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  • LED light set – decisions?
  • Premier Icon foxyrider
    Free Member

    Right – got an old twin set lumicycle Halogens. Runtime not the greatest so I bought some Ay-Ups 2 years ago. I use the ay-ups for commuting and as a head light with the lumi's when off road (single head).

    😈 Now I just lost the ayup head unit and down to my lumi for commuting. Its OK but doesn't last too long and more importantly dies quickly if I have forgotten to charge it – not good for the road.

    Now would I be best getting the x2 kit from ayup to replace things and I therefore have a spare battery or the X4 then I would have a full kit for off roading for up to 6 hours (although I dont ride for more than 2 hours at night).

    The only trouble I already have the full kit just excludes the head unit so I would double every thing up – an additional head unit and then a head light and batter would only be £40 shy of and X4 kit 🙂

    Then there is the poss of the lumi can LED replacements….. 🙄

    Premier Icon Del
    Full Member

    dunno why you'd be looking at the ayup anymore unless you really like the arrangement for some reason. bang for buck is the dx light.

    Premier Icon TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    What lamps do you have in the lumis? You can get leds to fit with the equivalent of 30+ watt halogen with the current draw of much less than the halogen. If your lumi battery is OK I'd be tempted with that

    Premier Icon Mascy
    Free Member

    TandemJeremy – can you? Where's that then?

    Premier Icon TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Mascy – MCE kit from cutter 900 lumen theoretical so 600+ real = about a 30 w halogen for brightnesswith the current draw of 11W ish IIRC

    Or This one up to 1300 lmen ( theoretical) so the light of a 50 w halogen with much smaller current than a 50w halogen

    Premier Icon foxyrider
    Free Member

    Thats the ones I was thinking of TJ – do you have to silicone them in?

    Premier Icon TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    foxy – no but you have to make very sure there is a good path for the heat to get to the shell ( I used a 5 mm piece of alloy cut to a tight fit in the can with the LED pcb glued on with het transfer epoxy.

    – the usual lumi lens seals the front as I remeber.

    You have to watch that you have the correct circuitry – boost or buck for the battery voltage and leds you chose.

    Try candlepower forums for more detailed info

    Premier Icon foxyrider
    Free Member

    OK ta very much TJ I'll have a look over there 🙂

    Premier Icon foxyrider
    Free Member

    Hmm – I wonder if its worth the hassle though – not the worlds greatest electronic man 🙂

    Premier Icon jabilcyclist
    Free Member

    Go for one of Smudge's battery packs and chargers. Good run times on Lumi lamps and plug straight in. Could also buy one of my lamps to compliment Smudge's battery packs for a full new set.

    Premier Icon stevenmenmuir
    Free Member

    just buy a new lamp unit from Ay Up.

    Premier Icon Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    I'm sorry to be pedantic, but wattage is not current, its power. In terms of physics, this is quite an important differentiation.
    😕

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    lol, its TJ, he doesn't have to be right, he just has to have an oppinion 😛

    Premier Icon Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    I imagine at this very moment he's furiously googling to prove me wrong.
    😆

    Premier Icon TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Sorry chaps –
    What I was trying to do was to give a comparison between the LEDs and halogen but with one typo and and being badly written the post above makes no sense.

    an MCE Led is about 11 w IIRC. At 12 v thats just under an amp – and has the brightness around 600-700 lumen ( actual output)which is similar brightness to a 30 w halogen which at 12 v has a currant of 2.5 amp. So the MCE kit would give similar light but double or more run times than a 30 w halogen from the same battery

    The quad xpg led gives around the same light as a 50 w halogen and is similarly more efficient than the halogen but would not give such long run times as the mce as it draws more current

    That make more sense?

    Premier Icon poisonspider
    Free Member

    I'm not sure TJ has got this right.

    As I understand it, using the given example:

    A 30W halogen bulb with a 12V battery would indeed draw 2.5A, however to run an LED like the MCE you need a driver such as the Maxflex. This works in a completely different way.

    Power consumed by an single MCE LED is 3.5V*0.7A=2.54W
    (3.5V is the forward voltage when drawing the max forward current of 700mA, not 1A as stated)
    If you assume an average efficiency of 88%, input power is 2.54/0.88=2.88W

    At 12V that gives a supply current of 0.24A.

    Therefore the run time will be approx 10.5 times that of a halogen not double!

    I can't comment on the specifics of halogen vs LED brightness comparisons but I would expect a quad XP-G to be WAY brighter than 50W halogen.

    Incidently, the quad XP-G at full tilt (1A) would be WAY WAY brighter than the single MCE, but as TJ says wouldn't last as long, in fact if I've worked it out right only a 5th of the time.

    Premier Icon Trailseeker
    Free Member

    But MCE has 4 dies though, so your 0.24A needs to be multiplied by 4 to give the correct power consumed.

    Premier Icon poisonspider
    Free Member

    Just checked the Cree datasheet for the MCE, you are quiet right Trailseeker, I stand corrected.

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