Viewing 39 posts - 41 through 79 (of 79 total)
  • Maintenance cost of 1x
  • weeksy
    Full Member

    Are the people talking about 4000km of riding on a cassette just running everything into the ground or changing chains?

    I’ve got a decent chunk of 4000km on my PArkwood, standard chain, cassette, etc… I don’t use a chain checker, i don’t use chainlube either actually. Just clean and GT85 after every ride.

    AlexSimon
    Full Member

    2 years and 6 months (4,000km) on my X1 11sp

    In that time I bought 3 £11 KMC chains. Nothing else.
    It needs jockey wheels.

    I thought it needed a new cassette.
    I bought a spare from Tiawan XG-1195 on ebay for £79
    But then I realised it was a bent mech hanger instead.

    I’ve just replaced it all with GX Eagle. Hope it lasts as well!

    molgrips
    Free Member

    From these reports then it does seem to suggest the sprockets would last longer.

    If we put most of our pedalling effort into lower gears, with a 1x setup one would spend much more time in the bigger sprockets than you would with 3x, which could mean less wear as they are much larger.

    Interesting stuff.

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    mcnultycop
    Full Member

    The issue is probably the 9 speed stuff, it will tail off in availability (or at least decent cassettes will) over time.

    JonEdwards
    Free Member

    been running XO1 for 3 years 5 months. All year riding in the peak mostly.

    Still on the original cassette, but have just fitted a second new 42T sprocket – seem to get about 18-20 months out of them.

    Chains changed at 0.75%, reckon maybe 4 a year?

    Ring changed when it starts dropping the chain. Just put the 4th one on (so about a year each)

    The system likes clean cables far more than my old XO 2×9 setup, so I reckon new ones maybe twice a year.

    Jockey wheels maybe once a year. The rear mech is beaten to crap but still shifts passably.

    I used to just run my old 2×9 setups into the ground. I’d expect a year out of chain/cass./rings. Feels like 1×11 is slightly more expensive to run, but more of a constant minor dribble of cash rather than annual big lumps, it’s 500g lighter and within spitting distance of the same range. On the whole I’m happy.

    Stevet1
    Free Member

    Jockey wheels maybe once a year.

    Which jockey wheels are you using as replacements as I’ve noticed mine could do with replacing but the SRAM ones are shockingly high prices.

    P-Jay
    Free Member

    Are the people talking about 4000km of riding on a cassette just running everything into the ground or changing chains?

    Not me, my first decided to just stop working yesterday after 2000kms or so, still on the original chain, should have changed it a year ago, mistreated, rode hard and hung up wet covered in grime and crap.

    I’m an idiot, more so because I could have ordered one last week for about £20 less, but I put it off until it started to launch me over the bars, by which time it was of course more expensive.

    Proactive maintenance FTW.

    AlexSimon
    Full Member

    Are the people talking about 4000km of riding on a cassette just running everything into the ground or changing chains?

    I used a chain gauge and changed halfway between half and full worn.
    I use Rock n Roll Extreme, ride in the Peak District but only weigh 60kg. I’ve gone through 3 pairs of pedals in the same time!

    gravesendgrunt
    Free Member

    I’m the same as Jon above,I always try to replace chain at 0.75% wear.
    I’ve tried the run it into the ground method on my old 2×8 winter bike and it didn’t really work well for me- I reckon I was getting around 500 winter miles per chain,but then only around an extra 300 miles on top when I just ran it all till dead-until chainsuck and skipping became evident,taking whole drivetrain with it in the process.
    As with all things bikey-some peeps ride 10 miles a week others over 100 so individual value is in the eye of the beholder I guess 🙂

    RustySpanner
    Full Member

    These figures are pretty impressive.

    On 3*9, all year round, mostly wet, I usually get a year out of a cassette and a chain.
    Rings average out about one a year, so no difference there really.

    My issues with 1* have always been about range and value.
    It’s now getting to the stage where I’ll seriously consider it.

    I’d be willing to trade a gear or two at the top for longer component life for a similar overall cost.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    I would mainly do it to save weight, but also partly just cos. Supposedly XC bike is a bit porky.

    Not sound reasons, I know, but we’re all fools occasionaly aren’t we? Aren’t we?

    RustySpanner
    Full Member

    It’s just about function and value for me, tbh.

    Tend to buy good shifters and cranks, but prefer Deore rear mechs, cassettes, and rings as they seem to last as well if not better than anything lighter and more expensive.
    Never had any issues with Shimano 3*9 apart from the bottom brackets.

