Mavic Crossmax SX rear wheel play, bearing adjustment?

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  • Mavic Crossmax SX rear wheel play, bearing adjustment?
  • posiwev
    Member

    Remove the wheel and give it another try

    Sorry, should have said I tried it with the wheel out. I even stripped off the cassette and removed the drive side end cap and preload adjuster to see what difference reassembling it would make.

    [Img]http://i.imgur.com/MyTMWUnl.jpg[/img]

    Noticed some play in the rear wheel on my Strive, if I grasp the wheel at the radius and rock side-side there is a knocking/clunk sound. Took the wheel out and you can feel free-play on the drive side so it’s definitely the wheel rather than any of the suspension bushes.

    Then I remembered mavic provide a little bearing adjustment widget- great! However, it seems to make no difference at all. It’s only plastic with tiny little lugs so there is very limited capacity to torque up the locknut as it is I’ve partially sheered off one of the lugs on the tool. The locknut is on the non-drive side and the free play can only be felt on the drive side.

    Anyone got any experience with adjusting these or suggestions where to go next? Who can I contact for help as I don’t want to ride it like this and damage the bearings.

    jedi
    Member

    i always use mine with a slight play in the rear or it over loads the bearings.

    mrphil
    Member

    Been using a jet wash/chain degreaser on the rear wheel as my Deemax gave the same issues where it had worn the inner bearing.

    I replaced both with the bearing size 6903, bear in mind this is for Deemax wheels and not your own.I think* yours are 6902 size.

    I replaced both for under £13. I wouldn’t tighten it more at the increased heat from the worn bearings may result in more ££ for the free wheel bearing change.

    *think they were the same as Hopr Pro 2 Evo wheels.

    As an ex-owner of Mavic wheels – Those wheels use cartridge bearings so:

    If the bearings are loose in the wheel, the tool will clamp the tight. Really the tool is for taking the cover on and off to change the bearings

    If there is play in the bearings, clamping them tighter in the wheel will not remover the play (nor will clamping the skewer tighter), this only works with cup and cone bearings. Your only solution is to change the wheel bearings.

    Hope that helps.

    bikebob
    Member

    Not had mine long so no probs yet. (although did trash rim on first ride, ouch. Full rebuild, great guys at Cadence). I bought a metal spanner and whilst not had to use it yet, I’m advised not to go over tight. I think they probably make it plastic for a reason other than cost, ie spanner shears before bearing.
    Let us know how you get on, and if you replace bearings with what and how easy / difficult.
    Hope you get it sorted.

    The weird thing I found was the preload adjuster made zero difference. There was just the same amount of free play with it done up as tight as the plastic tool would allow as there was with it totally loose.. Which suggests to me the drive side bearing is goosed. 🙁

    b r
    Member

    Unsure why something with cartridge bearings would have ‘preload’?

    wrecker
    Member

    I’ve found that the preload adjuster comes loose after a few rides. Tightening it up with circlips always gets rid of all of the play.

    I’ve found that holding the bearing preload tool still and tightening the 17mm nut on the other side is easier to do.

    patriotpro
    Member

    getonyourbike – Member
    I’ve found that holding the bearing preload tool still and tightening the 17mm nut on the other side is easier to do.

    and

    Your only solution is to change the wheel bearings.

    How old are the bearings?

    Premier Icon Trekster
    Subscriber

    http://dragonsza.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/mavic-qrm-adjustment-explained.html

    Although this does seem alien to me. In my experience it is usual to replace sealed ball bearings once play sets in

    The wheel came on the strive and was new last Summer.

    Spoken to a local bike shop today who are mavic dealers. They said to take it in, they can send it off to mavic which would be good as it should be under warranty but it sounds like they can have a pretty shocking turnaround time.

    They also mentioned they could order the bearings from mavic and replace in the shop which would obviously be quicker..

    ferrit
    Member

    The plastic preload one you tried should tighten things up. If not then I suspect it’s new bearings time.

    I’ve now sold my SXs after getting fed up tightening this all the time as it seems to constantly work loose. Even with a spot of loctite.

    Spoke to the Mavic gurus on on TransProvence who reliably informed me that it’s an adjuster for ‘speed’. I.e. you go faster when it’s looser. I have never heard such a load of codswallop.

    My Pro IIs on Flow have been flawless so far.

    Thanks ferrit. After partially stripping the hub I can’t really understand what the preload adjuster actually does.. it seems independent from bolting up the axle, i.e you can bolt the axle up tight with the preload adapter totally loose and it still spins just fine, equally tightening it right up doesn’t seem to effect how smoothly the wheel turns.

    Might take it into LBS on friday and see if they can do the bearings for me

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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