Losing the chain guide.
You will 100% need at least a top guide unless your riding consists entirely of roads, towpaths and anything else that is marble smooth.
Even with a top guide, you will lose the chain from the bottom part of the ring. Nine times out of ten, when you pedal forward, the chain will just come back on but occasionally the chain will push down between the back plate of the guide and the chain ring. Then it can be tricky to get the chain back and most likely you’ll need to loosen the top guide to do so.
How often that happens will depend on the type of guide/backplate your using. The e13 back plates are thicker and so stiffer than say an MRP one, which is very pliable. When I ran the MRP 1.X guide, the chain was constantly jamming and in the end I gave up.
Correct set up will not make any difference to whether you keep your chain or not if you’re riding off road and riding with any kind of pace. Nor will using a clutch type rear mech although this does make the bike quieter.
EDIT – all of this insight does not apply to XX1, which I am led to believe really does work.Posted 4 years agolornholioMember
Try it first, the worst that’ll happen is you have to put your chain back on a few times on your first day.
I just had the first ride on my Mega here in Chamonix (very rocky) without my guide because it hasn’t arrived yet (MRP AMG), using a Zee clutch mech. No problems whatsoever, but I’ll be putting the guide on for bash protection and a little extra security for when I’m hitting the rough stuff fast.Posted 4 years agofuzzheadMember
+1 on you’ll need at least a top guide.
I’ve held off putting a guide on my Meta SX as I wanted to see how good the clutch mech was at helping to retain the chain – I still have the front mech on as a top guide – I’e lost the chain a few times, but even on full bore rocky descent it’s mostly OKPosted 4 years agoDuane…Member
I thought I could get away with just a top guide on my hardtail, only being ridden on smooth dirtjumps and flowy trails so nothing too rough. However, I’ve had the chain work it’s way off quite a number of times, had to unbolt the guide once as the chain was truely stuck..
Will either be fitting a full guide, or going singlespeed soon..Posted 4 years agogonzyMember
if you’re after a top guide then maybe a bit of retro kit like this is worth looking at…
dmr chain guide
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DMR-Chain-Devices-Shimano-Sram-Raceface-FSA-Trutaviv-etc-/321125904120?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D251274622985%26ps%3D54Posted 4 years agoclubbySubscriber
I’ve been running a bionicon chain guide since last summer and its been great. Light, very little drag and I’ve only lost chain once since. Added an extra zip tie to it for stability and I don’t think it would take a big hit but sounds like it may be what you need. A bit too much money for what it is but IMO all chain devices are, but it works.Posted 4 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
Clutch + normal unramped ring – chain device = total failure, in my experience. Like, put chain back on 6 times in one desdent of falla brae at glentress, hardly the most gnar of trails. Might work with a fancy XX1 device, I doubt it though, lots of SRAM’s paid athletes have refused to do that so that’s not a good sign…
Maybe with a narrow cassette it’d be less of an issue though, change the amount of chain slack.Posted 4 years agorob jacksonMember
e13 xcx can be direct mountPosted 4 years ago
I’ve had some success with a clutch mech, SS chainring and just a bash in the past on a HT. I reckon that it might work well with a XX1-style chainring even without bash. Worth a punt. Just cover the BB shell with an inner tube in the meantime in case you do drop the chain excessively (and buy a chainguide at that point).
MRP or the XCX above depending on the type of direct mount.Posted 4 years ago
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