if i could find a reasonable 165 rear hub that isnt costing a fortune then id build up a pair of those trailtechs and some nates for general usage and keep the current wheelset for when im going floating.
100mm arctic cycles on ringle rear and XT front with larry and endo combo + surly tubes = 12lbs !
I’m in Speyside, Moray so hoping to get decent time on the snow, hence why I’m fretting over rim choice, do I go for something wider for when the snow’s on the ground or narrower which should be better for most of the year. It’s Nate tyres I’ve gone for if that makes any difference.
There’s a noticeable difference in tyre width between Large Marge and Rolling Darryls. The latter haven’t stopped me having fun and they are still relatively light.
druidh – Member
There’s a noticeable difference in tyre width between Large Marge and Rolling Darryls. The latter haven’t stopped me having fun and they are still relatively light.
I think I’d be as well go for the Darryls then, it’ll stop me wanting to upgrade to a wider rim in the future at least 😉
Is there anywhere in the UK that stocks the 170mm Hope hub?
Here’s mine – it tends to get a bit dirty and stay that way…
We have a 16″ demo bike too, so if anyone is fat curious, come and have a ride. Check first though as we’re selling the 16″ off and just keeping the 18″ for now.
Keep most tyres and rims in stock too, along with hubs and building many wheels so if you want a chat about wheels or whatever gis a shout.
If it is a do-it-all wheel you can’t go wrong with 80’s. Mine have been through everything from tidal mud at Findhorn to the top of Speyside’s finest. 100mm rims are too wide for general riding, very specific to ultra soft condition riding, where float is paramount.
One thing to remember – 80mm rims might be a bit fragile for bombing down the side of conval & the likes – double wall marges might serve you better?
If you find any fatty gear in the States you need, let me know, as I can get it hand carried over 😉
Some have front suspension, but there are few compatible forks on account of the tyre width. Full sus is a bit “build your own” at the moment.
All of the single-wall rims seem to come with a warning about not being used on rocky terrain. From what I’ve seen/done myself these warnings can be taken with a pinch of salt.
Cheers for all the advice peeps, I’ll see what the budget allows as this is the biggest factor atm. I may end up going for the cheaper option to get me rolling then see what the xmas bonus is like 😉
I said it somewhere else, but I reckon if I was buying now I’d just go for a 2013 Mukluk full build and save all the fanny-ing around. It has SRAM shifters, but that’s an easy fix.
The build I’m doing will be basically the same except for the wheels. I’ll be fitting Shimano shifters and mechs. Only other thing I need is a 100mm ISIS BB for my old cranks. The rest is in the parts bin.
2013 Pugsleys complete are a good bike now with a few good upgrades been done; Microshift Thumbies (same as the Moonlander), Ultra front hub (push in spacers like Hope) and D type mech does not collect as much mud as older E types
2013 Mukluk looks good too
Both i would say equal and depends on sizing, tastes in style, steel or alloy frame.
The pugs LX rear hub will eventully need swapped out if you head for the coast or are regular swamp riding,
Mukluk freehubs (Formula) have failed too and a mate had a few issues to get another and had to go Stateside for it…
Both stock bikes are a hoot to own and ride 🙂
Only go for the Moonlander for mission specific riding, for me that is very wet soft sand, rock riding on the coast where it really shines and is a whole new level of float
You can see my fatbike shortly as I’m currently building up a 9:ZERO:7 with some old and some new parts. Might be done by tomorrow if the postie flys swift…
bruneep – Member
Anyone know of demo medium fat bikes up for sale?
I keep toying with selling mine, to fund another build (19″). I’m in Lossie if you ever want to try one.
Swavis – I have had 2x gigapipe & 2x FSA Platinum BBs on my bike. I have found that the gigapipe is the better of the two, as it can be serviced for around £24.
The FSA platinum cannot be repaired, as the bearing races are integral with the shell. It also only has 2 bearings, where the Gigapipe uses 4.