Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)
  • Make own J-Bar…
  • sb88
    Free Member

    The J bar is expensive,e and hard to find. But bars with a closed ‘loop’ at the front are not.

    However that means you can’t get your brake/gear levers on the ‘horns’ to get the most comfortable hand position.

    How about cutting this bar with a hacksaw…

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/humpert-space-handlebars-254mm-clamp-prod34020/

    to turn it into this…

    http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/bikes-and-gear/components/handlebars/mountain/1263897431285-j2unblahj72i-700-80.jpg

    http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/n-d57o0b/6jcqg/product_images/uploaded_images/new-h1-710cutbar-al.jpg?t=1417710317

    At first I thought it would compromise it structurally, but it seems that the welds are in the same place as in the Jones/Titec bars and I imagine that is how Jones/Titec bars are made – a piece of bent bar tubing, the bit that the stem clamps on to welded on, then the bent tubing cut at the front to create the gap and the ‘horns’ rather than a closed loop.

    Of course you could just get levers/shifters which bend / clamp onto the closed portion, but that would negate the budget nature of my plan!

    Ed: I think the most comfortable position for a compromise of speed and not-too hunched over is probably with the thumb under the bar at the point the straight section meets the swept back section, as enable in the set up pictured above. Similar arm angle/height to being in the hoods of a road bike. Putting the brake/gear levers on the regular end of the bar would prevent your thumb being able to settle at the angle of the bar where the straight portion meets the swept back portion.

    iolo
    Free Member

    What could possibly go wrong?
    It might be ok but who can say?
    If you value your teeth and bones maybe rethink your plan.

    Cheezpleez
    Full Member

    The Humpert bar is only 630mm wide. That would put me off.

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    atlaz
    Free Member

    My concern would be that neither of the side welds are designed to take pressure on their own. Could be okay. Could explode killing a badger and a child.

    sb88
    Free Member

    Seems like a design flaw in the original model to me in a way – why not have a swept back / Mary bar, then weld in the front section. Welding on the bar clamp section doesn’t seem like the “safest” solution. But for several hundred quid/dollars, I’m sure they’re good.

    Get an ironmonger to make one?
    My local guy made a headset extracting tool out of a bit of curtain pole for me for £1, so for some custom steel J-bars, maybe £3 and a packet of biscuits (cookies, to the Americans)… ?

    😉

    sb88
    Free Member

    Width isn’t a problem for me – for touring on roads/light tracks I’d want a width closer to a road drop bar (42-44cm) than a regular MTB bar (though when I rode MTBs they were only about 52cm wide!)

    But yeah, you’re probably right – I imagine pulling back on the bars from the grip portion, with the closed loop, the force is taken up by the whole bar, but with it cut, you’re basically yanking back on a piece of metal welded to a bar in a vice…

    So why do I still want to try it…

    sb88
    Free Member
    birdage
    Full Member

    There were still a few Titec ones at £45 on ebay as of a few days ago..

    iolo
    Free Member

    If you’re determined to try then go ahead.
    Be sure to post gruesome photos of your injuries.

    pictonroad
    Full Member

    Have you tried a loop bar? The horizontal section that the stem clamps is kicked forward at the ends as per your link, there really is loads of space for brakes and shifters, I think you might be creating an issue that isn’t there.

    sb88
    Free Member

    Hmmm. Just bought a butterfly bar (!) that I’m not overly convinced by (lots of positions but they’re all ‘extra’ positions – you lose out on the normal flat bar position) so don’t want to spend much until I’ve sold some bits.

    What I really want is a bar shaped like this:

    _____
    / / \ \
    I / \ I
    I____________/ \ _____________I

    All genuinely usable positions
    – Angled inner portion for an narrower, still somewhat aero upright position
    – Flat bar portion for upright / control
    – Angled bar end portion for climbing / accelerating.

    Sort of a reversed mustache bar, but with flat portions instead of a curve. Or an angled-back riser bar with bar ends, but neater than that.

    Edit: Ok, so it doesn’t like my drawing, so just imagine a mustache bar reversed, with flat portions instead of a sharp curve.

    sb88
    Free Member

    Anyway.

    Now I’ve woken up a bit more and seen sense, I’ll try a cheaper version of the loop bar.

