Due to a change in my circumstances I’m going to have to sell my Type R to get a few grand funding behind me. So looking for a car around a grand and noticed RX8 are really, really cheap.

Always like the look of them and they get pretty much 5 star reviews. I know they’re thirsty on fuel but I use the train mostly so don’t really do that many miles.

Any reason I shouldn’t have a pop at one? Anyone any experience of them?

They’ve been cheap for years due to their high oil usage / thirst for fuel / perceived unreliability.

Think you have to be careful to find one hat has been religiously serviced and warmed up properly before being abused. Otherwise I think the rotors tips can wear badly and they burn a lot of oil.

They’re also light on torque so make sure you go for the 237 rather than the 190.

Other than the engine issues I understand they are a great car – sensibly laid out and well handling. I’ve had a test drive in one once and was fairly impressed. The engine needs a lot of revving to release the power but you’re probably used to that.

Final point – what is the car tax like on them – might be high?

The 190 is actually better on torque!

Find a good one, keep on top of coils, leads, and oil levels, and it’ll likely keep you right. Find a bad one and it’ll be scrap. There’s a lot of internet bollocks worn about them, most of it totally untrue, some not. The engines do have their inherent issues, but if you’re willing to take the gamble can be very rewarding.
The chassis is very, very good, there’s a good sized boot, and there’s decent space in the rear.
However, they’re a bit crap on fuel, expect high teens, but the bonus is it doesn’t really change with how you drive, so feel free to thrash them everywhere!
When you say you don’t do many miles, do you mean mostly short trips? Unfortunately the rotary really isn’t a fan of that, it needs to be warmed up properly every done really.

Shortish trips, about a 25 mile round commute to work on shifts and the days I can get train in much less than that, but I’ll try to cycle those days anyway.
Was worried about bike transport but I’ll just get a rack.
What signs are there to look out for in a good un? I was actually looking at the much more sensible Mazda 6 until I stumbled upon how cheap RX8s are!

Don’t do short runs in it as it stops the engine from starting…make sure it has warmed up properly, rev it a lot for any performance and keep all fluids topped up religiously.

You need to be looking at a specialist forum for the pros and cons, they are cheap for reasons! As has been said you could get a good one, but you could get an absolute dog.

Either way they can be very expensive and drive it wrong and you could kill it.

MX5 ?

Obvious signs of a duffer are misfires (they’re very smooth engines, if they don’t rev cleanly and smoothly to the limiter something’s not right) and poor warm starting.
Take it for a test drive, get the oil fully warmed up, turn it off, leave it a couple of minutes, then try to restart it.
Misfires can be the fault of coilpacks or leads, which are basically a service item.
Failure to restart is a sign of low compression. Walk.

Also look out for rust as they are hit badly by this.
Early ones are on the cheaper tax band, I think it’s around 55 plate they changed? After this is the silly priced band, and so the cars are generally even cheaper!

I nearly bought one a few years back but went for an E46 330ci – it’s been brilliant! I know they’re getting on a bit now but they’ve still got 230bhp, memory electric seats, navigation (that can be hacked to give speed camera alerts), auto lights/wipers and low 30s on average mpg (don’t really need to mention the handling but that’s a plus too).

Parts are cheap, it’s incredibly easy to work on and there’s loads of DIY guides out there.

I’ve posted before here a few tips, if you get an older one you need to be careful about the coil packs and you also need to be careful about the oil. You want the ones with 6 speed box really.

Also bear in mind if you get one newer than July 2006 the vehicle excise duty is insane.

A good e46 330i will be about 3 times as much though. Plus they aren’t fault free either – front lower wishbones are a regular service item, the whole cooling system will likely need attention over 120k or so, and heaven forbid if you get an auto.
Plus the rust, and the subframe risks…

This is brilliant advice as always.
To be honest I only need 12-18 months out of the car, seen one for £800 I really like.

If you’re willing to take the gamble it could be really rewarding. I’ve nearly bought one so many times, but I’ve got an rx7 skulking in the garage, I don’t have enough brave pills to ruin 2 rotaries.
As long as you go in with your eyes open, and prepared to cut your losses if it all goes pear shaped, it’ll be fine.

I wouldn’t use it for journeys less than 5 miles or so, that’s asking for trouble.

Oh, and the starter motor was uprated in later cars, but that’s kind of to mask the issues with them flooding after short journeys!

Cheap for a reason.

