- Motorcyclists – I need some warm kit
OK, need some advice here. I’m starting to feel the cold so I’m after so very warm kit – specifically gloves and a jacket.
Summer riding I’m sorted for. Currently for winter, I have a Weise textile jacket, with thermal liner. It’s pretty rugged, waterproof but c.20 years old. It’s fine in Autumn, but I’m feeling cold in winter. Gloves, I have Triumph waterproof winter ones, but again, they’re old and feel as though the lining has thinned out (plus my son’s now nicked them!).
Do Goretex jackets really help with warmth (cutting out wind?) Vs brand’s own waterproof layers? Textile better than leather?
Waterproof is an optional benefit, not essential. I don’t want to go heated at the moment. Plus I’ll be trying to buy secondhand but happy to spend a bit for warmth and quality (long lasting).
So recommendations for a very warm jacket and gloves.
Thanks!Posted 1 year ago
I know you said you dont want heated, but have a look at Gerbing Heated Gloves.
2 winters with them now and they are great at keeping your hands warm.
https://www.thevisorshop.com/en/gb/Gerbing-XRS-12-Heated-Gloves/m-22775.aspx?PartnerID=21&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=UnitedKingdom&gclid=CjwKCAjw1KLkBRBZEiwARzyE70jIxix8mJjrBmd5zAjlMJnCiLOuzj0L9-tj8bXD5KKxxp1ZIrAIIxoCl5wQAvD_BwEPosted 1 year ago
Cheap option is to get a cheap waterproof jacket from Decathlon and wear it over your current jacket. Makes a huge difference, and costs less than 15gbp.
Spend the money saved on decent gloves, although if you can put up with the fashion faux pas the best solution are bar muffs 🙂Posted 1 year ago
Heated grips are exceptionally useful for the job if you can get along with them being a big fat.
Jacket, i prefer fitted over flappy, especially in wind etc.Posted 1 year ago
Layering is the key. Base and Mid Layers. I feel the cold too, but decent layers have sorted me out.
And heated grips. Helped me hugely through this winter.
Also take a look at this:
A load of the folk in my IAM group swear by these for staying toasty.Posted 1 year ago
Do Goretex jackets really help with warmth (cutting out wind?) Vs brand’s own waterproof layers?
Cutting wind draughts down is down to reducing draughts through clothing (gloves/sleeves etc) and a good screen/fairing on your bike. Outdoor clothing is good too, a long sleeve merino base, fleece mid layer then jacket with lining has kept me warm at -7 deg C more than once
Textile better than leather?
Yes. I’ve not worn leather for 10 years or more. Every time it rains you have to stop and put waterproofs on. Pointless for the all year round rider
Recommendations –Posted 1 year ago
Mrs PP had some Spada kit I bought for her. the trousers were crap and leaked like a sieve and were replaced, now the jacket leaks too after about 4 years…. I wouldn’t buy Spada again
I’ve had some Dianese kit that I cannot kill. Jacket and trousers were about £550 if I recall correctly about 10 years ago. It must have done 100,000 miles or more and it’s never ever let one single drop of water in, even after a 40mph crash. And I’ve ridden in rain that feels like my legs were being jet washed! It’s so good I found a nicer Dianese jacket used on eBay which is warmer, looks nicer (ADV style for the Africa Twin #vanity 😉 ). That should have been about £450 new, I got it for about £140 and washed it. The old one is still waterproof but is looking tatty these days
I still have my original trousers from 10+ years ago and they still zip straight into the new jacket (Mrs PPs replcement Spada trousers had a different zip after one year and we had to get them modified. Like I said, crap)
Gloves – Spada Enforcer are the best winter gloves I’ve ever had. A bit bulky but tough and warm. I got 40,000 miles or so out of a pair before the fingers wore through> I’ve also got some really nice Rukka gloves, Spring/autumn type. £140 but tough…
Boots – Don’t skimp. There’s only a couple of choices really and about 15 years or more ago I lashed out on some Daytona Road Star GTX. They were double the price of anything else Id had before…. But they lasted 12+ years. Warm, as comfy as your slippers and not sweaty in the heat because they’re actual leather not the fake stuff. They’d gone up by £100 in the time I had mine. I didn’t hesitate to replace them with exactly the same boots again.
Layering – I’m a big fan of this and try to do it effectively! I do put a waterproof outer over my kit, but would like to avoid this (flappy, noisy). Though that windproof inner layer looks interesting.
Heated grips – got them and they make a really good difference.
PP – very helpful, thanks. Looking at a couple of Dianese jackets on ebay, Goretex textile. How does sizing come up in your experience?
And came across the Spada Enforcer gloves so nice to hear a real world recommendation.
