Hi all, just a quick one for those with one, does the head/bb and disc tabs come factory faced or should i factor in a trip to the lbs.

Cheers

They are tapped and faced prior to painting, masked for painting, but not post-paint machined.

Disc mounts, certainly, don't need facing in my experience. Some people are happier with the BB cleaned up a bit. I've never bothered.

Modern "post-mount adapted" brakes are far more tolerant to any disc mount alignment than old "fit with shims" disc brakes (how did we ever put up with them??)

cheers, see what it looks like when it turns up, bloody bank holiday post 🙁
If not, beer and biscuits for the mechanic 🙂

brant are you really questioning is mounts? Everyone know they are vastly superior in engineering terms.

my disc tabs had paint all over them so i'd factor in a trip to the lbs to be on the safe side.

I found the BB thread a little stiff the first time, but nay problem.

Mine was faced. The BB had a sharp edge on the thread which caused the cup(external) not to butt up to the shell but easily sorted.

Tbh, I've never bothered getting shells faced. I'm pretty sure the manufacturing process of the shell includes a quick face up and we're all capable of removing any residual paint, I'm sure 😉

Everyone know they are vastly superior in engineering terms.

..and vastly inferior in 'setting up' terms, if you can call a couple of bolts and a bracket vastly superior engineering in any shape or form!

all properly faced but one side of the BB had to be chased

i found the BB thread a little stiff the first time, but nay problem.

lucky you i just f£$ked a new bb drive side was fine, 3/4 of the other side was fine the last 1/4 got a bit tight then tried to take it off,now in the bucket now off to the lbs to get the threads chased out of the bb shell

will just take it in and get it checked/done, no bother really, curiosity more than anything…the more inportant question is whether to start a fresh build or butcher the other bike, new 1.5 forks or not, hhmm decisions…

brant are you really questioning is mounts? Everyone know they are vastly superior in engineering terms.

No – I'm questioning the logic of early disc brake calipers that used 0.1mm shims to acheive pad/disc alignment.
That was rubbish.
I'm a big fan of (as I said) "post-mount adapted" brakes – ie: post mount caliper with an IS bracket, as it were…

my disc tabs had paint all over them so i'd factor in a trip to the lbs to be on the safe side.

They're *usually* masked before painting. So sorry about that.

I'm pretty sure the manufacturing process of the shell includes a quick face up and we're all capable of removing any residual paint, I'm sure

Actually, aluminium frames (not steel ones) are welded up with an unthreaded BB. The threads for the BB are then put in by machine, usually (I think) after heat treating (but before paint).

i built up both my mm bop and pig without facing.
they buit up no problem at all.

Actually, aluminium frames (not steel ones) are welded up with an unthreaded BB. The threads for the BB are then put in by machine, usually (I think) after heat treating (but before paint).[/quote]

i guess i was unlucky with my bb shell? i am asuming it will be ok to get the the threads cleand up a lbs

i guess i was unlucky with my bb shell? i am asuming it will be ok to get the the threads cleand up a lbs

Sure – sorry about that – If I meet you, you can kick me up the arse, or I'll buy you a pint as an apology.

polishing my size 10s as i speak 😉

I just ran a sharp screw through the threads inside the BB. The cups went in fine after that.

as an update, got frame today, unfortunately seatpost and bb failed to show 🙁
Now the shells look fine no overspray or anything and the bb thread look/feels clean, so all good, but for peace of mind, was thinking of getting some very fine sandpaper and sanding block and give it a quick go over to make sure, any one feel this is a bad idea which will only end in my un-timely demise!

Cheers

I reckon you're likely to get more crap and dust in the threads doing that.