Mancave build, nearly started but advice needed
Ideally tyvek housewrap, but it’s not cheap, as an alternative any breathable roof felt overlapped if building regs not involved, should be around £70-£100 for a 1x50m roll. I’d wait till the DIY sheds have their loft insulation offers on to help with the budget.Posted 4 years ago
Started the prep for the base and going to use 4×2 @ 600mm centres for the uprights and loglap, shiplap or feather edge for the outer. Would like loglap but think the budget will end up being with feather edge as it’s nearly half the cost…..
Would it be best to tack some sort of membrane/lining paper underneath whichever outer covering I use, if so which one?
Thinking that using feather edge wont be as weather tight as the others.
Eventually I will fit some sort of insulation inside, between ceiling joists and studs etc leaving an air gap.
ThanksPosted 4 years agoalpinMember
yup, definately use a paper membrane. i built myself a shed a few years back and didn’t do this. helps insulate from drafts. you say you need 45m, but have you allowed for 100mm overlap for each run?
also, stuff it full or insulation. kingspan type stuff if you can afford it and fill the gaps with rockwool.Posted 4 years ago
Thanks for replies.
Having slept on it, I’m in two minds if I should put a membrane on or not now….Would it be better to have a bit of air flow to help with ventilation or is it better to seal it all off?
Tyvek is coming in around £100 for a 50m roll.
Seen THIS on ebay, would it be ok to use?
Re the insulation, I was thinking about getting the 40/50mm kingsan type seconds and leave an air gap between that and the membrane/boards. Would that be the way to go with that?
Shed will be around 4.5m x 3m and around 2.3m high pent roof at the highest point.
No pics yet, trying to work out the budget for everything and see what I can/cant afford!! Hope to start next week.
Next issue, is what roof covering…..see the threads about EDPM and that does look good but not sure if I can afford that over mineral felt…Posted 4 years agoBaldysquirtSubscriber
I would go with the following build-up:
Timber cladding (I don’t think what type is critical tbh as long as the timber is reasonably durable – the breather membrane is what provides the actual waterproofing, the timber essentially protects it from the force of driving rain and from UV)
min 25mm deep vertical treated SW battens same centres as stud frame
breathable membrane (tyvek / kingspan nilvent / Pro-Clima Solitex)
100×50 studs with full fill rockwool batt or similar insulation.
15mm osb3 lining (if fitted carefully with good butt joints this not only provides frame stiffness but also a decent air-tight layer). You can also fix shelves and hooks to it easily and securely.
For the roof I’d use the same construction but a different roof cladding as it’s much more exposed than the timber on the walls and has a greater performance requirement. I’ve heard good things about Onduline corrugated bitumen sheet which can be bought from Wickes. I would also consider a slightly larger air gap – say 50mm rather than 25mm of battens.
As a note, I would try wherever possible not to use a kingspan type product in timber frame as it likes to trap moisture against timber rather than letting the whole system breathe.Posted 4 years ago
br, unfortunately there is a pretty tight budget, not able to do a build along the lines of footflaps, Mcmoonter et al….. 😉
I used 32kg felt on the old shed and that lasted 10 years+ so hopefully that will do for this build too.
Would it be best to go for polycarbonate over perspex then kristoff?
I’ll also check out the local window co’s on Monday for prices too,Posted 4 years ago
What would you stick on the roof of a shed ? 18mm osb and mineral felt is all ive ever used.
Lasts me just fine.
In a previous shed ive done double layer of smoked triple wall polycarbonate from a conservatory roof because it was going begging. Solid as a rock ( the reasonably small size helped) let heaps of light in but opaque to stop prying eyes
Look on gumtree and ebay seen plenty windows free to uplift.Posted 4 years ago
Looking good , see you have gone for sunk posts – any particular reason ? Mcmoonter prefers this method too from seeing his pictures
I tend to just stick tanalised joists onto slabs although if there was significant ground level change i guess posts would be better
Building one with singlespeeddan next week, get to break out my new nail gun 🙂Posted 4 years agopedro101Member
looking good,Posted 4 years ago
re insulation , how much time do you plan on spending in there and how do you plan on heating it?? if you don’t supply a source of heat then theres no real point on insulation(insulation such as celotex etc acts as a storage system) , and if like me you use it for bike storage/maintenance ,are you really going to be in there that long!? just a small heater to take the chill off in the winter would suffice. as someone mentioned use tyvek or similar to keep out the drafts, it does not provide the waterproof layer ,that is down to your exterior choice of weatherboard being correctly applied, think of it like this;alot of ‘period’ properties that have not been updated have no fabric layer beneath the roof tiles , its drafty but not wet inside!!
Rain has stopped play.
Managed to get the RH side membraned and boarded and up in place but that was all today unfortunately.
Not decided on which insulation to use yet but I will put some in there if anything just to keep the condensation at bay.
Who knows how long I’ll spend in there…. it has to be a warm dog house though. 🙂Posted 4 years ago
Managed to get the 4 walls up this morning and part of the back wall boarded. Ply along the back wall is to protect the membrane from getting blown off, getting a bit gusty out there now.Posted 4 years ago
Had to finish for the day and head into work….shame as forecast is meant to be pretty bad the next few days.
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