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Log burning stove- ideas
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Ecky-ThumpFree Member
We lined ours as otherwise you need to use a clay liner adapter and I’ve been told by two independent sources that it generally doesn’t end well (basically your can get tar running down into your fireplace.
That was what one of my freinds found when he had a stove installed in his new extension. Brand-new chimney and hearth. He immediately had problems with tarry residues dripping back into the stove and making a right mess.
He had the contractors back and got it lined.
The problem disappeared.coreFull MemberDon’t forget also that any appliance rated over 5kW requires combustion air, (a permanently open air vent) and it’s recommended for those under, unless your house is really draughty already.
CaptainSlowFree MemberHas anyone got a wood burner in a new build that doesn’t have a chimney?
I like the convenience of newer houses but wouldn’t mind a wood burner and would be interested to know how it compares cost wise
mrmonkfingerFree Membercaptain slow, you can get twin wall flue installed to ‘add’ a chimney. my inlaws have done this for a burner, it works as well as any existing chimney.
the twinwall stuff can be put either outside or inside – outside being the cheaper option. indoors is possible, but will cost more as you have to poke it through floors and the roof – when done you can box this stuff in (i.e. where it runs through a room).
IIRC the inlaws was ~ 1.5k for the twin wall including install (plus stove costs on top).
DickyboyFull Memberindoors is possible, but will cost more as you have to poke it through floors and the roof – when done you can box this stuff in (i.e. where it runs through a room).
Check with HETAS but I think you have to leave any flue joints accessible for inspection these days, so can’t just box it in unless you leave inspection doors in the boxing in.
While we’re on the subject, I’ve just had a Back boiler removed do you think I could use the Back boiler Flue on a wood burning stove?
Back boiler flue will be “gas vent” which is class 2 liner – you need Class 1 type liner for solid fuel burners and/or condensing boilers.
househusbandFull MemberHas anyone got a wood burner in a new build that doesn’t have a chimney?
Yes; had one installed in the house we’re moving into next week – the house (bungalow) was built in ’89.
We did treat ourselves to a nice stove; it was quite possibly the hardest choice we made bearing in mind we’ve had the house stripped back and new kitchen, bathrooms fitted, redecoration, etc., etc. The stove is a Dovre Vintage 35.
Email me, address in profile, if you want to know more.
granny_ringFull MemberA mate has twin wall flue in him dorma bungalow, was easy to fit did cost around £100 per metre section tho so it soon adds up!
skiFree MemberIf you do get someone in to fit it for you, please, please check if they are HETAS registered, I know it no guarantee of a safe install but as a voluntary body they were very helpful when I was caught out by a shark builder who installed a dangerous setup in my home.
I ended up paying twice, still cheaper than having an unsupported chimney come crashing down in my living room!!
spooky_b329Full MemberWe just had our fireplace opened up (enlarged) today. They will be back to fit hearth and stove soon.
£2100 covered opening up, smoke test/sweep, hearth, £500 stove, new pot and cowl, HETAS cert etc.. The guy said as long the chimney gets a clean bill of health from the smoke test, no liner required (bungalow). I suggested whether I should have one anyway (re: controllability/efficiency of stove) and he was of the opinion that most fitters just see them as a money making add-on and it wasn’t required in many cases.
So I’m going with that and if I have any issues I’ll get one fitted afterwards.
I was seriously tempted to go DIY with council sign off, but after four months of hard labour in the garden I am happy to pay the extra £500 or so for someone to do it for me 🙂 Feel a bit guilty going for the easy option though!
tomasoFree MemberCogi gas fitter disconnected gas pipe and made safe £60
Chimney sweep and smoke test £40
Roofer next door fitted different pot top £50
Lump hammer and cold chisel were used free with my labour.
Stovax Stockton 5 £500
Flue pipe £20
Fire cement £5
Slate tiles and grout £100
Building regs £can’t remember but it wasn’t a lot
Oh and check to see if you are in a smoke control zone – you’ll need an approved stove if you are.There are probably other bits and bobs but about £800 all in. My fireplace is a 1960s one built for a coal fired back boiler and fire. It already has a hearth and the chimney is a good constructon and only serves one fireplace. It has a good draft and I get it swept every year.
A friend of mine really rates imported Bulgarian woodburners – she has a place over there and used to import them I think something like 70% of their heating is wood powered, so they must be doing something right.
TeetosugarsFree MemberAnyone put one in their shed?
I’m pretty sure Stoner & McMoonter have?
bedmakerFull MemberI suggested whether I should have one anyway (re: controllability/efficiency of stove) and he was of the opinion that most fitters just see them as a money making add-on and it wasn’t required in many cases.
I’ll connect to clay wherever possible as the clay is more robust when coal burning than steel. It is very rare to get the opportunity to make a a tar tight connection though due to the way the first clay lies at an angle/on top of a lintol/part of a throat former/ out of reach on top of a huge void.
This is assuming the clay passes a smoke pressure test too, which older ones never do ime, even when they look perfect.
So, not necessarily a scam. Good fitters will do whatever is in the best interest of the client so they are happy with their lovely new stove, if this means putting a SS liner into a chimney that appears in good condition then so be it.
As others have said above, the condition of the chimney with a stove is far more important than with an open fire. They are two completely different things.If I remember, I’ll get some pics of the boiler stove tar-fest I’m going to reline at the end of the month just so you can see what I’m on about 🙂
bedmakerFull MemberBack to the OP, yes, a really cheap stove will probably be a false economy. The Chinese cast ones you get from B+Q and ebay are pretty nasty.
