Am I really unlucky or are they a bit overrated and, Well, s**t

2 rides,2 punctures, DHF2 exo 3c Max terra

Not had a problem with specialized tyres for 18 months

These seem really fragile. Roughly the same pressure,22-25 psi

1x small hole just above the bead,

today cut in tyre sealant wouldn’t fill and a hole by the bead/rim that was small but again sealant wouldn’t fill..

Wasn’t a hard ride at all… what am I doing wrong?
(apart from believing marking rubbish)

It’s not you….. it’s the tyres. Had exactly the same on an EXO+ tyre recently and it went in the bin after 2 rides.

had maxxis dhr/dhf combo for at least 5 years… one puncture. riding in the Lakes as well. I love them. Specialized – well I think they’re crap.

I get the impression that a lot of top draw tyre manufacturers have awful quality control because most of the big brands have these issues. Schwalbe seem to be the one with the worst reputation but touch wood I’ve been lucky with them so far.

Sorry… DHR 2 with all those letters and things.
Anyway im really unimpressed.
I’ve A pair of ardents that came on the bike But felt awful on the local terrain (stealth ad, make me an offer.. 3 rides on them !)
I can’t believe how easily the DHR cut, the hole in the bead may mean it’s the bin next. At nearly £40 s tyre that’s just rubbish,

”had maxxis dhr/dhf combo for at least 5 years… one puncture. riding in the Lakes as well. I love them. Specialized – well I think they’re crap.“

come one… what’s the secret,,, pressure? Sealent, are you running rim strips?

the last time I had tyres this rubbish was when I bought into the conti vert pro Nonsense..they were just dreadful tyres,

Worst stealth ad ever 😀

Apart from the full DH casing ones they do seem unreasonably puncture prone. The puncturing at the bead thing is unforgivable and it’s been going on for nearly fifteen years now. It writes off tyres.

Martyn don’t know… maybe just lucky… sliced a specialised wide open on first downhill, got another from bike treks for free and did it again second ride. Maxxis no strips, stans sealant but weigh 65kg maybe that helps…

Bet I puncture tomorrow ….

Yeh… bit more than 65kg here..

the massive ball ache is I got my partner the Vitoria Goma  2.4 from on one @9.99 per tyre and they are seemingly way better!!!

Good (in a way) I’m not the only one who’s not massively impressed with maxxis..

Specialized tyres were made by Maxxis until recently, so it’s strange to compare the two. In fact, ever since Maxxis stopped making them they’ve been crap from a grip point of view.

I only ever use DD or DH cases and have never had any issues with Maxxis.

JP

Don’t want to say what my favourites are because the prices will go through the roof. Once the Internets everything’s too cheap people, fill their sheds up to the ceiling, hype them up, scream it from the rooftops and proclaim they should be twice the price!

WTF is wrong with these people, are they for real? Stealth/viral marketing, vested interests or silly little fanbois. It’s almost like they want to pay more for stuff to further cement their sound buying choices and prestige.

Don’t just buy any old allen keys (not the one’s most used in industry) get the most expensive one’s with pretty colours and a handcrafted wooden case!

Exo minion is the lightest weight most puncturey Minion they do. And it’s ime tougher than some direct competitors like schwalbe snakeskin. Wish their range included better tough options thoug- I feel like “all rounder” bikes have got so much more capable but “all rounder” tyres haven’t really got tougher to match, especially with wider rims often making the sidewalls a bit more exposed.

Apart from the full DH casing ones they do seem unreasonably puncture prone. The puncturing at the bead thing is unforgivable and it’s been going on for nearly fifteen years now. It writes off tyres.

+1

Had a couple of tyres go right at the bead, rest of the carcass fine, just a slit at the bead. Managed to save one of the tyres. And both of these were on DD Ardent…!

I guess it depends a lot on how you ride and how much pressure. GF runs roughly same pressure and rides the same terrain, just not at the speed/loonieness that I do.

EXO is fine for the front but you need way more pressure if you’re using it on the rear on rocks.

I’ve also put holes in Supergravity or DoubleDown carcasses on the rear, but it’s much less frequent.

I am gonna try a DHR2 EXO+ with a rimstrip on the back this year, but I’m not massively confident about it.

No puncture today, instead rear mech snapped. Shouldn’t have jinxed it!

I’ve been happy enough with Maxxis which I’ve used since leaving conti behind. (Now that was a crap tyre since they moved away from UST) Exo on the front and I’ve not had any bother. I did pinch an aggressor DD close to the bead but repaired it with a couple of mushroom patches and it was then sound for the rest of the treat life.

I think you might have been a bit unlucky.

You know you can plug holes next to the bead just the same as you can with ones in the tread using an anchovy/dynaplug style thing? I’ve yet to have to bin a tyre because of punctures.

WTB Tough casings seem pretty, well, tough. The downside is that they weigh a lot, and the “fast rolling” rubber isn’t very grippy and the “grippy” rubber isn’t very fast rolling…!