    If I do go 1* I’d prefer square taper, will have to have a think about that.

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    The other thing to consider is maintenance and lubrication…

    I’ve just started experimenting with DIY “hot waxing” (ooh-err) for my chain, and so far I’m impressed with the smoothness, quietness and lack of sticky gunk on chain, sprockets and jockey wheels.
    I’m assuming with less gritty crap adhering, mixing with oils and acting as a grinding a paste, the component wear rates will reduce, but is that necessarily the case?

    If I do go 1* I’d prefer square taper, will have to have a think about that.

    Running 1×9 on my CX bike with an old Square-taper LX crankset, there are lots of 104BCD N/W rings available so BB choice isn’t really a constraint

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    I’m assuming with less gritty crap adhering, mixing with oils and acting as a grinding a paste, the component wear rates will reduce, but is that necessarily the case?

    Lots of people bang on about it but nobody seems to have done any comparison.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    I’m assuming with less gritty crap adhering, mixing with oils and acting as a grinding a paste, the component wear rates will reduce, but is that necessarily the case?

    Well it’s the water that transports the mud inside the chain to wear away the rollers, so if you can get the water to bead off then I guess it would help.

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    Lots of people bang on about it but nobody seems to have done any comparison.

    The Link from this thread and others is always to this article.

    Which is focussed on working efficiency and watts saved, for now any ideas on longevity are mostly anecdotes and guess work TBH…

    One thing that did occur to me; is there anything to be gained by waxing other parts of the drivetrain? i.e .the cassette sprockets and chainring? Obviously the wax would vanish from the teeth and any contact areas, but nothing much seems to stick to the waxed surfaces of the chain so would a wax coating on other parts improve their water and dirt shedding even further?

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Worth a try. Also do jockey wheels and dunk your cranks?

    whitestone
    Free Member

    Lightweight components exposed to the elements? Yes, surprise, surprise, they are going to wear out. Generally it’s not a concern unless you are running SRAM Eagle 1×12 I suppose.

    Looking back at my component “consumption”, at 8000Km I’d used:

    one Hope 40T TRex
    Three XT 11-36T cassettes
    One RaceFace 30T chainring
    One Hope 32T chainring
    One AB 32T oval chainring
    Three or four chains – can’t remember

    One thing with the SRAM Eagle is that the gear spacing is fairly consistent, certainly when compared with the SunRace 11-50 there’s no big jumps in the middle of the cassette. The only jumps bigger than 17% are the top and bottom ones whereas the Sunrace has a 20% gap between 15 & 18T. The only big jump on the Shimano 11-46 is at the bottom end where it goes from 37T – 46T!

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    Worth a try. Also do jockey wheels and dunk your cranks?

    I’m only using an old pan at present, I can see a cheap fryer in my future though, I’m not sure it’s big enough to accomodate cranks 😉

    I’m also not sure waxing the jockey wheels is wise, those are spinning at a fair few RPM compared to everything else in the drivetrain so they probably require actual oil/grease lubrication…

    mccraque
    Full Member

    I’m running XT 1×11

    3000km on the clock…1st chainring, 3rd chain, just had to change a cassette (I left the chain marginally too long….my mistake, one cog skipped)

    Pretty impressed with it thus far.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Got bored, decided to try 1×9 and could only find three suitable washers for shimming the middle ring. Arse.

    brassneck
    Full Member

    One of my boys is running 1×9 (11-34 on a 30T NW) – works pretty well,at least I rarely see him off and walking. A ‘one up’ on 9 speed to a 40 would be great, could re use half my garage then.

    n0b0dy0ftheg0at
    Free Member

    mikewsmith – Member
    n0b0dy0ftheg0at – Member
    ~£20…
    For another 8-speed cassette and chain

    and your point is?
    Very happy with the cost/km of my setups

    I’m happy that you’re happy with how much you pay for your consumeables, I’m also happy that mine cost a lot less than 1x consumables for 1×9/10/11/12, like for instance these days a replacement XD cassette for the Boardman CX Team is ~£80 alone! 😯

    I originally simply posted what my 1x consumables cost, I didn’t reply specifically to you when I posted… Where as now I’m replying to your query. 😆

    AlexSimon
    Full Member

    a replacement XD cassette for the Boardman CX Team is ~£80 alone!

