front mech (shimano XT) – Wiggle for £2.

    The forks are the Fox F100 from the Epic – I think I’m going to want to swap them for bigger ones – but thought I would try them first… but they might be ebay bound.

    Part of me just wants it all sorted so I can get out on it – but the other part of me is really enjoying the slow buildup – new bits going on every couple of days… excitement building.

    Will post some more pictures on when complete.

    Premier Icon BigJohn

    I had both a 100mm and a 130mm Magura fork on my Soul. At different times, obviously.

    I prefer the 130, I found the 100 made it a little bit twichy, but there’s not a lot in it and I know some people prefer the 100.

    Well, at the weekend I tried to get the forks apart to remove the spacer. Did not succeed as I didn’t want to hit the press-fit bits any harder than I already was… Phoned my LBS regarding sorting the forks, mentioned the Soul thing and one thing led to another and they now have a collection of Boardman bits going onto the medium orange Soul which just happened to be in stock. Keeping everything bar the frame, headset and front mech. Looks very nice in the metal and lighter than I expected – am excited! Just hope these particular Reba’s will go to 120mm…

    Incidentally I tried their medium Soda with similar bars/stem to mine and it’s a nice fit, smaller (less tall) than I expected in a good way. They thought I was close to needing the large and said a small would be like a BMX on me. Should be getting it onto a (kindly leant) turbo soon and then out into the real world once the ankle feels stable…

    The delegated (yes, cop out!) build is finished.

    Premier Icon wwaswas

    I do like the contrast with the door 🙂

    Do you know what colour that door is (paintcode or something) my beach hut needs a new door colour and that might just be it.

    hope your ankles well enough to ride it soon!


    The forks do go to120mm – I had the same boardman.


    I’ll find out about the colour! 😉

    Apparently these forks were the 80/100mm variety so the spacers were already out. I’m surprised how much slacker than the Boardman it feels with the same fork length. I’ll only know if bigger forks are required in many months time when my ankle health and schedule allows some hard riding somewhere steep and gnarly! Gravity Dropper feels ace (though I’ve only tested it on the turbo – pedal gently, drop! hold attack position, ow ankle a bit weak and stiff, saddle up, repeat). Rad…

    Premier Icon chakaping

    Lovely colour door.

    Bike’s OK I suppose, wouldn’t have the dropper post on one of them myself.



    Looking good


    Whoever thought to paint that door that colour was inspired, it’s lush, and it makes me want to lick it….


    Pimpin, got to get myself a soul in medium size in that colour too


    “Apparently these forks were the 80/100mm variety so the spacers were already out”
    Eh? that a new one (to me)
    The original?/previous reba was internally adjustable from 85-115mm, the current one 90-120mm?

    I know of newer air recon/toras being 100mm max, but until this I was sure rebas were 120mm max (with no spacers)

    How possible is it the LBS are spouting tosh?
    It would give them more chance of selling you something else and get them out of possibly damaging your forks?

    Which bit of getting to the travel spacer is troubling you?

    Which bit of getting to the travel spacer is troubling you?

    Merely getting the fork lowers off for a start!

    It does feel nice at 100mm though, so I can live with that for the forseeable future. Would be good to know how the hell to get the forks apart for the next service though – and then I can personally investigate the travel/spacer situation.


    Here’s mine with Revs at 130mm. Seems pretty good to me, feels good at 140 too but front end is a bit noodley.

    Cracking bike, built it just before Christmas to replace a Chameleon which I don’t miss in the slightest.

    I’m afraid I don’t have a green door, but the workstand contrasts nicely…

    Premier Icon cy

    My I join the group and say that build looks mint! Hope your convelescence goes well. Who’s your LBS?

    Premier Icon Leku

    IMGP3282 by jh_buchanan, on Flickr

    Well if we are going picies….

    140mm Revs

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