I’ve fitted lots of these http://www.highlandstoves.com/index.asp?pageid=355849 as the cheapest British made, decent quality, warrantied stove I could find. £375
Very, very effective and robust enough.brFree MemberHas anyone got a wood burner in a new build that doesn’t have a chimney?
I like the convenience of newer houses but wouldn’t mind a wood burner and would be interested to know how it compares cost wise
Yep, but you also need to ensure the stove is placed away from a wall/combustables – or build up. This kinda thing:
And £1500 was about the cost of the flue…, but there is a lot of it.
jam-boFull MemberPersonally, I’m looking forward to the first ‘I can’t get my stove setup’ thread and subsequent classified ad.
epicycloFull MemberI’m disappointed bedmaker didn’t post the pic of a DIY installation…. 🙂
ianfitzFree MemberOne of the issues with very cheap stoves is that they are often inefficient. This means loading up more often and unless you have access to free wood then you’ll end up paying more for fuel in the long run
StonerFree Membergrum: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/since-were-back-into-the-wood-burning-season
And this is mine, with a cheaper, smaller portable stove.
http://www.campingsolutions.co.uk/stoves/frontier-stove/
ononeorangeFull MemberOur first quote was around £4,500 and I pretty much laughed and threw them out.
We ended up paying £2,500 including liner and stove (a Morso which itself was about £900) plus £180 for a roofer to go up and drop the liner down as I wouldn’t let the fitters anywhere near our incredibly precarious roof.
Do make sure though that you use well seasoned wood – I realised near the end of last winter that the reason it wouldn’t burn well and just sizzled and smoked was very damp wood. we now have better stuff for this year.
DickyboyFull Membercamping one looks like it takes up a lot of floor space 🙁 will be on the look out for something smaller for my garage – big double with enormous (but not quite big enough for conversion of office :() pitched roof, so I assume best thing will be to board out & insulate at ceiling level otherwise I will be heating the air above my head?
granny_ringFull MemberStoner, where did you get the rubber flue sealer thingy for the roof?
DickyboyFull Membergranny ring – they are called Decktite flashings – make sure you get the right size & temperature graded ones though – the cheaper black ones ain’t no good for flues
StonerFree Membergranny ring – as dicky boy says you can get Decktite ones or like mine the V-seal product
http://fluesystems.com/shop/V-Seal_ADSR40100.html
rated for 60-240degC
PaulioFree MemberI’ve been quoted £1,200 for everything excluding the stove. It would be about £700-£800 if I opened up the fireplace myself.
There seems to be so much choice of actual stove to get and I have no idea what makes a good one or not. That one recommended by Bedmaker a few posts up seems like a decent option though.
DickyboyFull MemberGranny ring – the place Stoner linked to are reputable, oddly enough one of the things on my to do list is to set up a site meeting with their boss next week 🙂
StonerFree Memberdickyboy – see if you can smuggle 6m of 5″ twinwall out for me 🙂
granny_ringFull MemberWant to put a small stove in the soon to be mancave.
It will have a ply roof with felt or if I can afford it, edpm covering. Those flashings would be the ones to use with twinwall flue and would I get a good enough seal on the felt/edpm?StonerFree Memberbuy the fixing kit with the flashing:
http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/V-Seal_VSK-S_Fixing_Kit.htmlit comes with enough silicon to slather between the flashing and your roof surface to seal properly.
coreFull MemberBest stove = Clearview http://www.clearviewstoves.com/
Helps that they’re just up the road, but they really are about the best.
thegreatapeFree MemberWe paid about £2000 for our stove (Woodwarm Fireview) and all the associated fittings/flue etc. (all Scheidel stuff) plus another £950 for the builder to remove the old back boiler, enlarge the fireplace, build a slate hearth and fit everything (a weeks work). I reckon if anything is worth doing or getting done properly, this is one of them.
sharkbaitFree MemberBest stove = Clearview http://www.clearviewstoves.com/
We have two of their stoves and agree completely 🙂
Well, they’re very good and get brilliant reviews but I’ve not tried any other make so comparision is not possible.soobaliasFree Memberrecently moved into a house with a woodburner, no flue liner is evident, no obvious access hatch, house is 200yrs old, no wood, nowhere to store any (yet)
do i need an axe or a chainsaw? can i order in some coal? where is the cheapest place to buy lots of layers of clothing?
having read some of the green living forum (link earlier) im absolutely shitting it as im guaranteed to die.
chimney sweep is due this afternoon – wait and see what he says.mrchrispyFull Memberhora me old chum. we need to speak.
I’m going through the motions of getting a wood burner, have a fitter comming round next week to survey the chimney.I’m assuming you are still St Retford as I havent seen your house in the classifieds 😉
horaFree MemberSt Retford? Ah yes, you live in the posher side of our area. You can only faintly hear the sirens and gunshots 😉
I’d be interested to see the quotes and who you’ll use and the workmanship. One thing I found when employing people on our house…those who give out only a mobile number and drive a non-livered van seem to be shoddy workman.
Note to binners: I don’t live in St Reford, I live in ‘Chorlton Borders’ remember 😆
binnersFull MemberI thought Chorlton Borders was Moss Side? Or do they just tell that to people who work for the BBC? 😀
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