And (maybe a daft qn!) e.g. if I look at 3 different textile jackets from the same brand, all e.g. Goretex, all with thermal liner, all similar looking in terms of design, weightiness but with differences seemingly to be in pockets/vents/tech detail. Can I assume they’re generally all roughly as warm as each other?
Thanks again!Posted 1 year ago
Cheap option is to get a cheap waterproof jacket from Decathlon and wear it over your current jacket. Makes a huge difference, and costs less than 15gbp.
I know what you’re saying but it just doesn’t pay in the end. I tried it. You don’t need to by a £1000+ Rukka jacket, but if you ride all year round or do a lot of miles the value of good kit is in the longevity. I’m probably riding round in about £1200-1300 worth of kit (jacket, trousers, lid, boots, gloves) which isn’t cheap but nor is it silly and I’m careful about what I pay (sales, eBay etc) to get what I want/need at a reasonable price 🙂Posted 1 year ago
Looking at a couple of Dianese jackets on ebay, Goretex textile. How does sizing come up in your experience?
Sizing is European – Both mine are labelled Euro 56. I’m about a UK large….
Go try some on, they’re no good if they’re too baggy (Draughty!)
Though that windproof inner layer looks interesting.
I’ve never needed one, can’t see what it would do! Like I said base layer merino, nice fitted fleece (No hood, too bulky) then jacket over the top is all I’ve ever needed
Just to expand on the Goretex/own brand thing, my older jacket is Dianese D-dry membrane, not branded goretex. Totally water and windproof. The newer one is branded Goretex. It does exactly the same jobPosted 1 year ago
Jacket; I use oxford Montreal, very good with removable linings combined with matching trousers to zip onto the jacket stops the draughts. I’ve had rukka kit in the past and rate the Oxford kit. In the depths of winter I’ve also used a uniqlo gilet underneath as well as thermal base layers. I use a silk balaclava in winter which makes a surprisingly big difference, buffs also help. Colleagues who Bike for work rate heated waistcoats. Using heated grips and dainesse winter gloves but they aren’t as good as my old hein geeicke lobster glovesPosted 1 year ago
I use heated grips with a set of off-road handguards. Makes a surprising difference. Take a look at the options available from Bark Busters.
Never used them but I know people who swear by bar muffs (snigger).Posted 1 year ago
I stopped riding motorbikes a few years back. I do have some lovely Rukka kit depending on size and location of you’re interested.
Keep meaning to put it in eBay or something.Posted 1 year ago
Never used them but I know people who swear by bar muffs (snigger).
Muffs + heated grips! All you need is lightweight gloves with those, that’s the HOLY GRAIL of warm hands. 🙂
But yeah, MX hand guards and heated grips + winter gloves is nearly as good
Also, if the Rukka deal up there ^^^ works then I’d rip his arm off for it! 🙂Posted 1 year ago
Fabrics with z-liners are really, really cold. The outer layer gets soaked, the z-liner keeps you dry, but the outer is constantly evaporating away. I cannot understand why motorbike kit is constructed in this way (well I can, it’s cost cutting). Mogrim’s suggestion is spot on. A waterproof outer layer, the textile abrasion layer and then some warm stuff is the way to go. That, or textiles with bonded waterproof layers, but you’re talking £££.
Heated grips are ace. I use the symtec ones from winding roads – allow me to to keep a factory feel to the bike. Handguards are good, but beware that some can introduce odd handling at speed.
In terms of layering – a long merino base layer is my preference which gets tucked deeply into my trousers to keep my kidneys warm, then a LS cotton t-shirt, then either the jacket’s winter liner, or a softshell. I’ve an old Howies one that has Mao collar which is excellent for retaining the jacket’s waterproof seal.
I always use merino or cotton next to my skin. When I do come off I’ve no wish to have plastic fibres burnt onto my body. That said, Buffs are awesome at shutting down drafts around your neck.Posted 1 year ago
I’m selling my Hein Gericke 3 in one jacket. It’s a softshell water proof and an abrasion layer. Armoured in the shoulders and elbows.
They can all be worn separately which makes it pretty versatile.
In excellent condition. Properly warm too. £55 posted.
Posted 1 year ago
I know what you’re saying but it just doesn’t pay in the end.
It does, I used them for the past 10 years throughout winter – the cheap outer jacket would last at least a couple of years before needing replacing. Don’t forget it also keeps all the shit off the decent proper bike jacket you’re wearing underneath, so that lasts longer too.Posted 1 year ago
OK, whatever. 🙂Posted 1 year ago
I just buy a decent jacket that doesn’t need anything over the top and lasts 10 years/100,000 miles.