Yes, the reason is primarily scare stories.
They do have their foibles, but they’re not as bad as the internet says.
My wife’s e46 330i was, for instance, considerable more high maintenance and more expensive to look after than at least 3 rx8s I know the owners of.

But no matter, as long as the stories are abound, it means they’re cheaper and there’s more choice for the better informed 😀

submarined –
A good e46 330i will be about 3 times as much though. Plus they aren’t fault free either – front lower wishbones are a regular service item, the whole cooling system will likely need attention over 120k or so, and heaven forbid if you get an auto.
Plus the rust, and the subframe risks…

Sorry didn’t check the prices, I bought mine for 4.5k 5 years ago and assumed they’d be like 2k now.
Lollipop bushes last ages if you buy the right ones, cooling system is cheap as chips and easy to replace. Plus the air intake rubbers need replacing but again cheap. Rust was covered under bmw warranty – so as long as the previous owner (myself included) got it in at BMW before the warranty ran out it should be good for the remaining lifetime.

Mines also an auto – I’ve had the gearbox oil and gaskets changed a few years ago and it’s been fine?

I know it’s not fault free but I thought it was a genuine alternative to the RX8…

Yes, the reason is primarily scare stories.
They do have their foibles, but they’re not as bad as the internet says.
My wife’s e46 330i was, for instance, considerable more high maintenance and more expensive to look after than at least 3 rx8s I know the owners of.

But no matter, as long as the stories are abound, it means they’re cheaper and there’s more choice for the better informed

I’ve owned 2, so consider myself at least reasonably well informed on the ownership experience :lol:. How many have you owned :roll:? Post above clearly suggest none. So, you know of a couple of people that own them and have some second hand knowledge. Not much better than looking at views on the internet really, is it?

Great car, but cheap for a reason. Even if you know how to look after them, there is no guarantee the previous owners have. Good luck finding a good one!

Ours had the rust fixed twice under warranty, they refused it after that!
I’m sure i totted up the going system (pump, header tank, rad, hoses) to be nearly 500 in parts alone?
We had the box oil changed but the torque converter lock up did it’s thing on its. That was the final straw

Don’t get me wrong, great cars, and was overall pretty reliable, but my recurrence was they aren’t as bombproof as claimed.
Plus, trying to sell a black M Sport estate was no fun due to the potential clientele. So much ****wittety.

[snigger] Wankel [/snigger}

I’ve owned 2, so consider myself at least reasonably well informed on the ownership experience :lol:. How many have you owned :roll:? Post above clearly suggest none. So, you know of a couple of people that own them and have some second hand knowledge. Not much better than looking at views on the internet really, is it?

Great car, but cheap for a reason. Even if you know how to look after them, there is no guarantee the previous owners have. Good luck finding a good one!
I’ve owned precisely none, you’re correct.
However, I own an rx7 (which I’ve rebuilt from the ground up) and have been heavily involved in the rotary community for the past 10 years, so I’m more aware than most of some of the idiosyncrasies of the cars and their powerplants.
I’ve also worked on the ones my friends owned a fair bit.

I’m not saying they aren’t cheap for a reason, but I’m saying if you go in with your eyes open, you can really benefit from some of the misinformation.
No need to be a dick about it, huh?

How cheap is cheap?

The oldest must be 10-15 years old now aren’t they? 10-15 year old ‘cool’ cars tend to be going through their ‘scrap’ phase – too old to be flash, too new to be classic/collectible.

They might become the car we all wished we bought 10 years from now when the rough ones are all gone and that 20k mile ‘minter’ is going for 20k or something daft like that.

Realistically I don’t think they’re rare or special enough to appreciate.
Even when you compare the rx7 to it’s contemporaries like the R32GTR and Supra, the prices are crap in comparison due to rotary fear! And that was a far lower volume and more ‘special’ car.

rotary fear

Wanxiety?

If you’re wanting to save money avoid an RX8.

Had one when nearly new and got rid after only 3 months. Actually replaced it with a Type R which I loved and cost literally half as much to run.

I’ve had an rx7 for many years and tried an rx8 for just over a year. I got a 56 plate 36000 mile prodrive version. It was ok but the rust, it was like an ongoing battle especially the cills. Join an rx forum you will learn a lot and help you decide whether to spend the money or not.

perchypanther – Member
Wanxiety?

Nah, just frost on your moustache.

Ive got a RX8 R3, Its brilliant and costly…..

