Mancave build, nearly started but advice needed

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  • Mancave build, nearly started but advice needed
  • waveydave
    Member

    use tyvek or equiv. when used with insulation. Use felt if no insulation is used.

    sicklilpuppy
    Member

    Ideally tyvek housewrap, but it’s not cheap, as an alternative any breathable roof felt overlapped if building regs not involved, should be around £70-£100 for a 1x50m roll. I’d wait till the DIY sheds have their loft insulation offers on to help with the budget.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Started the prep for the base and going to use 4×2 @ 600mm centres for the uprights and loglap, shiplap or feather edge for the outer. Would like loglap but think the budget will end up being with feather edge as it’s nearly half the cost…..

    Would it be best to tack some sort of membrane/lining paper underneath whichever outer covering I use, if so which one?
    Thinking that using feather edge wont be as weather tight as the others.

    Eventually I will fit some sort of insulation inside, between ceiling joists and studs etc leaving an air gap.

    Thanks

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Tyvek, that name sounds familiar thanks,
    I’ll have a gander, worked out I need about 45m.
    Any tips where’s the cheapest?

    Will prob get some insulation from that seconds place mentioned on another thread, eventually.

    alpin
    Member

    yup, definately use a paper membrane. i built myself a shed a few years back and didn’t do this. helps insulate from drafts. you say you need 45m, but have you allowed for 100mm overlap for each run?

    also, stuff it full or insulation. kingspan type stuff if you can afford it and fill the gaps with rockwool.

    sicklilpuppy
    Member

    Try encon, screw fix,dyson insulation, or any roofers merchant if any are local. eBay or other internet sites would probably be the cheapest option.

    hora
    Member

    Need pics. It’ll help me visualise my ideas

    Premier Icon Simon
    Subscriber

    Do the insulation when you build the shed otherwise it’ll never get done.

    trail_rat
    Member

    How much is shiplap ? Compar to feather edge at your supplier.

    Id rather ship lap than feather edge anyday.

    Never found any need to insulate walls from drafts with my shiplap shed. Just did the ply roof to stop condensation

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Thanks for replies.

    Having slept on it, I’m in two minds if I should put a membrane on or not now….Would it be better to have a bit of air flow to help with ventilation or is it better to seal it all off?

    Tyvek is coming in around £100 for a 50m roll.
    Seen THIS on ebay, would it be ok to use?

    Re the insulation, I was thinking about getting the 40/50mm kingsan type seconds and leave an air gap between that and the membrane/boards. Would that be the way to go with that?

    Shed will be around 4.5m x 3m and around 2.3m high pent roof at the highest point.

    No pics yet, trying to work out the budget for everything and see what I can/cant afford!! Hope to start next week.

    Next issue, is what roof covering…..see the threads about EDPM and that does look good but not sure if I can afford that over mineral felt…

    Premier Icon Hobster
    Subscriber

    Would definitely go for shiplap rather than featheredge as have made that mistake before and the end result will be far more weatherproof.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Still getting some prices but at the mo shiplap is looking around 30p more per metre.

    Premier Icon Baldysquirt
    Subscriber

    I would go with the following build-up:

    Timber cladding (I don’t think what type is critical tbh as long as the timber is reasonably durable – the breather membrane is what provides the actual waterproofing, the timber essentially protects it from the force of driving rain and from UV)
    min 25mm deep vertical treated SW battens same centres as stud frame
    breathable membrane (tyvek / kingspan nilvent / Pro-Clima Solitex)
    100×50 studs with full fill rockwool batt or similar insulation.
    15mm osb3 lining (if fitted carefully with good butt joints this not only provides frame stiffness but also a decent air-tight layer). You can also fix shelves and hooks to it easily and securely.

    For the roof I’d use the same construction but a different roof cladding as it’s much more exposed than the timber on the walls and has a greater performance requirement. I’ve heard good things about Onduline corrugated bitumen sheet which can be bought from Wickes. I would also consider a slightly larger air gap – say 50mm rather than 25mm of battens.

    As a note, I would try wherever possible not to use a kingspan type product in timber frame as it likes to trap moisture against timber rather than letting the whole system breathe.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Sorry baldy, read your reply a couple of times and I’m not getting where you put the battens?

    min 25mm deep vertical treated SW battens same centres as stud frame

    Roof will be 18mm ply and decided on mineral felt now to help with budget.

    trail_rat
    Member

    If your timber cladding isnt waterproof baldy squirt- youll be wanting better wood.

    Never got wet inside my 18mm shiplap shed ever. No membrane just a lick of wood preserver every couple years

    creamegg
    Member

    Think baldy means this build up…

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Thanks cream, get that now much appreciated.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Base is down!
    Thinking about what windows to fit, has anyone used perspex sheeting?
    Is it strong enough and what thickness is recommended?

    kristoff
    Member

    Think Perspex strength will depend on thickness.