Personally, I use leather jacket and textile trousers. Then waterproof jacket over the top if it’s bad. I don’t ride that much anymore but used to commute all through the year.
My Altberg boots are ace, still have never leaked.
Gloves have a hole where you hand goes in so protect for that.
It major rain I expect to get wet after a few hours, but I’m rarely cold
I find too many layers feels restrictive, I like to wear an insulated gilet
For the depth of winter I have heated gilet and gloves, but I’ve had my fireblade for over 5 years now and have never wired them in. Mind you, I don’t ride it anywhere near as much as before and I don’t commute on itPosted 1 year ago
Onzadog and Merak, PM’dPosted 1 year ago
Gloves – Spada Enforcer are the best winter gloves I’ve ever had. A bit bulky but tough and warm.
Got a pair of these too, and though not done 40k in mine, can echo PP’s thoughts. They are bulky, and quite stiff, which can be offputting at first, but persevere cos as they break in (takes time) they loosen up nicely. They are warm too, when I just got them last Jan, did a trip back from Exeter to Worcester on the M5 on a bike I’d just bought, no heated grips, no hand guards etc. I was “cruising at the speed of the traffic” (a polite way of saying everyone was speeding a little I think) and the tips of my fingers only just started to get a little cold as I peeled off at Cheltenham for fuel, some 120 miles and 1hr45 after I started. That was in freezing ambient temps too! With heated grips, I’ve not needed to run them (I use Oxford Hotgrips) above 50% with the Enforcers… Even better as mine were £50 in the sale when I got them, though I see they’re back up to £70 everywhere now. Oh, and the visor wiper on the left thumb is sheer genius! Saved my bacon a number of times riding in wet conditions when you’re not going fast enough for the wind blast to just blow the rain off your visor.
I know what you’re saying but it just doesn’t pay in the end. I tried it. You don’t need to by a £1000+ Rukka jacket, but if you ride all year round or do a lot of miles the value of good kit is in the longevity. I’m probably riding round in about £1200-1300 worth of kit (jacket, trousers, lid, boots, gloves) which isn’t cheap but nor is it silly and I’m careful about what I pay (sales, eBay etc) to get what I want/need at a reasonable price 🙂
Would again agree with PP. I do a good few miles, but I do back off a bit through the winter, I don’t do as many as he does, but good kit pays dividends! I’m a recent convert to the benefits of decent textile kit (at least in the UK for 6-8 months of the year), I do prefer wearing leathers but will only don leather now if I KNOW it isn’t going to rain.
As for the value of the kit… Christ! Thank god for ebay, end of season sales etc… My Shoei would have been £500 (and just about to replace it with another the same), my 1pc leathers would have been £1300, my 2pc leathers would have been £700, my textile suit would have been £400 (relatively cheap Alpinestars “Drystar” kit, but it’s pretty good to be fair!), My Kevlar jeans £200 (apiece, got 2 pairs of them), my winter boots £300, my summer boots £270, my summer “shorty” boots (for wearing with jeans) £160, I’ve got £350 worth of gloves between 4 pairs etc. My point…? Same with cycling I guess, I REALLY hate letting my equipment and my clothing be a limiting factor to my enjoyment, so wherever possible (I’m not made of money, those £1300 1pc leathers I paid a faintly ridiculous £150 for!) I don’t let it.Posted 1 year ago
I used a “warm and safe” heated jacket and gloves.
I have to remind myself sometimes its not a summers day and my tyres might not be as warm as me 🙂
Heated clothing is the way forward, especially if you are doing long stints where the cold really has time to work its way into you.
I use a Klim Apex jacket and Klim Badlands trousers, works well for me.
#Posted 1 year ago
I just noted your, “I don’t want to go heated” Just do it you won’t regret it, I go out with mates and they are pleading for a coffee stop and I am toasty.Posted 1 year ago
Warm clothing on a motorcycle is semi-useless unless you also insulate and windproof your neck. Years ago, when I was a motorcycle journo, I spent some time with a Cambridge academic called Roderick Woods who’d done a research project into motorcyclists and body temperature – think thermometers in unfortunate places.
Two problems with motorcycling in cold conditions. One is that you don’t generate much heat as you’re essentially just sitting there. The second is that there’s a constant stream of warm blood to keep your brain functioning. It passes through your neck and if you don’t insulate and windproof that area, no matter how warm the rest of your clothing, you will lose heat until your core temperature drops to potentially dangerous levels.
A big fairing with barn-door screen will help, by minimising wind chill, but the neck will still be the area of greatest heat loss. His solution was a sort of thick pile-lined, windproof neck gaiter. I made something similar for myself and it made a massive difference.
