Viewing 37 posts - 1 through 37 (of 37 total)
  • Moving from road to mtb…
  • prhymeate
    Free Member

    I’ve ridden road for the last 10 years or so and just last week my first full suspension mtb arrived. Holy crap does it feel weird!

    It’s a lot of fun but it’s definitely going to take a bit of getting used to before I feel confident on it. I’m getting used to riding flats again but think I need to tweak my setup as I keep finding the pedal in the middle of my foot rather than towards the front. Also the 800mm bars feel so wide even though I’m 6’4. I’ll give them a bit of time but I think cutting off a couple of cm’s would feel more comfortable.

    Does anyone who has made the same transition have any tips, or do I just need to get out there and ride the thing?

    fasthaggis
    Full Member

    have any tips

    Don’t run before you can walk. 😉

    At first,just get to know your bike and do the same trails for a while.

    sirromj
    Full Member

    Foot should be further forward on MTB pedal than you’re used to on a road bike.
    Give the bike a chance before making irreversible changes such as cutting bars (or steerer).
    Or put another way, give your body a chance to adapt.

    hols2
    Free Member

    I keep finding the pedal in the middle of my foot rather than towards the front.

    Apparently, that’s how you’re supposed to do it these days.

    I never got used to really wide bars. Tried some 800 mm ones, cut them down to 760. Obvious thing is just cut a little bit at a time. Or buy some cheap ones to play with until you find the width you like.

    erictwinge
    Free Member

    you are allowed to smile and say hello to other riders now.

    joemmo
    Free Member

    yes pedal under the arch with flats and keep your heels down on rough terrain, not on tip toes as with clips. Just ride it basically, the main thing you may need to adjust to is involving your whole body in riding the bike. Also, don’t cut the bars yet, just fit some longer grips until you discover where you want your hand position

    flicker
    Free Member

    you are allowed to smile and say hello to other riders now.

    😀

    joebristol
    Full Member

    As above – the pedal in the middle of the foot is meant to be the correct place with flats. You want to keep your heels down whilst descending on flats to get the most grip you can get. Takes a bit of getting used to.

    Bar wise 800mm is quite wide – probably the fashionable width to have. If after riding it for a while it still feels too wide then hacksaw a centimetre from each end to take it to 780mm and then the that for a while.

    I’m 5’9 and have settled on 780’s as being about right for me – but it’s personal preference.

    masterdabber
    Free Member

    A bit similar to OP in that I was a roadie for about 12 years but last year suffered a minor pulmonary embolism following a long non-stop drive across France. Fortunately no lasting damage cause and I seem to have got away with it. No on-going treatment.

    Having said that, it made me re-assess my view on what I want from cycling. I decided that going balls out on every ride was a bit stupid and that I should enjoy the ride more. As a result I resurrected my old 90’s rigid Scott Sawtooth previously only used for family type meandering and ventured onto a few trails. I really enjoyed it so a few months later I bought a Bossnut (780 bars btw).

    That made a terrific difference to my confidence levels and I’ve just gradually pushed myself into doing harder trails (by my standards). I just go out and ride…. my area is Swinley, Mytchett, Porridgepots, Tunnel Hill, Minley etc.

    Some trails I chicken out on, then carefully try and have a “go” and providing I get down OK I’ll  return to and try and do a bit better. I love the challenge. I tend to get up hills fairly well and I guess that is a result of my roadie experience.

    I find going out and riding trails that I had previously been very nervous about really satisfying even if they are probably trails that aren’t really very challenging.

    Bottom line… I just love it and rarely use my road bikes at the moment.  Go have fun.

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    800 bars are kind of at the extreme, to be fair. IF your grips aren’t enclosed at the end, you can try moving everything inboard gradually (5/10mm a time) to find your sweet spot and then cut the bars down.

    hols2
    Free Member

    Also, if you don’t have a dropper post, get one. Makes a massive difference.

    trumpton
    Free Member

    Move your body more on corners learning the inside of the bike with the upper body well the bars and hips and the outside of the body at the cranks.i think that’s explained right.

    prhymeate
    Free Member

    Cheers for all the replies everyone. Good to know that maybe my feet are in the right place then, it’ll just take a bit of getting used to.

    I have a dropper but I am so used to holding the same position on a road bike that if anything it feels more out of control moving about on the bike, especially if the saddle is down because I feel like I’m not putting enough weight on the rear…again, another thing to get used to I think.