There are a lot of scare stories. For good reason. Cars these days just plod on without a lot of maintenance. An RX8 isnt one of them.

They are light on torque but mine is one of the best cars ive driven on the roads (can only compare to an elise, TF, Caterham etc) Its heavy but fun and practical. I use it as a daily driver for short journeys with a baby in the back. Its more practical than a focus but you need a saris rack for one. Its a pain carrying a bike as the pedals catch the boot unles your careful.

I get between 8 and 18 MPG! most ive had is 22 on a run to wales at 50 mph

The engines will fail at some point. Your lookng between 1500 and 3k for a drive in – out rebuild. The parts aint that cheap either. Hence why they stop working people wont touch them.

The main failing ios the coil packs. I run a set of D585-R coils. The standard coils are only good for 20k and not changed as a service item. This means the cat blocks and kills the engine.

Noisy startup, anything other than smooth running and a compression test are musts. If you cant get a compression test warm the engine up, switch it off for 10-15 mins and restart it. If it struggles walk away.

Apart from that and the sills rusting its fab. 🙂

They dont work in the wet or snow! Well they do but dont turn the traction control of (as the people waiting at the bus stop on bradford road last tuesday will attest to….. sorry about that 🙂 )

Any questions ask here
https://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/

Has anyone ever put a ‘normal’ engine in one?

@submarined 🙂

OP obvious point but check the VED and insurance

aye mine is 550 in tax a year!!!!

Has the tax banding not changed now? Or does that only apply to new cars?

An old proverb that has stood me well

“When skinto don’t run performance cars”

rotary fear

Wanxiety?

Danger wankel?

Thing is its not a performance car. its not that fast at all.

Its just mega fun and expensive.

What some people in the RX8 forum did was buy one with a good chassis and a wrecked engine for 500, then may 2500 for a full engine rebuild, so you then have an essentially new car for 3000.

What generally kills the engine is either the coils breaking down and causing misfire, or the oil injector clogging, which you can get around by using an ester based premix rather than having engine oil being injected into the chamber.

Has the tax banding not changed now? Or does that only apply to new cars?

It used to be that cars registered before July 2006 worked on one system >1600cc one price >1600cc another price, and cars newer than that taxed based on carbon emissions. Has the system changed? I’ve been out of the UK for a while 😛

I bought on recently for £2.5k with fresh engine rebuild and warranty. It’s a great car and somehow cheaper on Insurance than my diesel berlingo…

But it cost £560 tax and does 20mpg (but the engine is ported)

Look on the RX8-OC and there is a great buyers guide and lots of info.

So, I think we’ve all worked out why they’re so cheap… a highlight reel from owners and fans alike.

They’re:

Not fast
Lack torque
Drink like a Bentley.
Are a liability in the wet.
Rust like 70s Alfas.
the later ones cost £60 a month to tax.
And whilst the internet is full of horror stories you shouldn’t believe – they do in fact shit their engines fairly regularly.

How much to Nissan 350Zs cost these days?

“Normal” engines do fit in an RX8.

Google RX8 LS1 Conversion 😆

No need to be a dick about it, huh?

No, no need at all. But, if you don’t like being treated like one, don’t act like one in the first place:

But no matter, as long as the stories are abound, it means they’re cheaper and there’s more choice for the better informed

You can’t have it both ways 😛

There are a lot of scare stories. For good reason. Cars these days just plod on without a lot of maintenance. An RX8 isnt one of them.

They are light on torque but mine is one of the best cars ive driven on the roads (can only compare to an elise, TF, Caterham etc) Its heavy but fun and practical. I use it as a daily driver for short journeys with a baby in the back. Its more practical than a focus but you need a saris rack for one. Its a pain carrying a bike as the pedals catch the boot unles your careful.

I get between 8 and 18 MPG! most ive had is 22 on a run to wales at 50 mph

The engines will fail at some point. Your lookng between 1500 and 3k for a drive in – out rebuild. The parts aint that cheap either. Hence why they stop working people wont touch them.

The main failing ios the coil packs. I run a set of D585-R coils. The standard coils are only good for 20k and not changed as a service item. This means the cat blocks and kills the engine.

Noisy startup, anything other than smooth running and a compression test are musts. If you cant get a compression test warm the engine up, switch it off for 10-15 mins and restart it. If it struggles walk away.

Apart from that and the sills rusting its fab.

They dont work in the wet or snow!

Sounds just like your land rover ambulance Kenneth.