After research and deliberation, I think I’m going to go 1×10 on my Bfe 26″ build. Currently running a 3×9 on my OnOne 456 and never seem to be out of the middle ring on a 32 and 11/32 setup. I do very little road-to-trail riding and I think it looks neater, less clutter, less clatter and less to go wrong.
I’m thinking 34 upfront and 11-36 at the back. Not too bothered about spinning out going downhill on fireroads etc, i’ll let gravity help with that and freewheel. I do want to be able to tackle climbs though.

I have a question before I hit ‘checkout’.

Currently have a Shimano XT Crankset running 3×9. Am I correct in saying that I can just swap out the chainrings on this to narrow/wide ring with the same 104mm BCD?

These are the parts I’ve gone for; Will I die?
Hope Narrow/Wide Chainring
Shimano Zee 10sp Shifter
Shimano XT M771 Casette
Shimano Zee Shadow+ Rear Mech wide ratio
SRAM PPC1051 10 Spd Chain

As always, I appreciate your varied feedback 🙂

I have just swapped a 3×10 chainring set up (slx) with a 32t single narrow wide raceface ring. Seems to work ok. This is on a 456C .

You might need some single ring chainring bolts because the bolts you have go through 2 chainrings at the moment. Or pack it out with washers or a bash guard

I did this on my old bike when i went 1x with an xt crank. Although i started with a 32t and a hope 40t but the force is weak with me

Can I suggest that if you’re going to use the BFe for stupidity you might also want a chain device? I use one on mine and for the tiny bit of extra weight it’s worth it to know that the chain won’t come off. I did a DH last year on a different-but-similar HT with a narrow/wide ring and a Stinger type chain device and still lost the chain on a rocky bit so I went belt and braces with one of these-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RSP-Downhill-Chain-Device-Black-ISCG05-/162222735708?hash=item25c53a815c:g:YoAAAOSwzaJX7l5x

on my BFe.

You might need some single ring chainring bolts because the bolts you have go through 2 chainrings at the moment.

Yes, I did this too.

34-36 doesn’t give you an easy gear for the climbs. I’ve got a similar set up with a 32 chainring and some of the local climbs can be v tough. Depends where you are I guess.

Given there’s not really any disadvantage why not go for a Sunrace 11-40 or 11-42 cassette ?
I put one on my Five last week & it shifts just as well as the 11-36 XT one that came off.
At least you’ll get a bail-out gear, should you ever need it.

why not go for a Sunrace 11-40 or 11-42 cassette ?

This. I did the same last week (sunrise 11-42) and shifting seems fine with an X9 clutch mech out back

If you’re buying all those bits why not go 11 speed? You’ll get more range on the cassette

richwales –
If you’re buying all those bits why not go 11 speed? You’ll get more range on the cassette

Only reason I suppose was weight. I could go 1×11 if you think it would be better. Although the 11 speed looks a little more expensive.

Thanks for the heads-up on the chain ring bolts. 🙂

Thanks for the advice. I’m swaying to 32 and 11-42 now with a bash plate. I might wait on the bash to make sure 32 is the best fit for me.

Can I suggest that if you’re going to use the BFe for stupidity you might also want a chain device? I use one on mine and for the tiny bit of extra weight it’s worth it to know that the chain won’t come off. I did a DH last year on a different-but-similar HT with a narrow/wide ring and a Stinger type chain device and still lost the chain on a rocky bit so I went belt and braces with one of these-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RSP-Downhill-Chain-Device-Black-ISCG05-/162222735708?hash=item25c53a815c:g:YoAAAOSwzaJX7l5x

on my BFe.

I was under the impression that with the shadow+ mechs that this wasn’t needed. Am I wrong? I don’t mind adding one though.

If you email me your address I’ll post you some spacers, to use the std chainring bolts. I had some made at work. 😉

takisawa2 – Member
If you email me your address I’ll post you some spacers, to use the std chainring bolts. I had some made at work.

Thank you!

With narrow wide and a clutch mech most people don’t need a chain device, although i think hardtails have a harder time of it and the Bfe is a bit of a hooligan bike. I’d try it without and get one if its a problem, if you get one and didn’t need it you’d never know. I initially didn’t have a nw chainring and lost the chain all the time even with a clutch mech, i was surprised how much difference it made, never needed a chain device. New bike came with one which i’m planning to remove as soon as i can get the cranks off!

pnik – cheers. Yes I’ll stick one on I think if it becomes an issue.

I was under the impression that with the shadow+ mechs that this wasn’t needed. Am I wrong? I don’t mind adding one though.

I don’t know. I just put one on because I use mine for local DHs and didn’t like the idea of a crap time or a DNF because I lost the chain. Knowing that something can’t happen is better than hoping it won’t!

If you’re not going 11speed but going to run 11-42 on the rear then i suggest you get an 11 speed mech as it will cope with the extra range of the cassette much better.
Some people will probably tell you that it won’t work but it definitely does as it’s what I run on one of my bike’s.

If you’re currently not needing anything smaller ratio than the 32/32 you have on the on one, I don’t see where you would require a 11-42 as others have said.

34 with a 11-36 gives a decent balance of gears at the speedy end vs a usable low gear. Lower than you currently have and you seem to cope fine with that.

