Viewing 38 posts - 1 through 38 (of 38 total)
  • Moon on a stick bike requirements
  • adjustablewench
    Free Member

    So new neck dictates a re-evaluation of my riding position and therefore alterations to existing or a new bike.

    Apparently rough stuff is out of the question, but I think gravel and decent trails with a bit of suspension may not really be that bad (haven’t run that past anyone but I think it will be worth a try?!)

    I currently have a stooge but had found it a little harsh on my neck pre op, can I put suspension (lauf?!) Forks on it without completely messing up the geometry?

    Or would it be better to get something completely different? Although I’m not sure what

    Ideally allowing me to be very upright, have a but of suspension and no drop bars.

    And preferably look nice – just don’t fancy a Dutch bike style thing – or a chuffing girly pashley job with a basket

    Sorry for the ranty ramble – it’s all a bit much to cope with at times . . . I love the bikes I have and it’s awful to consider getting rid of them :((

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Have a look at the range of hybrids from Cube. Lots of those with short travel forks. Those touring/butterfly bars would give you a range of hand positions, some more upright. I see lots of “touring” bikes every year, mostly belonging to folk doing LEJOG or JOGLE and many folk have much more upright riding positions. It doesn’t seem to hold them back much.

    fasthaggis
    Full Member

    Have a chat with a frame builder (or builders) and find out what options would work best for you.
    Good luck.

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    I feel myself drawn to the new fargo

    It looks higher than most at the head tube

    scud
    Free Member

    I have a Mk1 Fargo and a neck problem also (cracked two vertebra in a collapsed scrum), easy bikes to ride, and drop bars mean you can have a variety of hand positions, you normally set up the bottom of the drop to same height as you’s have a flat MTB bar, so when you bring your hands up to tops of the bar, you are actually more upright.

    thepodge
    Free Member

    Didn’t Tazz put normal suspension forks on a stooge and love it?

    ton
    Full Member

    Thorn road and offroad tourers come with a very long steerer, and can be bought with various length top tubes.
    fitted with a shorter stem and some risers, you should find a fit from them.

    http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/

    something like the RAVEN model fitted with suspension forks and seatpost would be perfect.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Plenty of funky bars available that will raise your position a lot and shorten the reach. I’d experiment with those first.

    perchypanther
    Free Member

    something completely different?

    Ideally allowing me to be very upright

    no drop bars.

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    The thought had crossed my mind when they said I could go back on my turbo as long as I didn’t touch the bars

    cokie
    Full Member

    I’d stick with the Stoge, but make a few changes;
    – Fit Stooge Moto bars- high rise and large backsweep
    – Fit a 100-120mm fork with 1 1/8 steerer
    – Fit some fatter tyres tubeless and run at lower pressure

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    I have dropped Andy at stooge and email to ask for his suggestions already. He has given me a few ideas – and I will do this if I can as it’s a lovely bike.

    I run either 29 on it or 650b+ already both tubeless. I think I have some forks in a cupboard somewhere but not sure there’s enough steerer on them . . . Will dig them out.

    Andy did suggest Jones bars too.

    Have a few months to play with so looks like I will be buying and selling bike parts a lot until the spring

    molgrips
    Free Member

    I reckon this would ride nicely despite appearances.

    I had somethign slightly less extreme on my Dew hybrid and I loved riding it.

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    Yes something like that would be good. I have a pair of on one carbon OG bars that I may try too. They. Are currently on my scandal, they have a bit more sweep that the salsa ones I have on the stooge, but I think i would definitely go down the carbon route as it does seem to help smooth things out a bit

    yourguitarhero
    Free Member

    Was going to suggest the carbon OG bars. I bought them by accident (didn’t look at all the pics and didn’t realise the backsweep) but I really like them. Do give you a more upright/relaxed riding position – which kind of suits my slow-ish but smooth way of riding

    ampthill
    Full Member

    If it all gets really bad then look at a recumbent

    If it is not that bad may be go FS, even on gentle stuff. I’m think an old Anthem frame but with 700c gravel tyres. Choose a small frame for less reach. Use a long post and get the bars up with some or all of these

    long steerer

    extender

    pointy up stem

    high rise bars

    tjagain
    Full Member

    Euro style tourers need not be granny bikes. We met a couple in the hebridies with some really nice top end eurotourers. Son dynamo hub, Rohloffs, discs, 80mm forks ( but proper ones) and a nice upright riding position. Can’t remeber the make now.

    Chew
    Free Member

    Your Stooge already has a high front end similar to the Fargo.

    I’ve got some Moto bars and Jones that you can borrow for an afternoon to have a play with.

    Just measured:
    Motos are 85mm from center to back of bars
    Jones are 130mm from center to back of bars
    OGs are 95mm from center to back of bars
    (If that makes sense….)

    Suppose it depends how long your steerer is, but plenty of spacers, short stem and some Jones will move your position back a lot.

    Or we’ll make you something like this 8)

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    Ha ha . . .the more I see that picture the more I want one. May not work so well in Sheffield though.