    My grips have an end to them. I’ll look at getting some that don’t so I can try different widths before cutting them if I still feel they’re too wide after a couple of months.

    Oh yea, I’ll try and remember to smile at other rides too 🙂

    ayjaydoubleyou
    Full Member

    My grips have an end to them. I’ll look at getting some that don’t so I can try different widths before cutting them if I still feel they’re too wide after a couple of months.

    most grips are a lot wider than your hands. just try moving the brakes and shifter in 10mm at a time and see where your hands naturally sit.

    Normal widths these days is 750 to 800, so you’d realistically only be going down an inch at either end.

    Most importantly, use that dropper. That space where the saddle was, your hips/crotch should be moving in and out of that area constantly; as you lean the bike under you in corners – bike leans more than the rider; and as you go up and down to enable you to push the bike into the floor.

    singletrackmind
    Full Member

    Your tyre pressure will be too high. Aiming for squashy like an orange is a good guide.
    You have to do more prep to go round corners fast. Hip steer, outside hand weighted, heel down, outside pedal down. Look through the corner.
    Try and make like a gorilla with the bars, elbows wide c head up
    Lessons are good if you wamt want to be faster and safer

    molgrips
    Free Member

    the pedal in the middle of the foot is meant to be the correct place with flats

    I’m going to go against the flow here and suggest moving to the traditional position on climbs and use the middle of the foot for descents and singletrack.

    If you’ve moved from road you need to ask yourself what you want from your MTBing. Many people (apparently) assume that if you are on an MTB you are all into the technical riding and getting rad and fast on descents. But that is only one style of MTB. There are many, and all equally valid:

    – Technical trail riding
    – Hardcode technical challenge
    – Covering ground in the mountains/woods and getting out there
    – Going on adventures and getting to really remote locations
    – Being a fitness fanatic and getting really fast and fit
    – Mucking about with your mates having a laugh and ending up at the pub

    I’ve probably missed some out. So don’t feel that MTBing is all about the technical trails and gnar, cos it’s not. At least one person I know felt pressured into doing that when it wasn’t his style.

    jamesoz
    Full Member

    Agree with Molgrips. As for the dropper post use it, think how much faster you can corner with a lower centre of gravity also if you can bend your legs more it effectively gives you more suspension travel. So rather than getting hit up the arse by the saddle when you run out of travel your knees can absorb the shock.
    One of the reason for chubby MTB riders is often decent technique is faster than pure fitness.

    As for bar length, as said it’s quite personal. I’ve settled on around 780mm myself at 6′ ish.

    longmover
    Free Member

    The most important thing to remember is smiles are more important than miles.

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    another thing to get used to I think.

    The one biggest thing I’ve seen transitional roadies have an issue with is the bike moving around underneath them.  Letting the bike move, relaxing and not fighting the bike will Pay dividends.  Forget all the above until you’ve done that and gained some confidence.

    mudfish
    Full Member

    Well done. Good decision if you like fun.

    mudfish
    Full Member

    Line up the front edge of the flat pedal with the bone at vase of big toe. On flats it’s far better not to use a roadie foot position. And practice dropping your heels
    At 6’4” your next bike should be a Geometron G1.

    mudfish
    Full Member

    Don’t cut those bars. Test with grips moved in if you just. I’m 6’2” on 820s and my hands are right at the ends
    Make sure you’re not allowing your back to round (roadie style) and shoulders to relax forward. You need the serratus activated. No flying wing shoulder blades please.

    Do A LOT of standing to pedal. Leave the seat down
    Climbs definitely (except fire roads maybe) but seat down and standing in all tech singletrack if you can. You will be rewarded with far better bike handling.

    Google Fabien Barel on cornering and watch his ace YouTube series. He’s the man when it comes to handling.

    crikey
    Free Member

    You’ll need to get used to the idea that mountain bikers assume their hobby is second only to Formula 1 in terms of complexity, when it’s really just middle aged blokes mucking about on expensive toys…

    Blackflag
    Free Member

    Stand up going downhill. Thats the main thing.

    IdleJon
    Full Member

    – Technical trail riding
    – Hardcode technical challenge
    – Covering ground in the mountains/woods and getting out there
    – Going on adventures and getting to really remote locations
    – Being a fitness fanatic and getting really fast and fit
    – Mucking about with your mates having a laugh and ending up at the pub

    And all of those things can be done in the one ride, just like last night.

