We have a Mira platinum digital shower that appears to have broken. It was working fine Sunday afternoon but then Monday morning it was immediately down on pressure and a minute into the shower slowed even more to an absolute trickle. I have tried all the fault finding steps suggested (flow rate setting, blocked hose or head, power cycled) apart from checking the inlet filters. Not checked filters yet as full hot or full cold is the same behaviour and if one had suddenly blocked I’d expect some variation in flow as you altered temperature. Water supply is fine as the other showers, taps and bath all work as normal.

The way it suddenly stopped makes me think it’s a component failure. Does anyone have any experience fault finding or repairing these showers? I know I can pay Mira to service/repair it (£260!). Looking to see if I can resolve it without having someone out.

Posted 3 weeks ago

Blocked cold filter would cause it to shut down on both sides as it is thermostatic.

Posted 3 weeks ago

Hadn’t thought of that. I’ll be having those of then before booking any service call. Looks quite easy on the control unit design.

Posted 3 weeks ago

Some electric showers just cant heat the water fast enough and stop.
If the cold supply is too cold.

Posted 3 weeks ago

Is it the one with the remote chrome dial & display with a digital mixer unit elsewhere?

Posted 3 weeks ago

Also consider an air lock in the inlet supplies if it is a gravity version. Actually is it the pumped version or the high pressure version?

Posted 3 weeks ago

They have a pretty long warranty on them. Mine went wrong, I think it was 3-4 years old. Engineer came round and swapped it for a new one. (Said the circuitry was better in the new ones.)

also – https://www.mirashowers.co.uk/support/fault-diagnosis/

Posted 3 weeks ago

When ours does that it’s a little diaphragm in the inlet valve that has a hole in which let’s the pressure equalise across the inlet, (supposed to be water pressure one side if it, atmospheric the other).

That’s a Gainsborough, it goes about every 3 years and the * (insert expliteve of choice) told me there’s no users serviceable parts, you have to buy a whole new engine at about £65 quid. Although a different make, wouldn’t be surprised if yours works a similar way, hopefully you can get parts and not just a wholesale replacement.

Posted 3 weeks ago

Some electric showers

Digital not electric, if it read electric if just be trooping it out as I hate them.

Is it the one with the remote chrome dial & display with a digital mixer unit elsewhere?

Yeap that’s the one.

Actually is it the pumped version or the high pressure version?

Combi fed so high pressure.

They have a pretty long warranty on them.

Not sure how old it is as we have only had the house a year. There is what might be a date on the mixer that suggests 2012 however that seems a long time ago. I’ve been through the steps on that link (other than inlets which is next).

Posted 3 weeks ago

watching with interest, fitted one of these a few months back as we had all manor of problems with a standard thermostatic valve (combi boiler is about a mile away at the other end of the house), so far its been ace.

Posted 3 weeks ago

Likewise this one has been great in the time we have been here until this issue. If it’s completely dead I’ll not have any qualms about replacing like for like.

Posted 3 weeks ago

If it is as old as you think, then I wouldn’t bother with repair at £260, be better to put that towards the cost of a new unit.

Posted 3 weeks ago

nixie

Is it the one with the remote chrome dial & display with a digital mixer unit elsewhere?

Yeap that’s the one.

Had one installed in 2010 and it went exactly like you said after 2 years replaced FOC under warranty, second one lasted another 2 years again replaced FOC only this time *Alan* the engineer informed me the control board had been updated to stop the fault. Its worked fine now for 7 years.

* I still have his mobile number saved on my mobile as “Alan Showerman” 😀

Posted 3 weeks ago

Digital not electric,

Ah, sorry. You can probably ignore my suggestion too.

Posted 3 weeks ago

If it is as old as you think, then I wouldn’t bother with repair at £260, be better to put that towards the cost of a new unit.

I found the instructions over lunch and they are dated as published in 2011. If checking the input fails then I may call them. Could be that on an older unit their ‘repair’ is in effect a replacement anyway :D. BUt yes I get your point, much as I hate throwing stuff away when it can be repaired at nearly 10 years old its an expensive risk.

Ah, sorry. You can probably ignore my suggestion too.

I did read it and search the diagrams for reference to a diaphragm. Suggestions still appreciated.

this time *Alan* the engineer informed me the control board had been updated to stop the fault

That is interesting. If I’m right about the age then would suggest the older design.

Posted 3 weeks ago

On ours whenever it goes wrong it’s the inlet filters. They seem to need fettling about once a year, only takes a few minutes (as long as they installed the service valves!). There never seems to be anything in the filters but I think there’s some sort of reverse flow prevention device associated with them that may get stuck.

Posted 3 weeks ago

@Rio, assuming the isolation valves are off and the shower drained do you get much water coming out when you remove them? What fettling do you do other than rinse out?

Posted 3 weeks ago

Hardly any water comes out, a towel will easily absorb it. I just pull out the little mesh filters and make sure there’s nothing in them, then poke my finger in to make sure the valve thing is free. You can take the whole cartridge out to check it but I don’t usually bother. Then put it back together making sure the O ring seals are in the right place. Exploded diagrams are on the Mira site somewhere. Ours is pumped, you didn’t say whether yours is but I expect they’re all the same.

Posted 3 weeks ago

Thanks. Ours isn’t pumped but the inlet bits look the same. Will have a go later on.

Posted 3 weeks ago

In case anyone cares cleaning the inlets did nothing. At £430 for a new unit with 5 year warranty (which also means a new head since ours was cracked) Vs £260 service cost I have replaced the lot. There are some obvious improvements in the design of the new one. As a bonus we now have two controllers which works better in the bathroom. Swapping the new unit in was really easy.

Posted 1 week ago

Slightly off topic…. but where have you replaced it for £430?!

It’s what I’m after for mine but I can’t find one anywhere near that price! 🤣

Posted 1 week ago

Also have the same shower (bought with 2 controllers – as not getting blasted by cold water as you turn it on was the reason for getting a digital shower).

Went through the same experience with 2 boards failing and being replaced FOC early on and still on the third one a long time later. I have always expected it to fail at the not inconvenient moment, so thanks for doing the research.

Is it going to be a straight swap or is any re-piping necessary ?

Thanks for the tips in the filters Rio, might check them when the weather is warmer.

The once new bathroom is needing some tlc now with new flush and fill valves and the sliding shower door glass has now unglued itself from the runners 🥺.

Posted 1 week ago

@nickdavies national shower spares, though now on a longer lead time https://www.showerspares.com/search/mira-platinum-biv-rear-fed-high-pressure-1666.200/

@binman straight swap. Water off, disconnect inlets. Unscrew from floor. Disconnect outlet. With towel under both times. Make sure all orings swapped (there are two on the outlet). Reattached outlet, screwed down. Reattached inlets. I did not use the new isolator values or short copper sections, not the screw on nuts (for want.ofna better description). Changing those would have been more effort than it was worth for identical parts.

Posted 3 days ago