    If you went for a sheet that was say 5mm thick I would hope it would be pretty resistant to an attempted break in.

    Bear in mind normal Perspex scratches reasonably easily compared to polycarbonate.

    b r
    Member

    Roof will be 18mm ply and decided on mineral felt now to help with budget.

    The last place you want to budget, is on the roof.

    Window wise, have you seen how cheap you can get glass even double glazed (got a 3′ x 1′ d/g unit for £15 made-to-measure earlier in the year).

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    br, unfortunately there is a pretty tight budget, not able to do a build along the lines of footflaps, Mcmoonter et al….. 😉
    I used 32kg felt on the old shed and that lasted 10 years+ so hopefully that will do for this build too.

    Would it be best to go for polycarbonate over perspex then kristoff?

    I’ll also check out the local window co’s on Monday for prices too,

    petrieboy
    Member

    My regular road ride takes me past a reclamation yard specializing in used upvc windows. If I was building a shed I’d start with some used sealed units and build the frame around them.

    kristoff
    Member

    Yea polycarbonate will be stronger and more scratch resistant than Perspex.

    Both very easy to work with if cutting/shaping yourself.

    trail_rat
    Member

    What would you stick on the roof of a shed ? 18mm osb and mineral felt is all ive ever used.

    Lasts me just fine.

    In a previous shed ive done double layer of smoked triple wall polycarbonate from a conservatory roof because it was going begging. Solid as a rock ( the reasonably small size helped) let heaps of light in but opaque to stop prying eyes

    Look on gumtree and ebay seen plenty windows free to uplift.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Progress so far, have to add that I am the helper/hinderer in the build, brother in law is the main man. 🙂
    What once was…

    To the start of the new……

    Hope to continue sometime midweek….

    trail_rat
    Member

    Looking good , see you have gone for sunk posts – any particular reason ? Mcmoonter prefers this method too from seeing his pictures

    I tend to just stick tanalised joists onto slabs although if there was significant ground level change i guess posts would be better

    Building one with singlespeeddan next week, get to break out my new nail gun 🙂

    kristoff
    Member

    Good progress. Base looks reassuringly strong 🙂

    I imagine the posts make it considerably easier to keep it all level. Will probably do similar when I come to building mine. Did you concrete/post create them in or just beat them into the ground?

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Left the slabs in place that were used for the shed base and as the ground is on a slope concreted the posts in for the front half of the new build.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    We did a few hours today, sides are just tacked in place for now. RH side will be laid down and cladded tomorrow if the rain holds off.

    Edric 64
    Member

    Polycarbonate can be bought cut to size from these people

    http://www.righton.co.uk/

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Cheers, any idea of costs? Couldn’t find the prices.

    pedro101
    Member

    looking good,
    re insulation , how much time do you plan on spending in there and how do you plan on heating it?? if you don’t supply a source of heat then theres no real point on insulation(insulation such as celotex etc acts as a storage system) , and if like me you use it for bike storage/maintenance ,are you really going to be in there that long!? just a small heater to take the chill off in the winter would suffice. as someone mentioned use tyvek or similar to keep out the drafts, it does not provide the waterproof layer ,that is down to your exterior choice of weatherboard being correctly applied, think of it like this;alot of ‘period’ properties that have not been updated have no fabric layer beneath the roof tiles , its drafty but not wet inside!!

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Rain has stopped play.
    Managed to get the RH side membraned and boarded and up in place but that was all today unfortunately.

    Not decided on which insulation to use yet but I will put some in there if anything just to keep the condensation at bay.

    Who knows how long I’ll spend in there…. it has to be a warm dog house though. 🙂

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    Managed to get the 4 walls up this morning and part of the back wall boarded. Ply along the back wall is to protect the membrane from getting blown off, getting a bit gusty out there now.
    Had to finish for the day and head into work….shame as forecast is meant to be pretty bad the next few days.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    If anyone is interested 🙂 managed to get the roof on yesterday and covered in a tarp for now. Pretty frustrating only being able to chip away at it & do an hour here and there as the main man is very busy at the mo.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    The latest stage. Hope to get the front boarded by end of weekend.
    Windows along the side will be cut it later on.

    Saccades
    Member

    Looks good, but I thought a pent roof was single pitch affair, whereas yours looks flat horizontal.

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    No it is a pent roof it slopes to the back camera angle deceives!

    Premier Icon granny_ring
    Subscriber

    All boarded up now 🙂 a few tweaks and another coat of paint… 🙁
    Thinking of putting a small window over the door and as yet not decided where the other small windows will go.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 42 total)

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