    Have been in touch with Andy re tweaking the stooge. I have plenty of time as I’m not allowed on any bike atm. And if it snows I’m not even leaving the house until my head is stuck back on properly 😉

    (Re the fargo it just apoersto be a bit shorter in the top tube- which made me think it might be a bike easier to be more upright)

    kaiser
    Free Member

    here’s my surly ogre home built for comfort and versatility. Do anything bike soon to have a speedhub fitted for minimal maintenance . I like an upright position too ..took me ages to find a good compromise. very happy with it even if a little heavy .

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    Your neck will have a much easier time on a full-sus when you’re riding seated. A short travel 29er with a fairly upright position seems a good idea, so set it up with a very short stem and high rise bars. Tons to choose from if you’re tall enough to fit a Stooge (quite a lot don’t come in a small). And even something burly like a Banshee Phantom won’t be much heavier than a steel rigid like the Stooge.

    And still nice looking:

    Good luck!

    Stevet1
    Free Member

    Or would it be better to get something completely different? Although I’m not sure what

    Ideally allowing me to be very upright, have a but of suspension and no drop bars.

    If you’ve got time for a google, and an open mind then search for Cleland cycles and Geoff Apps. His bike philosophy(!) is based on having very little weight through the hands and an upright position allowing for excellent climbing ability and slow speed manouevrability. I think you’d call his bikes functional rather than conventionally aesthetically pleasing.
    You can probably message him on retrobike if you’ve any specific questions.

    kaiser
    Free Member

    I’ve read about Cleland cycles but apart from weight on the back wheel i don’t see how they can climb well. Upright positions are in my experience very hard work when climbing anything but gentle gradients. It’s all about compromise and i’ve got that dialled in on the Ogre.

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    I can’t see the picture kaiser

    Stevet1
    Free Member

    I’ve read about Cleland cycles but apart from weight on the back wheel i don’t see how they can climb well. Upright positions are in my experience very hard work when climbing anything but gentle gradients

    They’re a different approach to be sure, but the result is by all accounts a bike which an is excellent technical climber and descender.

    deejayen
    Free Member

    One problem with the Cleland bikes is that (last time I looked) you couldn’t buy them.

    Stevet1
    Free Member

    One problem with the Cleland bikes is that (last time I looked) you couldn’t buy them.

    Yes I think that the last attempt failed to generate enough interest. Still it was the ideas and principals behind the design that resulted in a bike with a heavy rear wheel bias and very little weight through the front that I thought might help the OP in their bike setup.

    tjagain
    Full Member

    This was one incarnation of my commuter when I had some back issues. yes its utterly hideous – deliberately so to reduce its desirability to theives but you can modify riding positions on your bike easily and fairly radically. short high rise stem and mary bars reduces reach, puts your hands in amore neutral position which takes load off your upper back, very comfy to ride. Needs eye bleach

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/cCrWjb]IMG_3470[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr

    kaiser
    Free Member

    I can’t see the picture kaiser

    i’ll try again

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    This is my stooge as it is at the moment (well not exactly as it’s locked up out of sight so I don’t get tempted to either cry or ride it!)

    Comparing it to the ones above it looks quite upright already – so a few tweaks and I could make it even more so

    JoeG
    Free Member

    😉

    greatbeardedone
    Free Member

    I’d have a look at handlebars from beach-cruiser brands like ‘electra’.

    You’ll probly need longer brake/gear lines.

    As you’re not venturing into properly knarly terrain, you should consider buying a stem with an adjustable angle to fine-tune your position.

    deejayen
    Free Member

    What about a Moulton TSR? I think the models with V-brakes should allow wide 20″ tyres to be fitted, and those models come with straight bars. There’s the TSR-2, TSR-9 and TSR-27. Shod with suitable tyres, they might be fine on gravel and gentle trails. As a bonus, they’re available with seperable frames.

    papercutout
    Free Member

    I’d go with something like a Cleland – if you message him, I’m sure he’ll do his best to hook you up.

    Otherwise, if you still want a traditional bike, then something like the bars above, or On One Mary’s will do it. I’ve got a set in the shed I’d happily unload cheaply if you’re interested.

    tjagain
    Full Member

    If we all dig thru our spares boxes I bet we could come up with enough funny bars and stems to get any riding position you want. Want a hight adjustable stem?

    jonestown
    Free Member

    @adjustable wrench, from looking at your photo my guess is that a 50mm stem and a set of Jones bars, either loop or bend, set at the right angle will be the absolute best bet for you.

    Lawmanmx
    Free Member

    Jones bars caused me shoulder and neck probs, Stooge moto bars sorted it 🙂

    Wenchie, try a riser stem and stooge bars n a thudbuster seatopst before you get shut of yer Stooge OR buy something else, i got a 30mm rise Ritchey stem and the Stooge bars and its made a huge difference to my comfort, i’ll sort a pic and bounce it over to yer farcebook 😉

    adjustablewench
    Free Member

    I will have a look – i already have a 50mm stem so thought about maybe finding a 50mm 25° stem to get a bit more upright.

    But Jones are definitely on my ‘to try’ list

    Thanks, A’Wench (like a wrench but more fun 😉 )

Viewing 38 posts - 1 through 38 (of 38 total)

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