Make sure you chain is the right length and the clutch is adjusted to suit your terrain and you shouldnt need a guide.

These cost pennies and you can use your existing chain ring bolts. Sorry can’t remember the exact dimensions. Just take a chain ring bolt to a decent trade supplier/tool shop and buy some extras for use in the future.

As a bonus the pressure from the washer being split puts tension on the nut making them easier to tighten up.

As already said 34-36 will be tough going, 32-40 as a bare minimum I’d say.

I’ve not dropped a chain in three years with a NW chainring on my hardtail. I’ve also a Shadow+ clutch mech but that makes little difference as sometimes I forget to set it to on. I broke my cranks the day before an event so bodged a 1x setup by using a triple chainring from another bike – the chain would come off on even moderately rough terrain, the clutch mech did help in this instance though.

Sooo much to consider. 🙁

On a 26″, 32t with 11-36 should be all the gears you need.

Selling an SLX shifter which is nicer than Zee 😉

No chain device for me either, but I’ve only had two rides so far, so I’m keeping an open mind.
I’m running a 11-34 rear cassette with 32t at the front, but although there are some steep hills around the Kent Downs, they don’t go on for ever, so it’s manageable.

Have you considered SRAM NX 11 speed

Very happy with mine

The cassettes are available cheap from decathlon at the moment

Make sure you chain is the right length and the clutch is adjusted to suit your terrain and you shouldnt need a guide.

Not a pop at you lovewookie or others who are saying that you shouldn’t need a guide, but surely knowing the chain can’t come off is better than having to adjust stuff and hope it might not? Like praying for good exam results instead of revising. Surely? No? Just me?

Ive put SRAM NX 1×11 on my new HT build.

Works really nicely with superstar N/W oval 32T chainring and shimano 11-42 cassette.

No chain device needed but I’m not a full on hooligan.

I used the race face bolt spaces as they were similar price to shorter bolts and look a bit neater as the match up with the spider ends nicely.

I’d certainly be tempted by 1×11 if you’re buying the lot – the SLX stuff looks great value

IF not, I’d maybe consider a different mech to the zee – if you wanted to fit a range expander or w bigger cassette at some point, other mechs like SLX or XT cope better.

@kayla1 Well you should be shortening your chain to the right length anyway, chain guide or not. IME the clutch mech is more use with non-NW chainrings, I’ve one bike with a clutch mech and one with a non-clutch, not dropped a chain even on alpine stuff. I’m no DH hooligan though.

I’m trying to remember if any of those I ride with or those I know who have 1x drivetrains have chain guides and I don’t think any of them do. Then again I’m not noting things down in a spreadsheet 😳 so just going on memory.

The set up the OP describes will work fine, I have 2 hardtails built with the following:-

26″ Orange Crush, Zee rear mech, SLX shifter, 11-36 cassette, 34T chainring, no guide. Ride mostly Cannock (I’m a local so not confined to the trail centre) and not had a problem losing my chain.

Other bike is:-
27.5″ Stanton Switchbcak, XT rear mech, XT shifter, 11-36 cassette, 32T chainring, E13 LG1+ (only got the top guide fitted). I use this bike the most. Races an Enduro at Afan with no guide and dropped the cahin on a stage. Never again, so fitted a guide (so totally agree with Kayla1’s comments). This bike gets ridden everywhere and has a much harder time than the Orange.

I’d at least get a simple top guide, especially if you want to race/ride rocky fast stuff else you will lose your chain at some point.

Well you should be shortening your chain to the right length anyway, chain guide or not.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBo8O34kwL0[/video]

Soz, couldn’t resist… 😆

ssboggy – Member
If you’re not going 11speed but going to run 11-42 on the rear then i suggest you get an 11 speed mech as it will cope with the extra range of the cassette much better.
Some people will probably tell you that it won’t work but it definitely does as it’s what I run on one of my bike’s.

Anyone else suffered with 10 speed mech on a 11-42 casette?

I think I’m going to stick with 10 speed, only because the parts are a little cheaper.

The thing about chainguides and narrow wides etc is that a narrow-wide and a clutch mech combined, is basically almost as reliable as a full on downhill chainguide- and what it loses out on reliability, it gains on ease, if the chain ever does come off you can just throw it back on. With a guide, if it comes off it’s usually a bastard to get it back on. So most people are happy with just the chainring.

But if you want absolute belt-and-braces you can add a little guide and it’ll be better than anything you could do a few years back. I have a tiny little Shovel guide, it’s top-only and weighs nothing, and doesn’t interfere with the chain at all- no friction, no noise. But I’ve never had the chain come off with it, even while crashing (most times when teh chain came off with no device, it was either mid-crash or while manhandling the bike- lifting it over fences etc)

The only bummer is, these little guides are expensive because they’re quite a new thing.

I’ve the Sunrace 11-42 cassette on my fat bike with a standard medium cage mech. No had any problems.

does that little shovel guide manage OK with an Oval, NW?

Yup- I’ve got a 32T oval (er, I think) with it.

less to go wrong

Not in my experience. You have fewer components, but those components are more likely to go wrong, was my experience of Sram Rival 1×11.

But I may have been unlucky.

Also, I wanted to add a front mech to get access to really low gears off road, so I guess it was never for me really.

Rohloff on order.