- Loose Headset, yet not…?
Try an extra headset spacer?
I had an issue where the base of the headset topcap was recessed and was touching the top of the fork steerer, thus not allowing me to tighten the headset properly
I was typing up a long winded explanation to explain that exact problem but Leku is clearly more eloquent than me!
Check the topcap. If its not totally flat on the steerer side – that caused similar symptoms for me (ie the recess used up the 2mm ish between the top of the spacers and the steerer).Posted 8 years ago
Ah – Leku’s / CSW – you may have it. I have a 4mm spacer on top of the stem and the cap’s on top of that – the cap is recessed and the top of the steerer protrudes above the Stem into the space.
I’ll give it a go (why didnt I think of that).
RE Forks – the are Revs but non u-turn dual air.Posted 8 years ago
Grrrr. So thats a no. Put all the spacers plus some extras under the stem to leave a 5mm “gap”. Took the opportunity to clean the headset and ensure all the bearings/rings were seated properly.
Done up tight, no avail. Fyi Its a Cane creek double XC 2 using a 1/18 bearing at the top and a 1.5 bearing into the cup at the bottom, which fits onto the “reducing” crown race – any issues with these?Posted 8 years agoboriselbrusSubscriber
What frame is it? On some frames the head tube is too short to take a Rockshox tapered steerer as the taper is too long. Effectively the upper race is tight on the top of the taper before it’s tight on the top of the headtube.
Amazingly there isn’t a standard for the length of taper on a tapered fork so this is an issue. It’s a known problem on On-One 456 small frames for example. It sort of hints at it at the bottom of the specification herePosted 8 years ago
Ah – hello Klunk. No play, tried this already.
Boris – important to understand its a 1.5 Headtube & 1 1/18th fork with reducer headset – Intense Tracer.
I’ve even ridden it around the garden with the fork locked out, and ridden the HT in comparison.
Bloody frustrating!!Posted 8 years ago
No to pads
All headset pieces present and correct
QR is Maxle light, done up tight
Stem/bars (and even ODI grips) checked and tight.
Could be the fork bushings, but it new since Jan, about 2000k on it. Tomorrow I’ll pump it up hard to make sure it’s not top out….. (its Dual air).Posted 8 years ago
Now, Trevor its funny you should mention that. I’ve had issues over the last few months with s small amount stiction in the lower rear shock bush after installing a TfT enduro set (the non top hat one). When I rode the bike `I could indeed feel a “rattle” through the frame
I fixed it and the bikes had 20 or so rides since then, and “leaning” on the saddle doesn’t result in stiction. It could of course till be present…. It just feels very front biased – is it usual to feel that with even a small amount of sticton?
Before anyone mention it, yes all the pivots etc have been checked.Posted 8 years agojimmyjamesMember
Try cranking down the top cap a bit more. I found my Cane Creek headset rattled ever so slightly even though it felt properly adjusted (i.e. I couldn’t actually feel any play). Gave the top cap an extra 1/8th of a turn (or something) and all was well. Just make sure the bars still turn nicely.Posted 8 years agopetefromearthMember
my ODI grips wobble a bit when they’re worn – i.e. the grip moving around in the clamp, no matter how tight it is
brake pad movement (my XT brakes suffer this as well)
does the reducer headset use a shim which might cause additional play? (not actually sure how they work)
can you feel where the wobble is coming from with your finger tips?Posted 8 years ago
Pete, its a crane creek XX2. The Lower 1.5 bearing sits on a crown race for a 1 1/8th and the races “inner” is the inside diaemeter of the 1/5 cartridge. The headset cup is angled and sized for 1.5. Up top, the compression ring is bigger reducing the inner diameter of the 1.5 bearing in the same way.
I checked the ODI’s – no movement. The “rattle” I would describe as a “dull thud”. It could be fork top out but the static test doesnt reveal that, and I have the -ve higher than the +ve (110 vs 100psi, 12st rider) whch should prevent it.
As mentioned I cant feel play at the crown when performing the usual test.Posted 8 years agoTrevorBSubscriber
When did you notice this ‘loose feeling’? Have you replaced anything recently, or has it just ‘crept up ‘ on you?Posted 8 years ago
From experience (my son has a tracer & I have a 5.5) the back end bearings can ‘go’ from one ride to the next. You appear to have checked to death the front end, then it’s time to widen the search.
Sorry if I appear to be teaching granny to suck eggs…..TheBrickMember
possible ovalised head tube? This can give this sensation as the head set will loosen all the time rt be inconstant in it’s tightness.
I presume you have done the front brake on hand round top race, bottom race, fork stanchions, disk mount, disk calliper and anything else.Posted 8 years ago
No worries Trevor. I had a 5.5 before and this bike is new (’10) ridden since Jan onwards – I can’t detect any play in the rear end, and all the bolts are tight.
TheBrick – the headset never loosens and given the age of the Bike, this shouldnt be an issue.
I’m pretty much down to Fork bushings (despite it being a new fork), or stiction in the rear bushes.
One other thing – I’m running a coil shock and although I’ve checked the preload for slack could this be it?Posted 8 years agoShackletonSubscriber
I thought I had the same problem with the wifes Commencal Super4. Only diagnosed it when I noticed that I could feel what I originally thought was a loose headset by lifting the saddle a couple of mm. Turned out to be the lower bushing on the shock.
I doubt it will be preload slack as long as the preload ring is tightened onto the coil.
My fork bushings went on a pair of Pikes and only worked that out after turning the bike upside down and trying to rotate the lowers fore and aft and detecting a slight movement (invisible to the eye).Posted 8 years agoAllenKeysMember
Apologies if someones mentioned this already but dont use your brakes to check the headset. Grab the steerer tube clamp of your stem and the crown and pull/push. Eliminates the brakes to a certain extent. Also I’ve had two pairs of Fox Floats with slight stanchion movement from new. From what I recall it used to be a ‘feature’ that TFtuned could fix. Maybe RS have added it.Posted 8 years agoJamieMcMember
Check the join of the steerer with the fork crown. I had a set of pikes that were giving a similar knocking as if the headset was not loaded propperly. Turned out that the steerer had play in the fork crown. you should swap out the forks you are running now for another set (a mates of a spare if you have)and check if the play is still there. its one way of isolating the problem and ruling out a problem with the forks. good luck, i know how freaking annoying it can be having a problem and not being able to isolate it!Posted 8 years ago
Well, had the entire front end apart (and trimmed the fork to remove the spacers above the Stem). No difference. Tried all the advice above, including riding with the front brakes slightly applied to reduce any rattling pads.
At the same time by BB cups need replacing which gave me an opportunity to look for cracks and clean/tighten the pivot bolts. No issues.
aaaarggh….Posted 8 years ago
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