Liteville or Nicolai
Having just got back from Nicolai and with my friend having had all the bearings in his rear and some axles replaced, I had extensive discussions with the service/maintenance encyclopaedia known as Volker. It was enlightening and showed that I had not been maintaining my bike properly!
Firstly the caps are not preload. As previously mentioned the tolerances are very tight. Sometimes too tight. The caps are intended to keep the stays from developing any side to side play and causing wear, I guess that is a kind of preload but not in the normal bearing sense.
Most people when they maintain them (which should only be remove and clean and lightly grease, perhaps replace the synthetic washers if they show signs of wear) do up the caps too loose. They should be tight. When the shock is out and the linkage at the top of its travel it should take 6kg or more (6kg is ideal) of force to move it. This does not affect sensitivity, there is much more going through it when you just sit on it and exerted by the shock.
Due to the tolerances, if you do the back end too tight, it won’t be a problem, the worst that will happen is it will slowly wear to the right torque. If you do it too loose, it will knacker the bushings/axles. Simple as that. Too tight is fine, just a little too loose is not. If you can rotate the caps after locking them with the grub screw on Helius models, it may well be too loose.
If the light rider, riding lots, at any point set them up too loose, or even just on the loose side of just right he would get rapid wear. It is surprising how tight they should be.
I don’t think this is widely communicated and certainly was the case with my friend and why he needed so much changing.
Also some of the older bushings were hydroscptic and actually got bigger with age and caused increased wear. This is now not the case with any new bushing.
Just a regular check of tightness of the caps/system is good practice to ensure long life along with removal/clean of the axles/bearings after extensive use in crappy conditions. It’s not a long job.
The new Ion bearings have some additional sealing in them too which might be cause for consideration if you ride in bad conditions alot AND.are concerned by possible bearing life issues. (Which as mentioned with proper, sensible care you should not be).
I hope that helps.
And Rik, if my Ion 29 comes in at 29.5lbs with big wheels, big tyres, big forks and a big rear shock (I know I could lose 1.5lbs no sweat with very few changes) with bullet proof parts, a high end light side of the mark build should come in at 28lbs or less no problem. With pedals, especially if you use tyres at the lighter end of the spectrum like some of the new enduro Hutchinsons.Posted 4 years ago
Great info chainline – not a bad weight on the 29er too.
Can’t find it anymore but there was a chap on mtbr or the German sites that had a very light Ion 16? He’d rawer and polished all the bits. Very tasty.
Do we think a 29lb Ion 16 650b or Am 650b is possible with dt 240/flow wheels, Pike 160mm fork, mainly XTR build Raceface carbon Sixc and turbine kit and a Reverb?Posted 4 years ago
@honourablegeorge well my bike is kinda bling and probably doesn’t stack up on the weight savings/pound/value scale. I have a stoopid light saddle which saves 1/2lb to start with ( comfortable for me but not all) running XX1, XTR brakes but with Magura Storm SL 203/180 rotors (almost 100g saved over std Simano discs, ti bolts) 15g KCNC seatclamp (surprising how much std seatclamp weighs) Raw frame which is usually 250-400g lighter than a powder coat frame, about the me as ano, the mtbr thread has a spreadsheet breakdown of parts/weights. Enve wheels help , the rims are about 100g lighter than a Flow equivalent set, but I have King/Hope hubs which aren’t the lightest. I have a Pike and a a CCDBair
I was really surprised how tight the rear should be, 6kg is quite a lot to get it to move.
I would say 29lbs is very achievable with that basis for a 650b 1×11 or light 2×10 like sixc should do it. Careful bar/stem/brake selection, use the KCNC clamp off XC racer since with a reverb you don’t need to move the post…Posted 4 years ago
Re: the Nicolai post. I’ll post it not Niolai forum too if that helps. I’ll also ask Volker if there is a recommended torque for the Helius range and rear axle pivot of Ion. For the Ion the shock and lever bolt torques are all published now. Perhaps I’ll do that too.
I could even do some tests on a frame to establish a torque for 6kg load. That might help.
Also I can get hold of tools if anyone needs them as there has been a batch made up.
Volker was also looking at a press type tool as he doesn’t like using the hammer.Posted 4 years agonicolaisamMember
* Frame, Size, & Color:AC 650b Large, Ano black and red extrasPosted 4 years ago
* Fork:Revelation 150mm RC3
* Shock, i2i, stroke 215x63mm Rockshox Monarch RC3 Plus
* Brakes:X0 Trail
* Cranks:XO 2×10 26/39
* Front Derailleur:X0
* Rear Derailleur:X0 type 2
* Stem:Truvativ T40 75mm
* Handlebar:Bonrager Carbon 750mm
* Bottom Bracket:Chris King
* Cassette:Sram PG 1070
* Chain:Sram 1070
* Grips:ESI chunky
* Front Tire:Nobby Nic 2.35
* Front Rim/ Spokes:Stans Flow EX
* Front Hub/Skewer:Bor MD7
* Rear Tire:Nobby Nic 2.35
* Rear Rim:Flow EX
* Rear Hub/Skewer:Bor MD7
* Overall Weight:29.8lbsP20Subscriber
Just an update. I’m still getting used to the Liteville. I’ve only had a brief ride on wor lasses Nicolai, but it didn’t do it for me. The liteville feels much better though still not as good as my old Yeti ASR5c…. yet…
Anyway just washed and ready to go on holidayPosted 4 years ago
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