    (Except point 3 because we only got about a mile from a main road despite having a great view over the hills and bay, feeling lie we were really remote. And the pub bit, of course, because the pubs are still closed here in Wales, and we are too responsible to buy beer and sit on the beach drinking it with some nice beef jerky. 😀 )

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    You’ll need to get used to the idea that mountain bikers assume their hobby is second only to Formula 1 in terms of complexity, when it’s really just middle aged blokes mucking about on expensive toys…

    Please go to the back of the class, and take your Orange 5 with you. 😉

    crikey
    Free Member

    Orange 5?

    I started riding that long ago that Orange 5s represent new fangled technology to me!

    daern
    Free Member

    I’m getting used to riding flats again but think I need to tweak my setup as I keep finding the pedal in the middle of my foot rather than towards the front.

    I’ve oscillated once or twice over the years, but I have to accept that I am just a much happier rider with SPDs and would prefer to enjoy my riding rather than insist on using flat pedals that I really don’t enjoy riding any more.

    Your situation may be different, of course, but if the pedals are becoming an issue for you, stick SPDs on and don’t give it any more thought. There’s plenty of us out there using them 🙂

    lunge
    Full Member

    Get rid of the flats for a start, don’t make it harder for yourself than needed, SPD’s are better for 99% of riding anyway.

    The big difference for me is mentioned above, use your upper body more on the bumps, in the corners, even up short and steep climbs. A dropper helps this (though is by no means essential, see other threads for this debate).

    800mm is wider than I ride and I’m the same height with arms borrowed from a monkey. 760mm is what I run, but you’ll find a balance in time.

    MTB rides seem to stop more, as a roadie you’ll be used to going non-stop for 3 or 4 hours, that’s not the game on am MTB, a stop at the top of each climb is normal. Not an insult, but I found this odd when I went out with MTB groups after a while on the road.

    And finally, don’t worry about buying new kit. Lycra is the best tool for the job road or off road. Don’t listen to anyone who tells you otherwise.

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    Yeah, commit to clips. Flats are very fashionable but if you’re more comfortable clipped in, clip in. I have much better bike control in technical stuff and find climbing more efficient on SPDs.

    As for your bars, it is worth experimenting. I’ve ridden 800s for nearly 4 years and keep meaning to try something narrower as it is right at the extreme end of bar width. I find them especially wide now I ride in the Scottish Borders all the time where there’s a lot of trees very close together rather than the Peak District where I used to live.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    I ride clips and flats but mostly clips. Flats are definitely harder work and only of benefit if you are challenging yourself on techy stuff. Which isn’t necessarily what it’s all about, see above.

    trumpton
    Free Member

    The most important thing is to have fun rather than just suffering

    prhymeate
    Free Member

    Thanks again for the replies. I’ve been for a couple more rides and am feeling more comfortable on the bike. I moved the brakes/gears in a cm or so which feels a lot better. I have big hands so would like to try wider diameter grips at some point as I’m sometimes pinching the tips of my fingers with my palm.

    I move the saddle a bit higher and further back and my feet aren’t slipping quite so far. The pedal is still in the middle of my foot but feels more planted. Climbing still feels a bit odd but I think that’s just the difference between road and fs mtb.

    I’ve chosen to stick with flats for now, partly because I don’t want to splash out for new shoes but also because I’d read it’s good to ride flats at the start to develop form (bunny hops etc) and in case I want to bail out. I imagine I’ll switch to clipless eventually though.

    I was more of a solo road cyclist but I might seek out a meetup group or something so I can be pushed a bit and get tips from people.

    trumpton
    Free Member

    Glad your getting better and more comfortable.might as well try baggies next.stick with the flats for confidence.

    longmover
    Free Member

    Flats are great to learn to ride on mainly because you are not attached and can get off the bike quickly. Also, stay loose and let the bike do the work.

    ampthill
    Full Member

    I really like flats and ride with the ball of my foot over the pedal Spindle.

    I think riding the same bit if trail in different ways and Getting to know it works well.

    Work on a really good stance stood up for rough sections and obstacles. YouTube it if not sure

    Get a dropper and use it

    Look ahead

    Use bending your arms etc. to move your weight around

    Have fun and enjoy researching routes that work for you

    twisty
    Full Member

    When I get on MTB after after doing nothing but road biking for a few months I have to consciously remind myself to move my weight back more on the technical downhills and transitions, usually after I’ve fallen off.

    6’2″ and I like my bars about 670mm wide, but I guess I am a bit olde skool.

Viewing 37 posts - 1 through 37 (of 37 total)

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