The other thing he pointed out is that heated clothing essentially works by pre-heating your insulated clothing – normally your body heat would do this, insulation being basically trapped warmed air protected by a windproof barrier. It doesn’t directly warm your body because the levels of heat necessary to do that would actually make you nauseous.
Sorry if all that’s considered blindingly obvious these days, but back when I was a motorcyclist, it wasn’t particularly well understood.Posted 1 year ago
I’ve been commuting 70 mile/day through rain, wind and snow (well, frost) since August last year. Main gear is some Oxford thermal “waterproof” trousers, Weisse Bora thermal jacket and Weisse waterproof gloves. This has all been added to as I’ve found its not quite adequate on the coldest, wettest days.
I wear a pair of thermal underwear trousers, silk inner gloves and I have a USB-heated waistcoat. This I got from Amazon for under £30. When it’s properly raining, Oxford waterproof overtrousers & jacket. I also bought a couple of pairs of Arctic explorer socks from somewhere in Canada, about £30 for the pair and good for -40°C. The other thing that’s made a big difference is handlebar windguards to stop the windchill at speed. All in the clothing was about £150 on top of my original kit and the handguards about £70 but I’m good for all weathers now.Posted 1 year ago
I’ve got some Gerbing heated gloves – I’ve stopped using them because they burn my knuckles after an hour or so! Must be my old, thin skin. My previous bike (Triumph Tiger) had hand guards and with the heated grips, were pretty effective. My latest one has heated grips but no guards (BMW F800R), noticeably colder. My 7 year old Alpinestars Goretex jacket is still waterproof and warm, it’s that soft (Dobby?) material which gets waterlogged and takes a while to dry, but it has a very effective thermal liner. My textile trousers are Alpinestars too, but a cheaper ‘Drystar’ type. However, the have built in braces and sit very high (a la Simon Cowell) and I think that helps.Posted 1 year ago
I prefer wearing my leather jacket and kevlar jeans, but only when the temperature is above 15C or so ….
As for the value of the kit… Christ! Thank god for ebay, end of season sales etc… My Shoei would have been £500 (and just about to replace it with another the same), my 1pc leathers would have been £1300, my 2pc leathers would have been £700, my textile suit would have been £400 (relatively cheap Alpinestars “Drystar” kit, but it’s pretty good to be fair!), My Kevlar jeans £200 (apiece, got 2 pairs of them), my winter boots £300, my summer boots £270, my summer “shorty” boots (for wearing with jeans) £160, I’ve got £350 worth of gloves between 4 pairs etc. My point…? Same with cycling I guess, I REALLY hate letting my equipment and my clothing be a limiting factor to my enjoyment, so wherever possible (I’m not made of money, those £1300 1pc leathers I paid a faintly ridiculous £150 for!) I don’t let it.
Oh yeah, indeed….!
The price is half the reason I’ve not owned leathers for at least 12 years. I just cannot afford two sets of kit! Textiles are far more practical in any weather too – vents, removable linings, no need to carry separate waterproofs
I’ve got one good set of kit, and an old Frank Thomas jacket thats good in the summer. One pair of boots (The Daytonas cover everything) One helmet (Shoei GT Air, £295 in a sale in November last year) and three pairs of gloves (vented summer, thinnish waterproof and winter)
I always keep my last lid in the loft just in case, but I got 7 years out of the last one!
I don’t do the mileage I used to since moving to Sheffield (Cycle to work now) and we swapped out bikes (my NC700x Mrs PPs MT07) for one to share – CRF1000l Africa Twin. We don’t use that much but it’s rare I turn the key and do under 100 miles. A couple of weeks ago I did 588 miles in a day, as training for this –
Looking at the latest Moto Legends catalogue I see they are offering interest free on kit. 12 months on regular stuff, 24 on rukka and 36 on stadler.Posted 1 year ago
Ive just bought an Oxford Mondial advanced jacket.
Laminated and looks & feels really lightweight, but Im stunned at how warm & comfortable I was in it. £250! Highly recommended. Bargain.Posted 1 year ago
If you’re looking for warm gloves then I’ve got a pair of the Gerbing XR12 gloves for sale if you’re interested?Posted 1 year ago
Bonzodog, sounds goodPosted 1 year ago
I’m quite new to biking so can’t offer much to this thread but …….
I do feel the cold a lot when I am out on my bike, being just 73kg probably doesn’t help. So when I saw people were recommending a Pertex layer I thought I would give it a try today so I found my old Montane Featherlight. I spent two hours on the bike wearing a Helly Henson base layer, the Montane on top of that then my Dianese leather jacket as the outer layer. Wow, what a difference that vertex made. Toasty warm after two hours, I have never been able to say that before.Posted 1 year ago
The Missenden Flyer seems to rate the Mondial gear tooPosted 1 year ago
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