    £63 from Taiwan, or better get the lighter xg-1175 for £81. Arrived in just over a week. In my experience it outlasted XT, so probably worth the money.
    To be honest, I’m surprised they fitted the 10-42 to that. Most CX 1x systems seem to fit the 11t with a standard freehub.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Right, made another chainring spacer, 1x9ed it. I feel all modern, but also cheap since it’s clearly old kit bodged 🙂

    Seems to work ok – but I could do with maybe more spacers since the chainline isn’t great in bottom gear and that’s going to take some torque since it’s 32×34… Also re-using the existing middle ring so we’ll see if the chain stays on.

    I’m using road bar-end thumbshifters with Paul’s mounts and it looks like I might have the mythical ‘hidden click’ that people used to use to run 8sp cassettes on 7sp gear. So I am wondering about fitting a 10sp 11-36 with my existing M970 mech, getting a 10sp chain and a NW 30T ring for ghetto 1×10.

    chrismac
    Full Member

    I have to say my X01 cassettes have lasted way longer than my old XT ones and much longer than I expected. Probalby nearly twice as long, the last X01 did 18 months

    vincienup
    Free Member

    Chrismac, what chains are you running? Question simply because I’ve always run the PCX1 on 11sp but I’ve read recently the ‘hardchrome’ coat on the more expensive chain pays dividends for the more expensive cassettes. I’ve not had cassette issues personally, but I’ve stuck to the steel cassette and ducked up the weight because I was scared of high wear…

    vincienup
    Free Member

    A couple of chain swaps and you’re into new casette money anway. Better off swapping chains at a set wear point, or just running the lot into the ground?

    This is a point that’s come up a few times recently. I’ve read people saying they have run a single chain and cassette for 1000’s of kms a few times. Obviously new chain on worn cassette is always a problem, but the idea of a pair aging together makes sense. Can anyone point me at a sensible review on the subject? Possibly one that controls against the old three chains and thinners thing, I’m of the opinion that that particular approach is of a time gone by when chains and lubes were of relatively lower quality, but it would be an interesting read and probably out of scope for one person to adequately research without a couple of years and fewer commitments than most.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Can I use an 11sp shifter with an old mech and a 10sp cassette?

    chestercopperpot
    Free Member

    Chainring gets replaced if it looks worn or I start getting chain suck.

    You don’t get chain suck with worn NW chain rings, if you have no chain guides they drop the chain when worn. It’s the thick teeth that wear down.

    Aluminium alloy chain rings seem like a dead end to me. Steel is a better choice for the tiniest of tiny weight difference.

    whitestone
    Free Member

    You don’t get chain suck with worn NW chain rings

    Beg to differ. Had it on RaceFace and Hope NW chainrings. Not had it on the Absolute Black oval ring so far.

    Scamper
    Free Member

    Also had chainsuck on the first 2 superstar rings. Now changed to hope so will see.

    chestercopperpot
    Free Member

    Beg to differ

    Never had chain suck since going 1x on any of my 3 bikes.

    Every worn chain ring has been down to the thick teeth not being as thick any more, which reduces a NW rings chain retention ability.

    Are you running chain guides?

    whitestone
    Free Member

    @chestercopperpot – no, no chain guides. I’ve three bikes 1x and one SS with another frame waiting to be built up (CRC order being added to ATM) which will also be 1x.

    chestercopperpot
    Free Member

    Hmmmm wonder how common chain suck is with worn 1x as it’s pretty much ended that problem for me, albeit replaced by increased chain and single chain ring wear.

    Got to say the benefits far outweigh the downsides.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    If I do 1×9 without a clutch mech or a chainguide, am I going to lose my chain all time? On A FS?

    I am aren’t I?

    chestercopperpot
    Free Member

    Some people say no but I’ve tried a standard 10 speed SLX non-clutched mech and the chain dropped quite a bit on rough stuff and heavy landings. With a clutched and modified for expanded cassettes mech, it didn’t drop at all until the chain ring wore out.

    chestercopperpot
    Free Member

    Seems to be more to do with the geometry of newer mechs which wrap the chain around the cassette better, in combination with the stronger spring for the cage. Older mechs pushed out beyond their limits don’t work so good and just feel a bit limp and sloppy.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Just done some reading and it seems inconclusive.

    I need to change the little ring at least, that’s worn, they are £15. For £30 I can get a NW middle ring, and I think I’d be happy with the ratios with a 30T chainring. I might get a 12-36T cassette when it’s due next time which would help some more.

    The chainline isn’t great in bottom gear, and it looks as if the Superstar rings have more of an offset..?

Viewing 39 posts - 41 through 79 (of 79 total)

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