Long time maxxis fan here and the Dhr 2 is my favourite tyre .but something has changed recently with quality .
this year I’ve had to send 3 tyres back to CRC for the carcass distortion.high roller 2 dhf DD and a Dhr2.
The sidewalls just seem a lot flimsier too.
Maxxis never made tyres for spesh btw…. they were made in the same factory as maxxis at Cheng shin tyre plant which is a subsidiary of maxxis ..
All tyre manufacturers use a subsidiary company to produce there tyres so never ever have full control of what’s going on.do QC can be an issue .
Only panaracer have there own dedicated factory without outside interference but have concentrated there business away from MTB tyres for the vast number of years ….any there recent offerings aren’t getting great reviews.

carcass distortion

Has this a few times in the past two years as well. GF rear dhr has a wobble and I’ve had it on an Agressor….

I said earlier I had punctures at the bead on an Ardent, I didn’t, it was an Agressor both times.

Specialized tyres were made by Maxxis until recently, so it’s strange to compare the two

Not that they were but being made by the same company is irrelevant.

Its the same with food, branded and supermarket branded can be made at the same factory but with different ingredients and manufacturing processes.

Anyway had Maxxis EXO tyres for years and they’ve been the most puncture resistant for me – 148lb rider, pennines/peaks/lakes/Scotland etc riding, race on them as well. Schwalbe were the worst for me.

I had to send a HR2 DD 2.4 back this year because it was so distorted it touched the swingarm.

On an orange!

Specialized’s higher end road tyres were made by Vittoria in Thailand. Not sure about their MTB stuff.
Cheng Shin Tyres, or CST, own Maxxis outright though.

Yeah I always thought Maxxis was just a brand name for CST.

It’d be really interesting to know who makes the tyres for all the smaller brands.

Do I recall that Mavic are made by Hutchinson?

Don’t want to say what my favourites are because the prices will go through the roof.

You’re obviously held in high esteem.

I’ve put an EXO DHF in the rear since my slaughter died, it’s been very good for a couple of months now, surprisingly as I’d kinda decided never to use EXO on the rear again after various punctures and rips before.

@Jonedwards +1 A mushroom plug sorts holes anywhere on the tyre, no need to bin it.

Seems to be positive feedback about Michelin DH22’s. I’ve never tried Michelin tyres yet but may give them a try in something XC orientated.

Read the thread this week just after spending 64 on a new EXO+ DHR2 in 29er flavour. Split close to bead and one further up the carcass. FFS. Feeling the sidewalls, it does feel thinner than the first EXO+ casing model I had (27.5), which seemed bombproof with a rimpact. 2.5 hours riding is frustrating. Then fitted a spare I had which is 3 months old and I’ve noticed a distorted carcass.

How did everyone get on with getting the carcass distortion warrantied?

You’re obviously held in high esteem.

Aw shucks. If it’s any consolation you’re the best everybody wants to be like you.

WTB Tough casings seem pretty, well, tough. The downside is that they weigh a lot, and the “fast rolling” rubber isn’t very grippy and the “grippy” rubber isn’t very fast rolling…!

They’re absolutely rubbish, stay away at all costs 😉🤐

Swapped over to my preferred specialized tyres, butcher front, purgatory rear.
same pressure, rode the same trails, no punctures..

It does seem like maxxis are a bit hit and miss..

slightly used tyres appearing on classifieds soon!!!

These seem really fragile. Roughly the same pressure,22-25 psi

1x small hole just above the bead

You pinched the bead. Meaning you need more pressure for how you ride/ your riding weight.

No tyre is going to not pinch, if you run it inappropriately.

When I’m somewhere rocky like the Alps, or Málaga I tend to run about 5psi more pressure.

I’ve yet to get a puncture in my Maxxis EXO tyres, without inserts.

Also, sh1t happens. Everyone is gonna puncture eventually, and most of the time it’s not the tyre’s fault.

I’ve run Minion DHR II, Magic Mary, and Hans Dampf over the past 5 years tubeless and have never had a puncture 🤷🏻‍♂️

Maxxis DD are great.

I have older HR2’s that are still great. But the recent dhf and dhr 2.3’s seem less tough and fluid leaks constantly through the sidewalls. Switched to XR4’s.

My dad was asking me what pressure I runn my tyres at the other day. I aim 28 front, 30 back, but it prompted me to look at the sidewall stated pressure and was really surprised by the 35 psi minimum on Maxxis 2.3’s fitted to my Whyte. Thought it would be mid 20’s.

My dad was asking me what pressure I runn my tyres at the other day. I aim 28 front, 30 back, but it prompted me to look at the sidewall stated pressure and was really surprised by the 35 psi minimum on Maxxis 2.3’s fitted to my Whyte. Thought it would be mid 20’s.

It’s long been like that. I’ve always assumed it’s to stop people attacking tubes in and complaining about punctures constantly.

How much wobble, or carcass distortion is acceptable on a new tyre? How bad will the wobble get before you bin an existing tyre?

Three words: Michelin Wild Enduros

It’s more a case of laziness, I know they’ll replace it if I send it back, but can I be arsed to remove and post a tyre? I’ve had wobbly tyres from new but never enough to be noticeable off road. Deformed from riding is another matter, binned an EXO DHR2 from that.