    One of these.

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/humpert-boomerang-handlebars-254-mm-clamp-prod32098/#bottomsection

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/humpert-space-handlebars-254mm-clamp-prod34020/

    Opinions on which?

    I’m using some old Deore friction shifters which can be bent ( :?) to clamp on the inner portion to get them out the way.

    faustus
    Full Member

    I know you’re not bothered about width, but there’s a definite comfort difference between having your hands on hoods or drops on a narrow bar, and an mtb position. I’ve ridden the space humperts on someone’s bike for a bit, and they were OK. But when compared with a proper Jones loop bar they where nowhere near as good or comfortable. For longer rides, it’s worth forking out a bit more. Loop bars have tons of room for levers and grips too…

    jameso
    Full Member

    How about cutting this bar with a hacksaw…

    Keep an eye on it if you do. They’re fairly solid / thick wall but personally I’m not sure I’d want to. I have some of the Humpert Space bars (or very similar – same dimensions, prob same supplier etc) as well as Jones Loops and the Jones bars feel a lot more substantial. The Humperts work fine with brake/gears slid onto the rearward extensions and the front loop may be useful. They’re a bit narrow for off-road use but on a mixed-use or town bike I quite like them.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Surely you just want to put the controls in the right place. I give you the Soma Sparrow bars, upturned, you will need a longer stem. Available in multiple widths including very wide. Love mine.

    I wouldn’t be cutting a welded bar.

    Used in anger…

    sb88
    Free Member

    Surely you just want to put the controls in the right place. I give you the Soma Sparrow bars, upturned, you will need a longer stem. Available in multiple widths including very wide. Love mine.

    Hmmm. Nice. by ‘upturned do you mean flipped over so there is a slight drop, like a very shallow-drop drop bar?

    Bit like a North Road bar, which I’m also considering.

    sb88
    Free Member

    What could possibly go wrong?
    It might be ok but who can say?
    If you value your teeth and bones maybe rethink your plan.

    Uh oh. Someone’s already done it…

    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/236470/?offset=150

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Can anyone explain those jones bars? They seem exactly the same as in one fleegles which seem to manage just fine without the front piece? I guess it makes a handy place to fit lights…

    jameso
    Full Member

    Can anyone explain those jones bars? They seem exactly the same as in one fleegles which seem to manage just fine without the front piece? I guess it makes a handy place to fit lights…

    They’re not really the same, just initially a bit similar looking. The loops are stiffer than normal M-bars (fleegles and others), stiffer than the original H-bars I’d say, noticeable on my SS. Front section is useful for lights, GP, bar rolls, etc. More hand positions. Wider than many M-bars as well as much more sweep – if that’s what you want.

    shermer75
    Free Member

    My main question will be whether the bit you want to use for mounting brakes/gears is the right diameter or not…

    thomthumb
    Free Member

    Get an ironmonger to make one?

    More niche than jones too.

    top marks. 😉

    TiRed
    Full Member

    by ‘upturned do you mean flipped over so there is a slight drop,

    Exactly. Very pleased with the position and I use Ergon grips.

    Another gratuitous picture…

    sb88
    Free Member

    Exactly. Very pleased with the position and I use Ergon grips.
    Another gratuitous picture…

    This is the route I’m going down… a very shallow drop trekking bar flipped to give a bit of drop. Cheap to see if it’s good first…

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/humpert-toulouse-handlebars-254mm-clamp-prod34027/

    http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p45934/ETC-Northroad-Handleber.aspx

    This one’s a particular bargain:

    http://www.parkersofbolton.co.uk/products/raleigh-trekking-comfort-alloy-handlebars?CAWELAID=620001070000090016&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=620001070000095017&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQjw98mvBRD-_ciSovKhq7gBEiQAEvsBZxhVoHNOQ03hqMpayundJSfcRlHJymLyLoQze_FtLUIaAsfX8P8HAQ

    molgrips
    Free Member

    When I got my Kona Dew in 2007 or so it came with these granddad bars that I thought were ridiculous at the time and replaced them with a flat bar which I thought was great. However now after riding with the sweep of Fleegles the flat bar seems borderline unrideable, so I am going to put the originals back on!

Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)

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